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Adjusting chain tension screw is not moving

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You must loosen the 2 nuts that hold the bar inplace a little. Then the tension screw will turn.

Posted on May 12, 2014

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: chain tension

Hi Sally, I guess you don't have the owners manual. It tells you how to adjust chain tension. If you look around near the motor side of the bar, you should see two nuts that hold a bracket tight against the bar and an adjustment screw or bolt or something to loosen or tighten the chain by moving the bar or making it longer or shorter. Adjust that so that the bar is as short as possible and put the chain back in place. Then tighten that feature till the chain is snug again and tighten the two nuts to hold the bar firmly.

Posted on Sep 11, 2008

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SOURCE: Chain falling off on small load

New bar and chain should do the trick. ONCE IT GETS A LITTLE DULL T BUILDS UP HEAT AND STRETCHES. Use a good quality case hardened chain they last longer and are well worth the extra money.

Posted on Jan 04, 2009

  • 104 Answers

SOURCE: chain will not turn

take it back sounds like you have stripped the drive gear

Posted on May 26, 2009

  • 10865 Answers

SOURCE: Chain moves while idle

Hello there. Regarding the bar oil, many loggers plan their work so that they are out of bar oil at the same time that they quit for the day because bar oil has a tendency to leak. Another method that has some success is to mix your bar oil with a heavier oil but the trade off might be less lube getting to the chain when you need it.

Regarding the chain moving in idle, this is another common problem. You can usually slow the idle down until the chain stops, as you indicated, but I too have had chain saws where I finally just decided to live with it and be extra attentive to what was going on.

Posted on Jun 11, 2009

  • 188 Answers

SOURCE: How do you adjust chain tension?

Here is a link to instructions for EL-8 series saws ... For series LNT-2, LNT-3,EL-1, and EL-7 according to the manufacturer... "WARNING: The cutting edges on the chain are sharp. Protective gloves should be used when touching the chain. Unplug the chain saw from the power supply. Allow chain to cool. Loosen the guide bar nuts until they are finger tight. Ensure the adjusting block is in the adjustment hole in the guide bar. Turn the chain tensioning screw clockwise to increase tension. Turn the chain tensioning screw counterclockwise to decrease tension. Check for proper chain adjustment by pulling down on the chain at the bottom center of the guide bar. You should see no more than a ⅛ inch gap between the chain cutting links and the guide bar. The guide (or drive) links should not come out of the guide bar grooves. The chain should rotate freely around the guide bar. If it does not, chain tension should be decreased. When the chain is properly adjusted, tighten the guide bar nuts securely." On the M series if your chain keeps slipping off your sprocket... The Sprocket cover tab (located on the round part of the sprocket cover) isn’t inserted into the saw body tab slot. I hope this helps you!

Posted on Jul 01, 2009

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I can't get the tension right on my Bernette 65

loosen of the top thread tension a bit and increase the bottom thread tension
that is done by screwing up the small screw that holds the flat plate of the bobbin carrier that you pull the thread through and under when you put the bobbin back in the carrier
moving that screw as little as 1/8 turn changes the tension a lot
use scrap and keep adjusting until the threads meet at the center of the materials

Jan 11, 2016 | Sewing Machines

1 Answer

How do I adjust the bobbin tension on a mademoiselle 300 sewing machine

Take out your bobbin case Hold it in front of you until you can see the little screw head
Mark down on a piece of paper at what o'clock the screw head is sitting ie look at the screw head as a clock face and see where the time is!!
Then left turn is to loosen the bobbin tension right tun is to tighten the tension.
ONLY move the screw head about quarter turn each time, mark where on the clock you have moved it to
Put back in machine and sew, check stitches Take out again and follow above instructions do again. Most times it only takes a couple of tries to get it right.
. The stitches should be even on the top and on the bottom. Sometimes if you are using a thicker thread in the bobbin it can be tricky These instructions are the same for what ever machine you are using. Sometimes in your instruction book there are how to's on setting the bobbin tension. I hope that this can help you Dot

Mar 05, 2015 | Brother Sewing Machines

1 Answer

Thread forming loops underneat

It's a tension problem. Either your upper tension is too loose, or your bobbin tension is off. What kind of machine is it ? Machines have various settings for the upper tension. Usually it should be near the middle setting for most uses. If the upper tension mechanism is worn out or the springs are damaged, it needs repair. First try changing the upper tension settings, one increment at a time to see if it gets better.

Also double check to be certain it is properly threaded, because thread that's missed one guide can cause this problem too. Try a brand new needle, in case the needle has some damage.

If it's properly threaded, with a new needle and adjusting the upper tension does not help, it may be the bobbin tension that's off. Bobbin tension is often controlled by a single screw, which you can adjust. Take the bobbin case out and find the screw. Use a marker to mark where the screw slot is positioned now, because you may need to move it back to where you started. Then move it a quarter turn at a time in one direction first, to see if it helps. One direction will tighten it, the other will loosen it. The ideal tension for a bobbin is when you can dangle the bobbin case by the thread and have it move along the thread when you give it a bit of a shake, as you would to use a YO YO. If it won't move at all, the tension is too tight. If it slides freely, it's too loose.

If none of that helps, you need a repair man.

