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Bandsaw manuals Need a source of bearings for lower blade guide

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6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: clark 6x4 bandsaw

there should be an adjustment knob on the back that changes the angle of the top wheel and this will center the blade so it stays on. I do this by jogging the saw on and off while I adjust it. hope this helps you

Posted on Sep 24, 2009

  • 33 Answers

SOURCE: need lower guide pins for my Dayton 14" bandsaw

graingers carries some repair/replacement parts for this model.

Posted on Dec 06, 2009

  • 172 Answers

SOURCE: I broke the lower blade guide

All I could find out is that your skil bandsaw is made by the Bosch Bench tool co in Mount Prospect, Il. The owners manual from skil shows the part you need as #6 lower blade guide, and Lowes does handle this line of Skil. I would suggest contacying Lowes or the store you bought this from and getting the consumer help phone number from them. They have to have this part available as I am seeing a lot of these units refurbished, so someone has the parts to them. Hope this helps and good luck. Marvin

Posted on Jan 20, 2010

efs_perpends
  • 1996 Answers

SOURCE: I have an old rockwell 14" bandsaw and am having

Follow these instructions, but before adjusting the guides see the link below.
It sounds like you have not correctly adjusted the guide blocks that ride on either side of the blade, both above and below the table. These small rectangular blocks can be adjusted by loosening the allen set screw in the guide that holds them in place. They should be pressed in against the blade lightly, without deflecting the path of the blade out of square to the table. (You may first have to sand the ends of the guide blocks square if they are grooved from use. Use a belt sander and a pair of vise grips to hold the blocks while you square them off.) Anyway, the guide blocks should allow the blade to run smoothly, (you might hear a tick tick of the weld passing through the blocks), but will not allow the blade to deflect from side to side. Correctly adjusted, they keep the blade aligned with the bearing behind it, and prevent the problem you describe.
Only after you have correctly adjusted these guides just behind the set of the teeth, and the blade is turning freely by hand when you spin the upper wheel, do you bring the bearings in to kiss the back edge of the blade. Make sure the bearings are lubed to spin freely with a little bearing lube or wd40, then bring both the uppper and lower bearings in until they almost spin or just barely spin when the blade is turned by hand. When you exert a little pressure during cutting they will then hold the blade in place between the guide blocks, so the blocks don't wear the teeth away. Please see this link for detailed instructions I gave another user. (possibly also here) They will apply to your saw as well. If you have any questions or further probelms, write back. You may also wish to check here for a pdf manual for your saw.(check both rockwell and delta).
If you take some care to properly tune the saw, you will get much beter cuts and the saw will be a joy to use.

Posted on Nov 26, 2010

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What is the procedure of putting a new blade in a shopsmith scroll saw?


for more info please see the owners manual here: http://www.shopsmith.com/ownersite/manuals/845539.pdf and view page 31 -32


  1. Slide the new blade into position, working it up through the table slot, around the guard, and onto the wheels, as seen in Fig. B-26. The teeth must be pointing down and toward the front of the Bandsaw (and toward you). Position the blade approximately in the center of the rubber tires and in between the guide blocks.
  2. Check the tension scale alignment. With the blade slack on the wheels, the red indicator bar should be parallel to the left edge of the tension scale. If this is not the case, follow the alignment procedure described in Alignment section. Fig. B-26 Fig. B-27
  3. Tension the blade, turning the blade tensioning screw clockwise, as demonstrated in Fig. B-27. Notice that as you turn this screw, the red indicator bar moves, because it is actually the flat spring that tensions the blade. The blade tension is properly set when the edge of the bar disappears behind the scale at the marking for the blade width you're using. On a few operations, such as sawing thick stock with a thin blade, it may be necessary to increase the blade tension slightly beyond the normal setting. However, this increased tension will shorten the life of your blade. Always remember to reset the tension screw when you no longer need extra tension
  4. After you've spun the blade several times by hand, it should be centered on the three roller bearings, indicated in Figs. B-29 and B-30. The back of the blade should rest against the auto-track roller bearing and the lower blade guide roller bearing, and it should be no more than 1/64" away from the upper blade guide roller bearing. If the blade is not properly positioned on the bearings, follow the procedure described in "Adjusting Roller Bearings" in the Alignment section.

