Question about Crosley Refrigerators
Coil freezes up
Posted by Anonymous on
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
I'm in the process of fixing the same problem on a GSS22JEPDWW right now. There are several parts in the defrost circuit that I can tell:
1) Defrost Heater
3) Temp Sensor (Thermistor)
4) Main Control Board
I've replaced the Defrost Heater (remove back panel of freezer section - it's a stainless steel bracket that has a glass bulb in it) and it still doesn't work. The main control card provides power to the heater 4 times every 24 hrs for 25 minutes or so to defrost the evaporator coils. If all items are working, you'll see water in the drip catch at the bottom inside of the freezer compartment. Better yet, pull the refer away from the wall for 24 hrs and check if water is gathering below the plastic drain on the right rear of the refer in the pan. The water drips into a pan and the fan for the condensor coil evaporates it. Go to the www.ge.com website and look in the service section to find the parts diagram for your refer. You can then get a part number to buy the parts you need from a local parts store or the Internet.
I just bought the thermostat a few minutes ago and will try that next. Heater was $37, thermostat was $15. Sensor is about $20 and the control card is $140 (you can find on line for $95). I'm going down that path. If none of this works, it'll be in the dump in a week.
I've learned on-line GE refers are bad news. The control cards can fail repeartedly, althoough mine has worked for over 4 years. But, I won't ever buy another one since refers should last at least 15 years in my book. After $200, it doesn't pay to throw more good money after bad. I'll keep you posted on my results.
Posted on Jun 25, 2008
Hey how yo doing? on most refriderator there are two important parts to keeping freezer from freezing over, they are the bimetal thermostat and ice pipe heater. The bimetal therostat is a preset thermostat that ranges from 54degrees farenheit to about 60, when the coils (inside the freezer compartment behind the back panel) reach the preset temp. it closes a circuit and send electricity to the ice pipe heater, to warm the freezer coils preventing from freezing over. if any one of those components fail, your freezer will continue to freeze solid until there is no more space for ice to build on coils decreasing air flow from the evaporator fan blowing air into your fridge.To test you will minor knowledge on using a multimeter.(REMEBER TO UNPLUG REFRIDGERATOR BEFORE SERVICING, IF YOU UNCOMFORTABLE WORKING ON APPLIANCE PLEASE CONTACT A PROFFESIONAL REPAIR SERVICE..) If you'd like to continue please respond.
GOOD LUCK, WORK SAFELY..
Posted on Aug 13, 2008
Your drain tube may
be stopped up with ice at the upper end because it drains too slow because it's
stopped up at the lower end in the evaporator pan under the unit at the floor.
It can get dust and mold in it. Once you get the ice out at the top a little
pressure with a turkey baster will
usually clear it out. Flushing it out with hot water and clorox may help. Make
sure it drains quick enough to prevent refreezing. . The drain should be
located below the evaporator coils on the lower back of the freezer.
Take a bare copper wire and wrap it around a fin near the heater and put the other end a few inches down the drain. The heat convection may prevent it from freezing.
Posted on Jul 02, 2009
It is possible you have a defective fan motor in the condenser area or evaporator area. Sometimes when they become defective they will run for a while and just warm up and stop while the compressor continues to run. I learned that one on four costly returns to the home. The cost was to me not the customer. Thanks, Sea Breeze
Posted on Aug 05, 2009
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