Question about Philips 27PT543S 27" TV

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Disconnecting TV anode

Now that I have discharged the CRT, how do you remove the red HV anode lead and rubber cup from the back of the tv?.  Do you lift it off or pull it horizontally or perhaps squeeze the rubber coated clip on the top of the rubber cup.  I don;t want to tug too hard for fear of breaking the leads coming off the tube.
thanks

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First pull the rubber up then push one side of the pin in and pull up lightly n then do the same thing on the other side n u can get it out. good  luck

Posted on Oct 27, 2007

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Discharging a RCA tv model #F32665 I cut the red wire and forgot to discharge the tv (got a shock) is there a way to still discharge the tv so it can be scraped?


You've done a mistake that might me fatal indeed. There will be charge hold in the CRT even though the set is switched off, and will retain for a long time. You must have to discharge the final anode before remove the anode cap. To do this, connect one end of the multimeter probe to the tuner cover or at any ground chassis. Slowly insert the other end of the probe, by the side of the rubber boot at the final anode. The charge hold will discharge through the wire to ground. Hold it for at least 10 seconds. Now it will be safe to handle.

Aug 27, 2012 | RCA F32665 32" TV

Tip

How to diagnose and repair Projection TV High Voltage Problems.


Your TV is dead or perhaps the turn on relay clicks and immediately clicks again, followed by your standby light blinking a specific code. For each TV the code is different. To find out your code google "(your brand name) error codes". This should return the listing of codes for your unit. Check the code to see if it is the high voltage section with the problem.

The hardest working section of any TV is the high voltage section. This does not apply to flat screens and DLPs only CRT projection units and conventional direct view units. The flyback gets hot and is made of many windings of very thin copper wire which is only shellacked to insulate it. Over time the windings coating will break down and the windings will short together. This can happen in as little as several years. Once shorted, there is less resistance, and the current being pushed through the flyback increases. This overloads the Horizontal Output Transistor which gets hot and fails. This in turn causes the low voltage power supply to detect the overload and not allow the unit to start up, also sending the appropriate error code blinks.

The flyback is generally near the rear of the unit and is cylindrical with a large rubber wire, or wires, if a projection set, coming out of it and going to a rubber cup on the CRT or CRTs if projection. Near the flyback will be a large heat sink with a large transistor mounted to it. With the set unplugged check the large transistor or HOT, with a DMM on diode scale for resistance. The leads of the HOT should be marked on the circuit board (C= collector, B=base,E=emittter). If the HOT has 0 resistance between all the leads it is shorted and you need to replace both it and the flyback. If it is good it will have infinite resistance one way and 400 to 700 ohms with the leads reversed between either the base/emitter or the base/collector. In circuit tests between the collector and emitter will show a short because you are reading through the flyback transformer winding. You would have to take the HOT out of the circuit to test this double junction but if the other two junctions test as I have listed them, odds are the transistor is good. If all junctions test shorted the HOT is bad and needs replaced.

You should be able to obtain both parts, if you need both, at http://www.encompass.com or http://www.shopjimmy.com . Unsolder both parts and remove them from the board. This will require a large soldering iron, solder wick and a solder ******. Be careful not to damage the board. When installing the new HOT be sure to clean off the heat sink and apply new heat sink compound, if the old HOT was mounted with heat sink compound (not all transistors are), available from the parts supplier. The flyback also will have two additional wires to remove and replace. One goes to the CRT board and may plug into a plastic box on the CRT jack or be soldered into the board depending on the model. This process should be self explanatory if you study it a while.

Depending on whether you have a projection TV or a Direct View TV the procedure is a little different. I will describe the procedure for a direct view TV first.

The 2nd anode lead (large red rubber wire going to the CRT) is plugged into the CRT and may have 48 kilo volts on it! Discharge the potential to the ground strap (bare wire going around the CRT) using an insulated screwdriver and a wire with gator clips on each end. Clip one end of the wire to the ground strap around the CRT and the other to the screwdriver. Slide the tip of the screwdriver carefully under the boot on the CRT where the 2nd anode is attached. If the CRT was storing power there will be a spark and loud snap when you make contact. Once discharged the tube is safe. Pull back the rubber boot and remove the wire from the hole in the tube. Install the new flyback wire. Solder the new flyback to the board reassemble everything and turn on. If you were successful the unit will start. You will need to set the focus and screen drive using the two potentiometers on the back of the flyback. Top is focus, bottom screen drive. Turn up the screen drive to get a picture. Tune to a channel with text. Turn focus to get the sharpest image. Generally even if you have bad vision you can focus the set by making the image pixels stand out. If you tune through the range of focus you will see what I mean. Tune to a channel which has both black and white in large amounts. Turn up screen drive until the black just begins to light up or starts looking gray then back it off slightly and you should be done with the unit. Be careful while adjusting the flyback as the set will have lethal voltages in it.

