Question about Frigidaire Freezers

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Freezer gets to cold

Model LFFU14F5HWC..freezer runs constantly down to -30 below zero. Checked thermostate (no ice in freezer) with ohm meter and checks ok..No matter what number on control panel, temperature does not change..

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  • Contributor
  • 41 Answers

HI

If your thermostat cannot control your motor automatically for on and off then you should change it as it is the only unit that can cause this problem.

Posted on Feb 23, 2014

  • Larry
    Larry Jun 05, 2014

    Could be the thermistor Causing this.

×

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6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 1314 Answers

SOURCE: running but does not get cold enough

feel the sides or the coils on back if it has any see if they are hot or cold

Posted on Feb 20, 2008

  • 1035 Answers

SOURCE: Errattic temperatures in Freezer

Check out "victory-refrig.com" for manuals, diagrams, etc.
Cap tube systems are "critical charge systems". Can be difficult to get right. You did not mention pressures that you had. The split on the evap vs.box temp is almost always 10 degrees for freezers. If you want a -10 box, your evap needs to be -20. As a general rule of thumb, you want the high side to be "ambient +30". This seems to work most every time. Your problem might be operations related. Them leaving the door open alot and so on. It could also be a problem with the evap fan or the control to it. It could also be that since there had been a problem with the unit, they are now constantly checking it. Could be checking during a defrost cycle. When your box is at 0 degrees, your pressure should be about a -10 and no less that a -15 degree for the evap. You may have to babysit this thing and see how far it will pull down. You may have a weak compressor. Also, I have had many Hobart freezers fail due to dirty condensers. This causes the oil in cap tube systems to gel and clog up the cap tubes. The only fix is replacing the cap tube. There are alot of variables here so be patient, it's not going to be a quick fix. One last thing, since R404A can fractionate, you really need to pull the charge out and weigh in the correct charge with virgin refrigerant. This will eliminate 2 things. 1, it will ensure the correct amount of refrigerant and, 2 no chance of having a poor mixture of refrigerant in the system causing inconsistant readings and performance.
Hope this helps. And remember, cap tube systems are performance measured by the amount of superheat just prior to the unit making temp and cutting off.

Posted on Mar 07, 2009

Kgt1962
  • 59 Answers

SOURCE: viking freezer and fridge power on but not getting cold.

Are you sure the compressors are running, it could just be that the fans are starting but the compressor does not start.

It sounds as though you may have fried the boards again.

Remove the top grille and reach in to the compressor, to see if it is running, you should be able to feel it vibrating, there should also be some heat to it, not neccessarily hot.

have you tried putting surge protectors on the outlets, to save the boards in the future?

Posted on Mar 12, 2009

Healeyman
  • 1198 Answers

SOURCE: freezer stopped making ice two days ago. Today fridge and freezer warm

Check the defrost timer. Rotate the dial on it to see if anything changes.

Posted on May 04, 2009

  • 91 Answers

SOURCE: Samsung Refrigerator with bottom freezer model #

Check for ice build-up in and around the freezer fan where the blades are, if you can see ice in there (some times it may look like white foam but dont be fooled, it will be ice), the fan will be hitting it, defrost the freezer and check defrost element, (you will have to dismantle freezer section to get to it but reletively simple job) disconect from mains first. Good luck

Posted on Dec 19, 2010

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1 Answer

Is my defrost timer broken or my thermostat? The freezer was holding -30 temp but now is at +30.


Is the compressor running? If not - the timer could be stuck in defrost mode. If it is ruinning, then the freezer coil should be cold. If it is choked with frost & ice - then the defrost heater isn't getting powered (bad timer or defrost terminator - or is getting powered but has burned out.

You should allow the ice and frost to melt completely before turning back on again. Typically ice and frost don't build up so bad in a few days time to cause the temperature rise you're describing If getting cold - the compressor and refrigerant is likely OK, if not the defrost circuit is suspect. If compressor running but not getting cold - a refrigerant leak / charge level may be causing the problem.

May 18, 2015 | Arctic Air 22 cu. ft. Commercial Freezer...

1 Answer

What can I do? My Woods upright freezer model F17WCE has stopped freezing. It is still cold, but not cold enough freeze.


Hello;

My name is Peter. I am a retired field service refrigeration technician.

How do you know you fully defrosted the freezer? You have a defrost timer and heater to do that. Unplugging your unit for a few hours may not be enough.

You need to remove the lower back wall cover. There are several screws holding it on and the rubber molding around it easily pulls out.

Up plug your unit and remove the lower back cover.