Jan 18, 2016 | Blade Saws

1 Answer

I have an old rockwell 14" bandsaw and am having


Follow these instructions, but before adjusting the guides see the link below.
It sounds like you have not correctly adjusted the guide blocks that ride on either side of the blade, both above and below the table. These small rectangular blocks can be adjusted by loosening the allen set screw in the guide that holds them in place. They should be pressed in against the blade lightly, without deflecting the path of the blade out of square to the table. (You may first have to sand the ends of the guide blocks square if they are grooved from use. Use a belt sander and a pair of vise grips to hold the blocks while you square them off.) Anyway, the guide blocks should allow the blade to run smoothly, (you might hear a tick tick of the weld passing through the blocks), but will not allow the blade to deflect from side to side. Correctly adjusted, they keep the blade aligned with the bearing behind it, and prevent the problem you describe.
Only after you have correctly adjusted these guides just behind the set of the teeth, and the blade is turning freely by hand when you spin the upper wheel, do you bring the bearings in to kiss the back edge of the blade. Make sure the bearings are lubed to spin freely with a little bearing lube or wd40, then bring both the uppper and lower bearings in until they almost spin or just barely spin when the blade is turned by hand. When you exert a little pressure during cutting they will then hold the blade in place between the guide blocks, so the blocks don't wear the teeth away. Please see this link for detailed instructions I gave another user. (possibly also here) They will apply to your saw as well. If you have any questions or further probelms, write back. You may also wish to check here for a pdf manual for your saw.(check both rockwell and delta).
If you take some care to properly tune the saw, you will get much beter cuts and the saw will be a joy to use.

Nov 26, 2010 | Delta Woodworking Delta Rockwell 14 Inch...

1 Answer

Need a manual for a sears/craftsman model #103.24300 bandsaw


Any particular reason? If general settings problem, please follow this advice:

Brand of bandsaw is of no importance, problem is... I assume that problem is with regulation of the blade motion. Please follow these instructions, I posted them previously for another member, they apply to any bandsaw in existence, regardless of brand, manufacture, age or look...

I love bandsaws, they are one of best and most universal woodworking machines, used as well in food and metal industries.

Now, what you should know about bandsaw that it have several points of regulations and all of them must be adjusted correctly. Basic "anatomy" of bandsaw is that it have body, in it there is housed driving wheel (bottom) and tension wheel (top), both of these are protected by rubber "tyre" usually crowned, that allow for better self adjustment and protect teeth on the band.

Switch machine off and remove power plug from the socket.

Start with tension, open covers, retract top (above the table) and bottom (below the table) guides so blade is not touching the rear bearing or side slides.

1. rotate top wheel and see where blade is wandering, regulate tension and tilt on the wheel till band position itself on the centre of the top wheel, is rotating freely without wandering, and cuttin edge is off the wheel or rubber and do not touch the wheel or raiser.
2. cut strip of paper and slide top guide towards the blade till bearing touch blade through the paper (paper thickness is about correct distance of bearing to the blade), allowing paper to be slided out without tension. lock bearing guide in.
3. insert paper on internal side of the blade and slide internal slide guide block till you can only pull the paper out, lock the slider.
4. repeat previous (3) operation on external guide block and after you slide paper out, lock it in position as well.
5. manually rotate the tension wheel, should operate freely, without wandering, without touching bearing or side slides.
6. repeat step 2 to 5 on the bottom guide
7. close the covers
8. adjust hight of the top guide suitable to cut , allowing about 2 finger breaths above the cut piece.
9. connect power, switch on the bandsaw and switch off, after it stop, check for tension, switch on and make test cut.

This general rule applies to all bandsaw, regardless of brand, make, vintage. Do remember that this is not a toy, it will cut through, wood, metal and your fingers...

Do remember, that these operations must be performed every time when you change the blade, do not forget to use bit of silicone or teflon spray if you cut very sappy or green wood, do not press and force, allow blade to slide and cut, use protection screen and googles, you have only two eyes and there are no spares...

If you have problem with your bandsaw, not related to adjustments, please do not hesitate to ask further questions, let us know how you get along with this info.

Aug 15, 2010 | Craftsman Saws

1 Answer

Sorry as i have extremely little amount of info on this machine (not mine ) i said i would fix it for her it is a 3 wheeled machiene made by rexon i asked for the model & was told all she could find...


Brand of bandsaw is of no importance, problem is... You did not stated what is exactly the problem, I assume therefore tha tproblem is with regulation of the blade motion. Please follow these instructions, I posted them previously for another member, they apply to any bandsaw in existence, regardless of brand, manufacture, age or look...

I love bandsaws, they are one of best and most universal woodworking machines, used as well in food and metal industries.

Now, what you should know about bandsaw that it have several points of regulations and all of them must be adjusted correctly. Basic "anatomy" of bandsaw is that it have body, in it there is driving wheel (bottom) and tension wheel (top), both of these are protected by rubber "tyre" usually crowned, that allow for better self adjustment and protect teeth on the band.

Switch machine off and remove power plug from the socket.

Start with tension, open covers, retract top (above the table) and bottom (below the table) guides so blade is not touching the rear bearing or side slides.

