Question about Heating & Cooling
Posted by Anonymous on
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
hi there, your boiler will perfectly match the mira excel ( a great choice i might add) a 24cdi will give about 9.8 litres a minute flow rate hot water.
The mira excel is suitable for any plumbing set up and there installation instruction are very well laid out & their helpline is fantastic.
The hot water will fluctuate accordingly to the time of year as the cold water temp coming into the property will vary. but the boiler will modulate to compensate.So in brief in the summer you will notice it hotter than you would in the winter, this has nothing to do with the boiler just the incoming temp of the cold water.
Posted on Dec 15, 2008
SOURCE: Shower goes hot and cold
If you are having trouble only at the one fixture (shower), and no where else, the problem is most likely in the shower valve...which either needs new cartridges, or a complete replacement.
hope this helps
Posted on Jan 08, 2009
SOURCE: Water turns cold very quickly
I had the EXACT same problem (installed my tankless last winter and worked fine, now this summer it fluctuates, have to turn the shower completely off and then on again to get any hot water and then it only lasts for a couple of minutes!) Argh - it is frustrating!
Here's what I found: the demand for hot water is lower during the summer (hot) months because the "cold" water coming in is already quite warm. You don't need as much hot water to make the shower temp comfortable. SO, my tankless was shutting off due to low flow demand. I've removed the flow restrictor from my shower head and it helped alot but didn't completely solve the prob. Next step is what has been recommended to me by several people but is much more expensive - change the pressure valve on your shower to a temperature valve. Or just wait til winter and it should work ok again :)
Posted on Aug 20, 2010
Testimonial: "I will give that a try because it is a long time until winter! Thanks."
SOURCE: my boiler heating is working
As I understand your question, you have a boiler with a 'summer/winter' hookup for domestic hot water.
Your boiler should run all the time, i.e. not be shut off by you. Your boiler provides hot water for baseboard heat in your home ... possibly through several 'zones' each controlled by an individual thermostat and circulator. Yours may be a steam system. If this is the case, you have radiators not radiant baseboard heaters and no circulators.
Your summer/winter hookup provides a constant supply of domestic hot water. It does this by taking cold water from your water main and passing it through a copper coil which sits inside your boiler and then to your hot water main in your home. Since the coil sits in the hot water at the top of the boiler, it is constantly being heated. This coil may be in a deteriorated condition in your case or it may be too small for your needs.
Several years ago, I did a small upgrade to my mid 1950's era American Standard boiler. The summer winter hookup in my case was mounted on a 4 inch cast iron boiler plug. The coil was 12 feet long (folded up to a package about 1 foot long). I was very afraid when the plumber came in with what amounted to a 10 foot long pipe wrench. My fear was I would have a pile of broken cast iron at the end of the day. All is well that ends well. He got the old one out and replaced it with a coil that consisted of 20 feet of copper tubing 3/4 inch in size (the folded tubing was about 20 inches long and fit nicely into the boiler). We now have all the hot water a household consisting of one guy and three gals would need in all but the extremest of times..
I think you r answer is here ... replace your summer/winter coil with a new, bigger coil.
Something else I did. My kitchen is 60 feet (pipe wise) from the boiler. It takes a long time to get hot water there. I put in a small electric hot water heater just under the kitchen. I put a timer on it so it runs for a couple hours in the morning and a few hours in the afternoon. The hot water line from the boiler serves as the cold water input to the heater. I now enjoy the convenience of quick hot water in the kitchen with the relatively low cost of oil heated water from the boiler as a relatively small cost of electricity.
My winter settings are 160 - 200 and my summer settings are 120 - 150 which seems adequate for our needs.
Thanks for your question at FixYa.com. I hope I have been of assistance to you today.
Posted on Feb 05, 2011
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Need to know more about the system... zone valves ot pumps....indirect hot water tank or internal coil??
Here is a tip that I wrote that may shed some light on things for you...
In most cases problems with the circulator pump boil down to two problems.
The most common is air in the lines causing an air lock.
The next problem is that the pump gets stuck and is not running even though it may be hot and seem to be running. In this cause the pump can sometimes be taken apart, cleaned and it will work, but usually it needs to be replaced.
Here is a tip that I wrote that will explain circulator pump problems in more detail.
Heating Circulating Water Pump Problems
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