1.) Frozen Drain - Your unit goes through a defrost cycle every 8-10 hours. During the time your freezer shuts down for 20-30 minutes except for your light. If you have a frozen drain, the condensate builds up behind the lower back wall until the cooling(evaporator) coils become plugged up and you do not get any air flow. You may even have a solid block of ice.
Repair: Using a hair dryer (DO NOT Use Metal Objects. You may damage the coils.) slowly defrost the coils. This will take 2-3 hours.

2.) Cooling (Evaporator) Fan Failure - Assume the coils are not iced up. Is your evaporator fan running?


25386473-x2invnbvdad3ve0pcsobo2og-2-0.jpg
Part #: 3-60336-001 Cost: $115.00
Check it out: With a multi-meter set to the lowest Ohms (Omega Symbol). Is the motor humming, Then it is bad and needs to get replaced.
Unplug the unit. Disconnect the motor. Put one meter lead in one connector socket and the other lead in the other motor sock. You should get a reading of "0" Ohms if the motor is good. Anything else the motor is bad and need to be replaced.

3.) Defrost Timer - Pull your unit out to access the lower back. With your unit plugged in, take a small flat head screw driver, insert it into the slot on the time. Turning clockwise one turn at a time, until the freezer shuts off. If you have turned one full cycle, then you have a bad timer.
Ok. The unit shut down except for the light. Observe the metal bar below your cooling coil. Is it hot? If not then you may have a bad defrost heater. Lets check it out - Unplug your unit. Once again with your multi-meter set on the lowest Ohms, disconnect each ends of the wire connectors. Be careful not to touch the fins on the cooling coil. They are razor sharp. The connector are hard to pull apart. Put one meter lead in one connector and the other meter lead into the other connector. If you do not get a Ohm reading between 50-250, then you have a bad defrost heater.
25386473-x2invnbvdad3ve0pcsobo2og-2-2.jpg
Substitution: 3-80405-003 Cost: $56.00
This is a glass tube with a spring in it. If it is burner or the spring is broken then you have a bad defrost heater.

4.) Refrigerant Leak or Obstruction - With the unit plugged in. Lay the lover cover the cooling coils. Close the door and wait 30 minutes. Remove the cover. Do all of the coils have a nice frost pattern? Is there a block of ice in the upper right hand corner of the cooling coil. If so you either have a refrigerant leak or an obstruction. In this case the repair will cost you $450.00-$500.00.

5.) If all of the above is good, then you may have a Bi-mel problem. In the upper right hand corner of your cooling coil there is a thermostat. This controls the temperature and compressor start-up. This may explode in the back. Check to see if it is intacted.

5.) Bad thermostat - These can not be checked for failure. If you have check all of the above this may be your problem.
25386473-x2invnbvdad3ve0pcsobo2og-2-5.jpg Substitution: 4-83053-003 Cost: $68.00

Jan 27, 2015 | Woods Freezers

1 Answer

What do I need to fix when my freezer's condenser is solid ice? The door seal is OK. The fan runs constantly. Nothing stays frozen.


there is 2 componnets you must check inside the freezer, 1defrost heater,2defroset bimetal. check both for resistence (bimetal must be checked cold, should read ok ohms. so the defrost heater. if it has a timer good idea to put a new one too

Sep 18, 2014 | Freezers

1 Answer

Kenmore upright freezer


Hello;

My name is Peter. I am a retired field service refrigeration technician.

I am going to assume your compressor and condenser fan is running. Your condenser fan is in the lower back of your freezer.

You will need to remove the back cover in your freezer. There are 6 screws holding it on.

Check the following (Cover Removed):

1.) Frozen Drain - Your freezer goes into a defrost mode every 8-10 hours, where your freezer shuts down except for the lights, and your defrost heater turns on for about 20-30 minutes to defrost your cooling coil. If you have a frozen drain, the condensate builds up behind the back wall and icing the cooling coil, restricting air flow. You must defrost the coil.

2.) Freezer Fan Motor Failure - Having removed the back wall observe if the freezer fan motor is running. If not replace.

3.) Refrigerant Restriction or Leak - If you observe a large build-up of ice in the upper right hand corner, then you have a restriction or leak. The cost of repair would be about $400.00

4.) Bad Thermostat - In the upper right hand corner of you cooling coil, attached is your thermostat. They can explode, where the back of the thermostat will raise up.
22602419-rljzekqxa22lq3uayqx0h0vi-3-0.jpg 22602419-rljzekqxa22lq3uayqx0h0vi-3-3.jpg

You can also check it with a multi-meter, set to the lowest Ohms (Omega Symbol). You need to cut the wires, leaving enough wire length to rewire back in. Put the thermostat in a glass of ice water for 10 minutes. After, it should Ohm out around 16. It is reads '0' or infinity it is bad. Below 15 or 16 it is bad

Jan 01, 2014 | Freezers

1 Answer

I have model TFU12MOAW3 upright freezer and it does not run. I tested the voltage from the freezer control to the compressor relay and I have 120 volts. Could tell me how I can test this relay (P/N...


