Question about Kenmore 500 3.5 cu. ft. Top-Load Washing Machine 2952
This could be a defect in the timer, especially if it is the electromechanical type.
Posted on Feb 14, 2014
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
timer problem or maybe the lid switch is going bad. Im curious if the motor is getting hot and shutting down... go to whirlpoolpartssurplus.com call .. ask for mark
Posted on Jun 24, 2009
DOES IT DO THIS ON EVERY WASH OR SOMETIMES? IF SOMETIMES, CHECK LID SWITCH( THERE'S A LITTLE HOLE WHEN YOU OPEN THE LID, ON THE LID SHOULD HAVE A LITTLE PLASTIC PIECE THAT GOES IN THAT HOLE. THE SWITCH IS UNDER, INSIDE THAT HOLE. YOU CAN GET A PEN OR KEY TO SEE IF IT'S BROKEN.)
Posted on Aug 21, 2009
This is commonly caused by a lid switch malfunction. If the washer fills, agitates, then stops at the rinse and won't drain, or if the washer does an initial fill, then stops, this is a symptom of a lid switch malfunction.
The following link explains how to access and/or replace one:
The lid switch is usually mounted under the washer top casing, on the right hand side on most top load models. It is activated by a plastic piece on the lid (called a "Lid Strike") through a small hole on the rim of the wash tub opening. In many cases the lid strike breaks off the lid, or the lid switch becomes loose and no longer makes contact. Inspect the lid to make sure the lid strike is still intact, and then inspect the mounting screws (adjacent to the small opening on the wash tub rim) and make sure they are snug.
On some models, the lid switch is located under the top casing by one of the lid hinges. You will know if you if you have this type of switch, because It does not have a lid strike and the small hole on the right hand side of the wash tub will not be present. This switch is actuated (toggled) by a rod on the lid hinge. With this type of switch, if you locate it and it can be toggled by hand, you may only need to adjust the actuator by bending it slightly.
If the lid switch is found to be defective, it can be purchased at any of the following websites:
The average price is $25 to $35. Prices vary between these sites, so shop around for the best deal.
This is a very simple repair, but if you still have questions, please let me know. I hope this helps you.
Posted on Oct 06, 2009
First, see the Sears Parts site for your washer:
Also see the Whirlpool / Kenmore service manual.
Initial thoughts are a worn/broken motor coupler.
See the following for how to get to it and check it.
Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive washers use a "Motor Coupler" between the motor and transmission.
It's used as a fail safe device and consists of three parts.
Two of the parts are the same, plastic units with three prongs that fit on one of the motor output shafts and the other on the transmission input shaft. Between them is a rubber piece with six holes.
It's possible that the prongs have broken and the humming that you hear is the pieces rubbing against the center rubber piece.
The power from the motor is transmitted through the rubber piece to the transmission.
The other shaft on the motor directly drives the pump.
If the motor coupler is broken, or worn, the motor may not be able to send full power to the transmission for agitating or spinning.
See the following for how to remove the cabinet, pump, motor and motor mounting plate to inspect and replace the motor coupler.
If the coupler looks damaged, it's a relatively easy fix.
Pry the plastic pieces from the motor and transmission. Some people use a claw hammer but I've found that using a small (6 inch) pry bar works well.
Carefully fit the plastic pieces over the motor and transmission shafts and press them in place (Use a 1/2" of larger socket to put pressure equally around the pieces.
Put the rubber piece on the transmission plastic piece.
Replace the motor mounting plate.
Carefully line up the plastic prongs on the motor based plastic piece to the three un-used holes in the rubber piece. If they don't line up right, the coupler could be damaged.
Mount the motor, don't forget the two screws, put the pump back on the motor and use its' clips.
Put the cabinet back on, don't forget to plug the lid switch back in and re-mount the console.
Posted on Jan 10, 2010
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