Question about Estate Washing Machines
Posted by Anonymous on
The critical question is. Is the water is just running down the drain but the pump isn't running. If it is being pumped out, and you can hear the pump running just the same as when it's emptying prior to spin then it could be aborting the wash because it is, or it thinks it's overheating. ( due to defective water temperature switch)
If the pump is failing to shut off then there is something wrong with the electronics. If your washer is a mechanical timer controlled device then you may have a sticking switch (which may explain if switching cycles does something for you). But if you have an electronic timer then you may be experiencing a board failure, where a cycle is being commanded when it is not intended to by design.
If water isn't being pumped out, but just draining away all the time, the washer will keep detecting there isn't enough water inside and top up with more.
Modern washing machines should be sophisticated enough to realize something's wrong and abort with an error, but if not, it may continue washing or rinsing for a short while before losing enough water to trigger more coming in again. It can get stuck on this cycle indefinitely and it's called siphoning.
Siphoning occurs when the end of the drain hose is lower than the level of the water inside the washing machine.
Try raising the hose and see what happens.
Also the drain hose should have some type of air gap where it fits into the stand pipe. It should not have an air tight fit.
Again Either it's siphoning down the drain due to an issue with the plumbing, it's overfilling, or also if it ( THE WATER) overheats then in some machines the software will employ a fill and drain tactic to cool down the water. The important thing is to work out which of these different faults is causing the problem by careful observation.
Other switch's to check would be the water inlet valve and the water pressure switch with a multi meter for continuity or OHMS.
And in some modern washers that come with THERMISTORS:
One symptom of a washing machine that thinks it's overheating and thus fills and drains at same time ( possibly because of a faulty thermistor) is if it's filling with cold water and pumping out at the same time. This is covered in this articleWashing machine fills and drains at same timealthough the same symptom can be caused by other faults.
By the way my advice is free cuz God is good!
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Posted on Apr 25, 2016
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: shutting down on rinse cycle
Hi this could means that you may need to replace the washing machine bearings. Once the bearings are bad, the motor overheats and it will automatically shut down after the first rinse.
Timonty from WashingMachineAdvisor.com
Posted on Sep 02, 2008
that is either a problem with the timer , or with the cold water hose at the back of the machine, see the following:
I quote from : The cycle doesn't advance
The cycle doesn't advanceWhen the cycle doesn't advance, it's probably the timer or a cold-water supply problem:
Posted on Nov 20, 2008
It sounds like you have some buildup in the cold water valve screen. Where the hose connects to the washer there should be a screen inside the valve. Remove the cold water hose from the washer and clear any debri on the valve screen.
If this doesn't fix the slow cold water flow then you will have to replace the whole water valve assembly. The water valve is the piece that the hoses connect too and supply water to the washer.
If you have anymore questions about this please ask. I will be more than happy to help you out.
Posted on Jan 12, 2009
If your washer is overfilling, check these:
Water-inlet valve A defect in the water-inlet valve may mean that it's no longer able to shut off completely when the electricity has been turned off to it. If this occurs, the valve may leak and drip water into the clothes tub. In time, the water may accumulate substantially. If this happens, you need to replace the valve.
Water-level switch A defect--or an obstruction--in the water-level switch may mean that it can't tell the water to shut off. So the machine overflows. This switch senses the water level in the clothes tub. It's usually a diaphragm device with a small, clear tube attached between the switch and the bottom of the washer's outer tub. As the water level in the tub increases, the pressure on the air in the tube increases. When the pressure reaches a certain level, it activates the switch, shuts off the water, and signals the timer to begin the agitate cycle. You can either clear any obstruction in the tube or replace the water-level switch.
It's underfilling The water-level switch regulates your washer's fill volume. This switch is usually a diaphragm device with a small, clear tube attached between the switch and the bottom of the washer's outer tub. As the water level in the tub increases, the pressure on the air in the tube increases. When the pressure reaches a certain level, it activates the switch, shuts off the water, and signals the timer to begin the agitate cycle. If the switch is defective, it may prematurely signal the water to shut off. If so, you probably need to replace the water-level switch.
The water temperature is incorrect The temperature of the incoming water determines the temperature of the water in your washer. You get either hot, cold, or a mix of the hot and cold water that's currently available to the machine. So if the cold water that enters the machine is very cold--or if the hot water entering the machine is very hot--the warm water is affected.
If you live in a Northern climate, unless you adjust the hot and cold water taps that supply water to your washer, the warm water supplied to your washer is usually hotter during the summer months and colder during the winter months.
Posted on May 08, 2009
SOURCE: shreiking spin in rinse cycle
Your pump is probably what's causing the noise . Usually the bearing starting to go out , causing the pump to freeze up , begins with this noise .
Posted on Oct 11, 2009
Testimonial: "Thought it might be a belt rather than the pump."
Tips for a great answer:
Nov 19, 2012 | Bosch Washing Machines
Under the rotary switch on the left there is a micro
switch which is probably stuck in and it always pressed. That is why you enter
in RINCE directly and also it repeatedly stays at RINCE position.
So first you need to check the rotary switch and try
to slightly pull it out with a thin screwdriver very softly. If this it does
not make any different you need to replace this rotary switch
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