Hello,
The relay can be tested by putting meter leads in the 2 holes on it where it attaches to the compressor and it should be closed (zero ohms of resistiance) if you have the rectangle one thats how to test it. If its older style and has the wire coils on top of it must turn it upside down but still closed w/zero ohms.

to test overload thermostat disconnect it from compressor and it to should be closed with zero ohms from spade to where wire connects to hole where it connects onto prong on compressor.

both the realy and overload should be removed from compessor to test

if both check good test compressor by one meter lead on prong where overload fits onto and other on one then the other prong. Both the start and run winding on compressor should be between 5-20 ohms if either is open compressor is dead

Gene

Aug 12, 2011 | Frigidaire 20.3 Cu. Ft. Frost-Free Upright...

2 Answers

Botttom will not cool but top cools


Do you see frost built up on back wall of freezer if so it is not defrosting and this is what needs to be checked, remove back wall of freezer and check these;
Defrost heater-- it usually is at bottom of the evap. coil, to check it remove wires to it ,use a meter set to the lowest ohms setting and check for somewhere between 10-50 ohms if that is what yours is its good if meter reads OL replace defrost heater

Defrost thermostat-- if clips to the top of the evap. coil and is metallic,round , about the diameter of a quarter with a plastic side with 2 wires coming from it(do not confuse it w.thermister),remove wires and check for ZERO ohms WHEN TESTING IT MUST BE COLD so check it when frost is built up,IF meter reading is OL (WHEN COLD) its the problem

Defrost timer or defrost control if has digital display to show tempature
check timer(it could be anywhere except in freezer) by turning till you hear a click,the defrost heater should come on within 5 minutes if the heater does come on the timer is the problem and needs to be replaced,if the heater does not come on the above mentions parts (heater/t-stat) will be the problem.
defrost control is hard for unskilled lay persons to check SO IF heater and defrost t-stat are good replace control

Hope this helps,

Gene

Aug 03, 2011 | Frigidaire Freezer GLRT183TD

1 Answer

Sub Zero ice maker (Model 235) not making ice, warm inside


try first. condenser ciol clean. is the water cold? is cutter grid in god shape? the brackett under the evaporator is attached?

Apr 02, 2010 | Freezers

1 Answer

Refrigerator is not cooling


Good day,
You will need an ohm meter to check the parts.
Your defrost system has failed.
It is made up of 3 components, 2 of which are located behind the rear panel in the freezer compartment.
Remove the rear panel. There is a cooling coil, that has a calrod heating element that runs along it's bottom. As well there is a defrost thermostat ( a small round 1" disk) which is located on the top of the same coil. Both should be checked with an ohm meter to test for continuity. The heater should read no more than 30 ohms, the thermostat ( IT MUST STILL BE COLD BELOW 30 DEGREES) should read zero ohms. Note: The heater rarely fails, the thermostat has a high failure rate.

The third item is a timer, or a solid state adaptive defrost control. Depending on age, and model, it is located , behind the kick plate on the bottom front.
Or, in the fresh food compartment on the roof.
If it is a timer, you can turn the timer shaft when the machine is running until the machine shuts off. With it still turned on, wait 40 minutes.
If the machine turns itself back on, the timer is O.K. if not, the timer is bad, and needs replaced.
If the Main heater checks O.K. and it has a solid state control, then replace the thermostat in the freezer compartment, and the solid state board.

Below is an excellant tutorial on defrost systems.

http://www.appliance411.com/faq/howdefrostworks.shtml
Thank you for using FixYa

Jan 20, 2010 | Nor-Lake Freezer Norlake Refrigeration 6'...

1 Answer

Freezer seems to be working fine but fridge is not cold... fridge is on top of freezer, it is a frost free zanussi, not sure which model thou, just coming up to 5 yrs old ? any help would be great thanks


A fan controlled by a thermostat is required to move the cold air from the freezer to the refrigerator for cooling. Use a volt meter testing the voltage on the fan. If you have voltage it is a bad fan. If you do not get a voltage test the thermostat. If it measures zero ohms short the thermal switch or if it is a short open one lead. If the fan works replace the thermal switch.

Sep 01, 2009 | Blueair Freezers

1 Answer

Kenmore freezer upright


The S terminal should read zero when you invert the relay. The M terminal should be zero at all times through the relay. If you follow the coil wires on the relay you will find they go from the line connection to the M terminal. M meaning main or run terminal. When current is drawn through the M terminal it pulls in the contact for start to the S terminal. When the compressor comes up to speed the current drops off and the start contact opens allowing the compressor to continue to run on the M terminal.

Sep 14, 2008 | Freezers

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