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Subwoofer fuse blown

My Paradigm PDR10 speaker has a quick buzz sound when I turn it on, and immediately blows its fuse. Happens everytime I replace the fuse. What can I do?

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: PAradigm ps-1000 subwoofer

It turns out its most likely one of the resistors on the PCB on the amplifier plate.

My uncle has had the same problem and managed to replace the resistor and its working as normal now.

Posted on Nov 02, 2008

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SOURCE: AR1 Subwoofer Keeps Blowing the 5 Amp Fuse

Well, so far so good. I reinstalled the newly repaired amp and fired it up and so far, so good. Ran it through about an hour of fairly intense break-in tracks and then ran it through about 2 dozen power up and down cycles to try to get it to fail (better now than a month from now and have to fight them on backing it up).

Posted on Nov 13, 2008

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Subwoofer issues

I have the Onkyo SKW-200 and the fuses are blowing also. Plug it in and the fuses blow instantly. My brother has the same sub and the same thing happened. Our subs only worked for about 1 month before they went out. Do you think it is the power supply?

Posted on Nov 20, 2008

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SOURCE: loud humming buzzing sound coming from subwoofer

make sure you have the speaker connection right if you do then it is a ground problem try plugging it in a different outlet

Posted on Dec 16, 2008

oilcitycompu
  • 3 Answers

SOURCE: audiosource AST-Sub 10 subwoofer. it blows the fuse when turn on.

It sounds like your audio amplifer has a short (probably the out put transistors or module). This should not be an expensive epair.
To check your speaker you can use an ohm meter. First, pull of one of the two wires that connects at the speaker. You should read 4 to 8 Ohms. Also you will hear a little pop through the speaker as you touch the wire. You can also use a 9 volt battery in the same way.
Good Luck

Posted on Jul 25, 2009

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If it is a powered sub, the sub power supply may have failed. There might be an open fuse.

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I hope I have been of help but please do not hesitate to ask if you have any further questions.

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Simplest problem would be a blow fuse. Might be one on the face of the amplifier, but more likely inside. Remove the plate amp and see if one's easily visible, near where the power cord goes through the face of the amplifier.

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I have the same problem. An external transformer would step down the voltage, but it wouldn't help with the frequency, which would still be 50Hz. Paradigm says there's a risk of burnout if an unmodified PDR-10 is run at 50Hz rather than 60Hz

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NEVER increase or replace the fuse without repairing the unit. Further damage is likely if you do so.

Put a light bulb, say 150 watts in series with the power to the unit to act as a fuse that won't damage things while troubleshooting. The light will light and limit the current.

There are three 47mfd/63V electrolytics on the output module. I suspect one of those is shorted. Observe the correct polarity when replacing. C2 and C3 are most likely. Use my above suggestion with the light bulb and check the voltage across each of these. It should likely be in the 35 to 45 volt range though schematic doesn't show the value..

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One of a pair of tannoy 6 D studio monitors went out with a loud buzz and now does nothing when I turn it on. No LED light ? No Sound.


Speakers don't cause a loud buzz but amplifiers do. Is it possible that the input to the amp lost it's ground? Regardless, this is not why the speaker does nothing but you would want to correct any amplifier problem before hooking up another speaker. If as you say, absolutely nothing happens it is possible that you blew out the voice coil of one of the drivers but blowing out both the woofer and tweeter simultaneously would be unusual, not to mention that Tannoys can take quite a bit of guff. So the next possibility is that there is a problem internally with the crossover or,and I doubt that it exists, and internal fuse associated with it. Since there is an LED (and I don't know what purpose it serves) there has to be some sort of power supply (fused?) to activate it. It could be derived from the audio output of the amp but it would then pulse on and off rather than just be constantly on. Getting inside the unit with an ohmmeter would quickly determine what's going on but I don't know how this can be meaningfully diagnosed at arms length and therefore just can give you some generic ideas.

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If your fuse keeps on blowing after you cg=hanging,that meens that there is a shortage.check it first using the multimeter.good luck.

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Well, so far so good. I reinstalled the newly repaired amp and fired it up and so far, so good. Ran it through about an hour of fairly intense break-in tracks and then ran it through about 2 dozen power up and down cycles to try to get it to fail (better now than a month from now and have to fight them on backing it up).

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I am trying to work out if you have damaged the speakers and amp too.
Have you tried a pair of headphones on the amp? If they sound ok then your amp is fine.
Assuming it is, then speakers have what's called crossover units in side each of them. This splits the sound into three parts. Bass, midrange, treble. The bass is handled by the woofer's, the midrange by a middle sized speaker or or it's combined with a tweeter, which of course handles the treble.
Connecting a 1.5 volt battery across any of the individual speakers will cause it to pop if working. If the speaker then is not getting sound then the crossover unit is to blame.
When you look at the crossover unit, it will have coils and capacitors (non polarised) on it. The bigger ones deal with the bass and the smaller ones treble. If you find a fault say on the crossover of the speaker, for example no treble comes out of it. Then start by replacing the capacitors. Use the same value as on the capacitor and remember they fit any way round.

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