Question about GE Advantium SCA1000H Convection / Microwave Oven

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GE Advantium 120 SCA1000DWW03 blowing 20amp fuse

The unit was working normally then when it was set to cook the fuse blew as soon as it attempted to start. No clear cause as to why the main power fuse blew in the first place. However I removed the unit and checked continuity at the main power 20a/250v fuse and determined it was blown. I replaced the fuse and the display function came back on and everything seemed normal. However as soon as I attempted to cook with it, the fuse immediately blew again. Are there any known common problems or areas that I should suspect as the root cause for this failure on this microwave?

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  • Clint Mahoney
    Clint Mahoney Feb 13, 2014

    William Miller nailed it. The interlock monitor switch wasn't properly seated in it's mount. (but nobody in the house ever slammed the door shut, or so they say) I guess gremlins are hard at work here. Anyway, thanks for the leads. A 20A fuse and a little labor sure beats paying over a grand for an new comparable unit.

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Our unit was doing the same thing,
took it into the repair shop, they said there was nothing wrong with the unit, replace the main breaker that supplies power to microwave and try again.
Sure enough the breaker became defective, and we never had issues with it before, but now the unit has not had a single problem.

Posted on Jan 14, 2017

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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  • 19 Answers

SOURCE: Ge Spacemaker microwave jvm240 wv Micro hood combo.

sounds to me like the magnatron has shorted out. i don't know of a way to test them unless you have some high dollar equipment. a continuity test prob wont tell you anything. what reading did you get on the cap when you tested it?

Posted on Jan 06, 2008

MicrowaveSvc
  • 9086 Answers

SOURCE: GE microwave oven - just stopped stopped working

A microwave can be dead for many reasons.

If the fuse is good, it may be an open thermostat or thermal cutout (TCO) / thermal fuse on or near the magnetron or on top of the cavity / body of the oven.

If it goes dead for a while during or after cooking then comes back on, the magnetron is probably overheating and causing the magnetron thermostat to open.

Then when it cools, it closes the circuit and allows power through again.

When checking thermostats, if it has a hood fan thermostat, that should read open, as opposed to the others, which should read closed.

If it went dead almost immediately after pressing the Start pad, that's usually a shorted high-voltage capacitor.

If it went dead a few seconds after pressing the Start pad, that's usually a failing high-voltage transformer.

If it goes dead or blows the breaker when you plug it in or open or close the door, then there's a problem with a door switch or door switch mount.

If it's intermittent or random, it may be a bad connection, usually on the control board or a loose fuse holder, or even an intermittent fuse.

You should do a continuity test on the fuse while it's in the holder (with the microwave unplugged, of course) then turn the fuse by hand or take it out and put it back in, then test it again.

If you remove the fuse, then press the meter leads against the ends, it can allow internal contact to be made and make a bad fuse appear to be good.

If you or someone you know decide to look into it, we have critical safety information and disassembly information at our site, and our link is at our listing here on FixYa: http://tinyurl.com/yzjozk

You can usually find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full model number here: http://tinyurl.com/gv383

NOTE: There should also be a "mini-manual" hidden inside the unit behind the control panel or hidden on the left side behind the grille, which is very helpful when troubleshooting.

We're happy to help and we appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

Posted on Jun 08, 2008

MicrowaveSvc
  • 9086 Answers

SOURCE: GE Advantium SCA1000 not heating

That would be 'the primary interlock (top door switch), or its mount may be loose or cracked.

It may be a coincidence, or not. Hard to say.

Door switch or mount trouble is usually caused by slamming the door or by opening the door while it's cooking without hitting the Stop pad first.

But it could be misalignment from the door work. Too bad he didn't just replace the door handle. That's such an easy job.

There are plastic mounts inside the microwave which hold the door switches and onto which the door latches lock when you close the door.

The screws on these mounts may be loose. If they get too loose, the switches will not be activated properly.

Sometimes it's a broken tab on the switch holder, allowing the switch to rotate just out of position. This tab can be hard to see, since it is under the bottom edge of the switch.

It's usually more economical and safer to add a dab or two of hot glue to the mount to secure the switch. Let it cool for about 30 minutes before using.

One test that sometimes helps is to gently lift up (and/or push down) on the door or handle as you try to start it. If it works or tries to work, then it's a door switch mount or door alignment issue.

We have the service / repair manual for this model and have uploaded it to our site here to help you.

It will give you safety info, step by step help in disassembly, troubleshooting tips, and part numbers.

You will need the
free Acrobat Reader to view or print it in case you don't have it already.

If you only need a switch, you can order a universal type here for $5 postpaid.

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

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Posted on Jan 29, 2009

  • 574 Answers

SOURCE: Microwave appears to have no power. Display is

You have a short somewhere. Possible causes, defective interlock switches for the door,shorted capacitor, shorted diode, defective triac. More than likely its one of these.

Posted on Oct 01, 2009

Testimonial: "Thanks. Sounds like I have some hunting to do to find the electrical short."

MicrowaveSvc
  • 9086 Answers

SOURCE: I have a dead GE Advantium 120 Microwave in my RV.

This heat could have come from excess current draw due to a failing part, such as the magnetron, or an improper voltage level at the outlet. It should measure 105-125VAC.

A loose connection can also result in heat and melting.

I would recommend replacing the section of wire that's melted. You need to make a good solid connection with proper wire nuts and solid crimped connectors.

If you think the TCO may have been stressed, it should be replaced, too.

I would also check the fuse holder by seeing if you can twirl the fuse with your bare fingers while it's in the holder. If so, then it is too loose and the holder must be replaced.

You cannot just squeeze it tighter with pliers, because metal fatigue will make it go loose again, possibly resulting in a melted fuse.

Lastly, I would replace the primary interlock (top door switch). See http://www.microwavedisplay.com/doorsw.txt.

Then make sure that no one opens the door while the oven is cooking unless it is specifically called for in the cooking cycle. Opening the door while it is cooking leads to premature switch failure and heat / melting of the switches connectors and wiring.

You can find the full service manual online here.

Yours may have the revised circuit. You can see the "mini-manual" for that version here.

There should also be a "mini-manual" hidden inside the unit behind the control panel or hidden on the left side behind the grille, which is very helpful when troubleshooting, & testing.

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At our Web site, we have a video available showing how to remove a typical over the range control panel assembly in under 5 minutes.

You can find links to helpful exploded view diagrams and part ordering help here.

I'd recommend that your bookmark this link to your favorites.


We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

Posted on Jan 10, 2010

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