1. rotate top wheel and see where blade is wandering, regulate tension and tilt on the wheel till band position itself on the centre of the top wheel, is rotating freely without wandering, and cuttin edge is off the wheel or rubber and do not touch the wheel or raiser.
2. cut strip of paper and slide top guide towards the blade till bearing touch blade through the paper (paper thickness is about correct distance of bearing to the blade), allowing paper to be slided out without tension. lock bearing guide in.
3. insert paper on internal side of the blade and slide internal slide guide block till you can only pull the paper out, lock the slider.
4. repeat previous (3) operation on external guide block and after you slide paper out, lock it in position as well.
5. manually rotate the tension wheel, should operate freely, without wandering, without touching bearing or side slides.
6. repeat step 2 to 5 on the bottom guide
7. close the covers
8. adjust hight of the top guide suitable to cut , allowing about 2 finger breaths above the cut piece.
9. connect power, switch on the bandsaw and switch off, after it stop, check for tension, switch on and make test cut.

This general rule applies to all bandsaw, regardless of brand, make, vintage. Do remember that this is not a toy, it will cut through, wood, metal and your fingers...

Do remember, that these operations must be performed every time when you change the blade, do not forget to use bit of silicone or teflon spray if you cut very sappy or green wood, do not press and force, allow blade to slide and cut, use protection screen and googles, you have only two eyes and there are no spares...

If you still have some trouble with your bandsaw, please do not hesitate to ask further questions, let us know how you get along with this info.

Aug 13, 2010 | Saws

1 Answer

I cannot get the blade to track correctly on my JET 12" band saw. What could be wrong? I have done exactly what the manual says to do. I am not sure the square box on the outside is fitting. The little arm...


i love bandsaws, they are one of best and most universal woodworking machines, used as well in food and metal industries.

now, what you should know about bandsaw that it have several points of regulations and all of them must be adjusted correctly. basic "anatomy" of bandsaw is that it have body, in it there is driving wheel (bottom) and tension wheel (top), both of these are protected by rubber "tyre" usually crowned, that allow for bette adjustment and protect teeth on the band.

start with tension, open covers, retract top (above the table) and bottom (below the table) guides so blade is not touching the rear bearing or side slides.

1. rotate top wheel and see where blade is wandering, regulate tension and tilt on the wheel till band position itself on the centre of the top wheel and cuttin edge is off the wheel or rubber and do not touch the wheel or raiser.
2. cut strip of paper and slide top guide towards the blade till bearing touch blade through the paper (paper thickness is about correct distance of bearing to the blade), allowing paper to be slided out without tension. lock it in.
3. insert paper on internal side of the blade and slide internal slide guide block till you can only pull the paper out, lock the slider.
4. repeat previous operation on external guide block and after you slide paper out, lock it in position.
5. manually rotate the tension wheel, should operate freely, without wandering
6. repeat step 2 to 5 on the bottom guide
7. close the covers
8. adjust hight of the guide suitable to cut , allowing about 2 finger breaths above the cut piece.
9. switch on the bandsaw and switch off, after it stop, check for tension, switch on and make test cut.

this general rule applies to all bandsaw, regardless of brand, make, vintage. do remember that this is not a toy, it will cut through, wood, metal and your fingers...

do remember, that these operations must be performed every time when you change the blade, to not forget to use bit of silicone or teflon spray if you cut very sappy or green wood, do not press and force, use protection screen and googles, you have only two eyes and there are no spares...

Jul 30, 2010 | Jet JWBS-16B 708749B 16-inch Bandsaw

1 Answer

I have a 12" Sears - Craftsman - Band Saw and the blade keeps coming off. How do I install a new blade and keep it on?


Two potential issues here:

a.) You probably need to align your bandsaw wheels. Here's a link to a craftsman 12" bandsaw manual. Assuming you have model 113243310, 113243311, 113243300, or a similar model, read over page 12-14 "Installing the blade". Specifically, look at section 10 about adjusting the tracking.

Having the blade guides set properly is important too. A thrust bearing (the one up top, behind the blade) that's set too far forward can push the blade off the wheels too.

b.) If it's flat out too loose and you can't get it tight, the blade might be too long. It's worth double checking your manual to confirm you are supposed to be using an 80" blade and double checking the blade package to make sure you actually have an 80" blade.

Jun 14, 2010 | Craftsman 12 x 80" Band Saw Blade 6 tpi...

1 Answer

I broke the lower blade guide - a die cast piece that holds the blade guide bearings. It appears that Skil does not carry replacement parts


All I could find out is that your skil bandsaw is made by the Bosch Bench tool co in Mount Prospect, Il. The owners manual from skil shows the part you need as #6 lower blade guide, and Lowes does handle this line of Skil. I would suggest contacying Lowes or the store you bought this from and getting the consumer help phone number from them. They have to have this part available as I am seeing a lot of these units refurbished, so someone has the parts to them. Hope this helps and good luck. Marvin

Jan 19, 2010 | Skil 3385-01-RT Factory-Reconditioned 9"...

1 Answer

Clark 6x4 bandsaw


there should be an adjustment knob on the back that changes the angle of the top wheel and this will center the blade so it stays on. I do this by jogging the saw on and off while I adjust it. hope this helps you

Sep 23, 2009 | Grizzly Saws

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