Oct 09, 2014 | Sewing Machines

1 Answer

How to replace ryobi electric chain

There should be a tensioning screw that needs to be backed off to allow the bar to be moved towards the back of the saw. I am not sure on your saw if the screw is on the cover or on the saw side of the bar. So start by taking off the cover over the bar then you will see the tension adjusing screw. On the screw will be a peg that fits into a hole in the bar. Turn the screw so the peg moves towards the sprocket. When the bar is far enough back you can place the chain over the bar and sprocket. Then with the peg in the bar put the cover back on and turn the screw to move the bar forward till the chain is snug. If it is too tight the chain will not move around the bar. With gloves on you should be able to move the chain around the bar. If you can not it is too tight. Back off the adjusting screw till you can then fully tighten the cover screws.

Nov 26, 2013 | Garden

1 Answer

Chain tensioner screw keeps breaking on husqvarna 455 rancher

The tensioner should only move the bar when the retaining nut/nuts are loosened, once the nut/nuts are tightened there should be no pressure on the tensioner, so the nut/nuts are not tight enough.

Mar 01, 2013 | Husqvarna Chain Saw 20" Bar

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Tensioner pulley stuck

These screws are always corroded to the point that all the spray rust remover will not fix. Replacing the whole tensioner is usually the only solution

Jun 27, 2012 | 1988 Mazda RX-7

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Look for a small screw head either on the right side by the chain sprocket cover, or in the front of the saw. This is the chain tensioner, but it will not move unless you loosen the nuts hold the chain sprocket cover, since those bolts go through the chain bar guide you are trying to move. Just loosen them enough to be able to turn the chain tensioner screw and then retighten them when you have the proper tension. Good luck.

May 27, 2011 | Poulan 14" Electric Chainsaw

3 Answers

Tricks to replacing serpentine belt on 97 jeep wrangler?

I just replaced water pump on my 97 wrangler, 4 cyl- without AC. Engines with AC are a little different. Since I don't have one, I can't saw how to change the belt--- but here it is for the 4 cylinder 1997 without AC.

So I had the belt off, and last thing was to put it back.

A. If you are unsure about memorizing the belt path, make your own drawing. If you are absolutely sure you can memorize the belt path---- make a drawing. Just some circles for each pulley.

Removing belt. Key mechanical location: The tensioning idler pulley. This adjustable tensioning pulley is on the right, below the power steering pump. It can be moved on a diagonal to tension the belt. The key to moving it is you must loosen the idler pulley mounting screw about two turns.

Locate the idler pulley. There is a hex head screw in the center. Use a 15 mm combination wrench to loosen this. Turn counter clockwise two turns.

Now, locate the tension adjusting screw. Look at about 10 oclock position above the idler pulley you just loosened, near the thermostat housing. There is a hex head that runs a long screw diagonally behind the plate. There is a block mounted to this screw that holds the idler. So turning this screw changes the tension.

Using a 15 mm wrench, turn this screw counter-clockwise to loosen the tension on the belt. A socket and ratchet drive will help. You will need a universal or a 3 in' "wobble" extension, because the thermostat housing and temperature sender are in the line of the hex head screw drive.

Good word: This rod is likely to be rusty and VERY stiff. Do not keep turning this if it is getting stiffer and stiffer. That means rust is jamming up the threads. Lubricate the block area on the back of the plate, directly behind the idler pulley, and work the tensioning screw backwards and forwards to get the threads cleaned up. If you have time, (probably an hour extra) you may wish to back the rod right out and remove it for wire brushing, and then re-install with marine grade anti-corrosion grease. I did this five years ago and it still is always moving freely.

Once tension is off, remove the belt.

Thread up the new belt. Expect to have to loosen the idler even MORE, because this new belt is not stretched at all.

Bring tension back up with the tensioner screw. Use your thumb to press on the belt on one of the long spans. Under moderate pressure it should move about 1/4 inch.

Tighten the pulley center screw to about 13 to 15 foot/lbs. If you do not have torque wrench, just make sure you don't use any more force than you can put on the wrench using only your "pinkie" finger. This is usually safe to prevent over-tightening anything on the outside of the engine.

I borrowed this quote from JeffsJeep at the

A look at the FSM for the 97 shows:
NEW SERPENTINE 800-900 N BELT (180-200 lbs. force) *
USED SERPENTINE 623-712 N BELT (140-160 lbs. force)

So if you have a tension measuring tool, then you can check it. If not, I suggest being conservative with tension. If it slips when wet, you can snug it up then. If you make the belt too tight, it wears out the water pump bearings.


Sep 06, 2009 | 1997 Jeep Wrangler

1 Answer

I can't find instructions for using the tooless chain tension

Bar/chain tension is generally controlled by a small screw adjuster... Basically you slightly loosen the nuts that are holding the bar onto the chainsaw, then turning the chain tension adjustment screw, this physically moves the bar outward from the saw, or inward depending on which way you turn it... When tightening, the bar moves outward away fromt he saw, in effect making the bar length slightly "longer" in regards to its position against the drive mechanism. This results in the chain on the bar being "stretched" and tightened against the bar as a result.

Hope that helps!

Mar 17, 2009 | Husqvarna Garden

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