Now for the flyback on a projection TV. It will have 4 large rubber wires coming out of it. If the new one came with wires they should be removed at the HV divider block (located at the front of the set normally, just follow the wires to their end) if not they should be removed at the flyback. To remove at the flyback, which is the most common hookup, slide the rubber boot off the post and using needle nose pliers pry the cable out. It should have a bare end which connects to a clip at the bottom of the new unit. Do them one at a time to avoid getting them wrong. When done you will have to adjust the focus and screen drive but it will be on a separate box called the HV divider block usually near the front of the unit behind the grill. Same process as listed above for the direct view set except there are three contols for focus and three for screen drive (red,green,blue). If your unit still does not run you may also have to replace the HV divider block. All safety rules apply here also.

That should conclude the repair and if successful your set will work. If the unit still does not work go to my tip on troubleshooting at http://www.fixya.com/support/r4425277-basic_direct_view_tv_troubleshooting which explains the basic troubleshooting method to find any problems in standard televisions.

Thanks for using FixYa and for the great rating.

hardrocko

on May 23, 2010 | Televison & Video

Tip

Diagnosing and repair of TV High Voltage problems.


Your TV is dead or perhaps the turn on relay clicks and immediately clicks again, followed by your standby light blinking a specific code. For each TV the code is different. To find out your code google "(your brand name) error codes". This should return the listing of codes for your unit. Check the code to see if it is the high voltage section with the problem.

The hardest working section of any TV is the high voltage section. This does not apply to flat screens and DLPs only CRT projection units and conventional direct view units. The flyback get hot and is made of many windings of very thin wire which is only shellaced to insulate it. Over time the windings coating breaks down and the windings short together. This can happen in as little as several years. Once shorted there is less resistance and the current being pushed through the flyback increases. This overloads the Horizontal Output Transistor which gets hot and fails. This in turn causes the low voltage power supply to detect the overload and not allow the unit to start up, giving you the error code blinks.

The flyback is generally near the rear of the unit and is cylindrical with large rubber wire or wires if projection coming out of it and going to a rubber cup on the CRT or CRTs. Near the flyback will be a large heat sink with a large transistor mounted to it. With the set unplugged check the HOT with a DMM on diode scale for resistance. The leads of the HOT should be marked on the circuit board (C= collector, B=base,E=emittter). If the HOT has 0 resistance between all the leads it is shorted and you need to replace both it and the flyback.

You should be able to obtain both parts at http://www.encompass.com or http://www.shopjimmy.com . Unsolder both parts and remove from the board. When installing the new HOT be sure to clean off the heat sink and apply new heat sink compound available from the parts supplier. The flyback also will have two additional wires to remove and replace. One goes to the CRT board and may plug into a plastic box on the CRT jack or be soldered into the board depending on the model. This process should be self explanatory if you study it a while.

Depending on whether you have a projection TV or a Direct View TV the procedure is a little different. I will describe the procedure for a direct view TV first.

The 2nd anode lead (large red rubber wire going to the CRT) is plugged into the CRT and may have 48 kilo volts on it! Discharge the potential to the ground strap (bare wire going around the CRT) using an insulated screwdriver and a wire with gator clips on each end. If the CRT was storing power there will be a spark and loud snap when you make contact. Once discharged the tube is safe. Pull back the rubber boot and remove the wire from the hole in the tube. Install the new flyback wire. Solder the new flyback to the board reassemble everything and turn on. If you were successful the unit will start. You will need to set the focus and screen drive using the two potentiometers on the back of the flyback. Top is focus, bottom screen drive. Turn up the screen drive to get a picture. Tune to a channel with text. Turn focus to get the sharpest image. Tune to a channel which has both black and white in large amounts. Turn up screen drive until the black just begins to light up or starts looking gray then back it off slightly and you should be done with the unit. Be careful while adjusting the flyback as the set will have lethal voltages in it.

Now for the flyback on a projection TV. It will have 4 large rubber wires coming out of it. If the new one came with wires they should be removed at the HV divider block (located at the front of the set normally, just follow the wires to their end) if not they should be removed at the flyback. To remove at the flyback, which is the most common hookup, slide the rubber boot off the post and using needle nose pliers pry the cable out. It should have a bare end which connects to a clip at the bottom of the new unit. Do them one at a time to avoid getting them wrong. When done you may have to adjust the focus and screen drive but it will be on a separate box called the HV divider block usually near the front of the unit behind the grill. Same process as listed above for the direct view set. If your unit still does not run you may also have to replace the HV divider block. All safety rules apply here also.

That should conclude the repair and if successful your set will work. If the unit still does not work go to my tip on troubleshooting at http://www.fixya.com/support/r4425277-basic_direct_view_tv_troubleshooting which explains the basic troubleshooting method to find any problems in standard televisions.

Thanks for using FixYa.

hardrocko

on May 23, 2010 | Televison & Video

1 Answer

RCA D52W20 has no anode cap (Discharge how)


On end of the red wire from the flyback to the top center of your CRT (picture tube) there is an anode cap. Get a wire clip and a long screw driver that has an insulated handle. Attach one end of clip wire to known ground on TV chassis and the other end to the screwdriver. Now carefully slide tip of screwdriver under the anode cap. You should hear a little snap. Now the CRT is discharged.

Good Luck, Big Irish.

Nov 22, 2009 | RCA D52W20 52" Rear Projection HDTV-Ready...

1 Answer

Set will often have problems starting back up


you have a high voltage arching problem. the crt has about 33000. (thirty three thousand) volts on it. the anode lead is arching to the chassis(ground) around the crt(picture tube). the anode lead is the big red wire on the very top of back of crt. with the back off, you will see the big red wire and it will have a suction cup about 4 inches round connecting to picture tube. unplug. silicone around suction cup. let dry for 24 hours. enjoy. you might get a little shocked even when unplugged, but wont hurt you.

Nov 12, 2009 | RCA MM36100 36" TV

1 Answer

How do I replace the TV tube in my Sony Wega 36" flat screen?


Hello jmdady,

First I would like to say that this procedure is dangerous, and should only be done by a qualified Television Technician.

With that being said here is how I would do it:

1) unplug TV and remove the back panel of the TV set.

2) discharge the anode voltage of the CRT by using a screwdriver attached to a clip lead which is attached to the ground of the TV.

3) Remove the chassis of the TV as per the instructions found in the service data (you will need to buy the schematic diagram and the service data sheets for this set)

4) with the chassis removed and the HV anode removed from the CRT, lay the TV face down on a soft surface (a folded towel or a large foam pad).

5) Remove the yoke transformer and the convergence rings by releasing the holder ring and slowly moving the assembly up on the neck of the CRT until the whole assembly is free.

6) Unscrew the 4 retaining brackets and remove the retaining assembly from around the tube (this includes the grounding straps

7) Once the retaining assembly is removed, pick the tube up by the sides (DO NOT USE THE NECK OF THE TUBE TO LIFT THE TUBE UP).

8) Once the old tube is out, put the new tube in its place.

9) Reinstall the retaining brackets and the grounding strap and screw the assembly back in place.

10) put the yoke transformer back on to the set, using the same spacers and mounting equipment but do not tighten the holder ring (you will need the yoke and color rings to the loose to adjust purity and convergence)

11) Reinstall the chassis as per the schematic, reconnect the HV anode, the CRT board, and the connections to the Yoke Transformer

12) At this point you will need a color pattern/bar generator, a mirror, and a lot of patience because you will need to adjust the yoke on the TV and adjust color purity, and convergence (Read the schematic as to the recommended signal levels, and patterns to use).

This is the procedure I would use. Now I suggest that you have a qualified TV technician do this because there are certain dangers involved in this procedure. THIS IS NOT SOMETHING YOU SHOULD TRY TO DO YOURSELF.

I hope this helps,

Thank you,

Shuttle83,

Http://www.electron-age-technologies-llc.com

Nov 28, 2008 | Sony FD Trinitron WEGA KV-36FS120 36" TV

1 Answer

Rubber cup top of television tube is loose does this matter and what is it


The rubber cup supplies the high voltage to the CRT. The cup will move around a little but it should not be loose. Make sure you let the TV set bleed off the high voltage before you touch this connection. The correct way to discharge this lead is to attach a lead to the chassis ground and the other end to a screwdriver and insert the screwdriver under the rubber cup and touch the metal lead under the rubber cup. Make sure your hand is insulated when doing this. You can remove the rubber cup by grabbing the rubber boot and squeezing it. This compresses the clip under the boot and allows you to remove the lead from the CRT. make sure you do this with the set unlugged and with the CRT anode fully discharged.
Good Luck,

- Jim

Feb 12, 2008 | Televison & Video

3 Answers

RCA 36" making loud pop then screen goes black


It seems that there is EHT Leakage from the EHT Transformer Anode Cap! Generally happens during rainy seasons, or if your TV is placed near a window or near an AC, due to excess of moisture in the air. Unplug the TV and wait for an hour to discharge all residual charge in Capacitors. Open the back, and look for a thick red cable leading from the FBT. (It is a Black Block with a thick red cable running from it to the rear of the Picture Tube). Take a sturdy Electrical cable with the conductor visible at both ends. (Multimeter Leads will do.) Now, ground one end of this lead to any Metal part of the Chassis, and gently ease the other end under the Cap of the EHT Cable. BE VERY CAREFUL, as there are very High Voltages involved! Do it Gently, and you will hear a POP! This indicates that the Electrical Charge inside tha Picture has been discharged. Now Take dry cloth and wipe clean the area around the Anode Cap. Close the back of the TV, and switch it ON. In all likelihood your problem should be resolved. BUT, I REPEAT, DO NOT DO THIS UNLESS YOU KNOW WHAT YOU ARE DOING, AND ARE VERY VERY CAREFUL. Otherwise, seek professional help!

Aug 22, 2006 | RCA F32649 32" TV

1 Answer

Sony kd28dx40u


It seems that there is EHT Leakage from the EHT Transformer Anode Cap! Generally happens during rainy seasons, or if your TV is placed near a window or near an AC, due to excess of moisture in the air. Unplug the TV and wait for an hour to discharge all residual charge in Capacitors. Open the back, and look for a thick red cable leading from the FBT. (It is a Black Block with a thick red cable running from it to the rear of the Picture Tube). Take a sturdy Electrical cable with the conductor visible at both ends. (Multimeter Leads will do.) Now, ground one end of this lead to any Metal part of the Chassis, and gently ease the other end under the Cap of the EHT Cable. BE VERY CAREFUL, as there are very High Voltages involved! Do it Gently, and you will hear a POP! This indicates that the Electrical Charge inside tha Picture has been discharged. Now Take dry cloth and wipe clean the area around the Anode Cap. Close the back of the TV, and switch it ON. In all likelihood your problem should be resolved. BUT, I REPEAT, DO NOT DO THIS UNLESS YOU KNOW WHAT YOU ARE DOING, AND ARE VERY VERY CAREFUL. Otherwise, seek professional help!

Aug 01, 2006 | Sony FD Trinitron KV-28FQ75 28" TV

13 Answers

How to discharge the TV tube?


First off there is no capacitor that holds the High voltage on the tube. Its the tube itself that stores the charge and if you dont discharge a tube properly it will bite you!!You can disconnect the 2nd anode of the tube(thats what the cup is called)that puppy can hold a charge for months as I've picked up used tubes that other service men may have striped out of a junk sets and still got zapped weeks later and it can burn a hole right in you if it bites you the right way. That metal strap is the ground for the crt(the picture tube) The proper way to saftly discharge a crt would be to take a screwdriver perferably a flat tip and connect a cliplead to the screw driver and clip the other end to the ground strap. Carefully slide the screwdriver up UNDER the cup on the crt till you reach the middle of the tube as you will feel it as it wont go any farther. In the meantime you might hear a pop sound and that would be the dischargeing of the tube.. Keep that screwdriver in place a min. of 30 to 40 secs. then remove . Then pinch the cup the oppisite direction on both sides that the wire is running as the cup is held in place by a small hooks on both sides Be carefull not to rip off the cup or bend the small hole suround that the cup is attached. And never ever poke a hole in the cup as I've seen peeps do and when you turn back on a set you will have fireworks as the high voltage will arch out all over the place and if your hand or face is close to it it will get you too!! Now take the clip lead and attach to the grounding strap and clip the other end to where you just took off the cup and your all set.Good Luck with your repair

Mar 16, 2006 | Panasonic PV-C2010 20 in. TV/VCR Combo

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