Question about Frigidaire Dryers

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Replaced heeting element, and the outlet thermal regulator. i turn the dryer on and it runs for ten seconds and quits. could it be the control assy?

Model number # fase7073lwo

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  • Frigidaire Master
  • 2,614 Answers

I would first take the whole thing apart and check for a lint build-up somewhere in the ductwork inside the machine. This is not really connected to the filter screen you may have that is supposed to be cleaned before each use. This has to do with lint that builds up in the sheet metal or plastic pipes inside the machine, or the ductwork that is between the back of the machine and the outside air.
In the last 6 months, I have found 5 machines that were almost completely plugged up inside with lint, causing this same pronblem.
Be blessed.

Posted on Feb 13, 2014

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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  • 1028 Answers

SOURCE: replacing Kenmore dryer parts

that one is old enough to vote..if filter on top remove back find small hole on right just below top may be hidden by pasted on tech sheet..through hole insert long socket 5/16 or reach up from underneath with short ratchet and socket remove screws and attached wires lift element housing up slightly and pull bottom of housing out and down..5/16 screw on backside holdes element in

Posted on Jun 19, 2008

  • 686 Answers

SOURCE: MAYTAG PYE2300AYW ELECTRIC DRYER running but no heating

you need to take it apart if you'd like call 417-926-0106 i'll walk you through it Jim

Posted on Feb 27, 2009

  • 659 Answers

SOURCE: kenmore dryer electric dryer model 62922 thermal fuse blows

Have you checked the products website for recall info? The Kenmore is a Whirlpool product which of coarse is different than Maytag but they can carry the same internal parts because manufactures will buy from the same vendor. This would probably warrant a call to the company as this could cause a fire. But also, what can cause this issue is continuous small surges in power from the electric company. If you live within proximity of each other, this could be an issue. If you notice your lights blinking even a tiny bit, these are small intermittent surges. They can really mess up the electronics in all appliances. Hopefully this helps.

Posted on Apr 10, 2009

jsrock516
  • 5911 Answers

SOURCE: Dryer doesn't heat

The problem may not be the heating element. The following link explains how to troubleshoot a dryer no heat problem:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r630242-dryer_runs_but_not_heat

First, begin by unplugging the dryer and verifying the voltage at the wall receptacle. You should read 220-240VAC across the two Hot terminals (left and right slots). If the voltage is incorrect, check to make sure you don't have a breaker tripped. Some homes use 2 separate 120VAC breakers to provide power to the receptacle vice using one 240VAC breaker.

If the voltage IS correct, leave the dryer unplugged and remove the cover plate on the terminal block in the back of the dryer (this is where the power cord is installed). Plug the dryer back in and take a voltage reading across the two hot (RED and BLACK) wires at the terminal block. You should read 220-240VAC. If the voltage is good, you have an internal heating problem. If the voltage is bad at the terminal block, but good at the receptacle, you have a bad power cord.

The reason a dryer will still run if the input voltage is incorrect, is because the drive motor only uses a portion of the 220 service. The motor runs off 110-120VAC, while the heating circuits require 220-240VAC. So, if you are missing 1/2 your input voltage due to a tripped breaker or bad power cord, your dryer will exhibit these symptoms.

If you determine the problem to be internal, the heating circuits will either be located in the rear of the washer on the right hand, or under the dryer drum on the right hand side. Usually, an easy way to determine is by the location of the lint screen filter. If the filter is on top of the dryer, the heating circuits are in the back of the dryer. If the lint screen is in the door, the heating circuits are located under the dryer drum. All Kenmore dryers are not constructed the the same. Regardles of location, the Heating Element is located inside the heater box. The Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) will be located on the outside of the heater box on the end opposite the heating element terminals. The Hi-Limit Thermostat will be located adjacent to the heating element terminals. If either the TCO or Hi-Limit Thermostat are determined to be bad, replace both components at the same time. That is why these components are commonly sold as a set. Failure to do so may result in premature failure of any parts you replace. All these parts can be found at appliancepartspros.com, searspartsdirect.com, pcappliancerepair.com, or repairclinic.com.

If you have any questions, please let me know. I hope you find this information helpful.

Posted on Aug 10, 2009

  • 152 Answers

SOURCE: I have a Maytag Performa Dryer model #PYE2300AYW

I would guess motor

Posted on Feb 17, 2010

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DRYER NOT HEATING. Heat Element test good. No visible breaks. Tested the Thermal fuse it was bad so we replaced it. The dryer worked about 5 minutes. So we tested everything again and the Thermal Fuse and...


Somehow you are not getting enough air through the dryer to maintain a temperature below the thermal high temp cutout temp. or there is a control problem for the heating element so it may stay on the 5 minutes but like an oven the thermostat turns the element on and off. I hope you understand. There may be a relay that turns the element on and off, but the contacts have "frozen" or welded themselves together. If so that's your problem. Or there is another device with a similar problem. Unplug, trace the 220vac wires to controls and the heating element. Double check wiring. the Safety devices may be 110vac rated and 220vac is going through so won't hold the power flow. Hope this helps.

Mar 12, 2015 | Samsung DV209AEW Front Load Electric Dryer

3 Answers

Dryer spns but there is no heat


probally the heeting element

Mar 10, 2015 | Samsung Dryers

1 Answer

Starts to heat for about ten seconds then quits heatingundefined


ELECTRIC Dryer no heat or little heat, or shuts down to fast:

Check your venting and lint basket. Check blower for lint build up and blower wheel obstruction., test by trying to turn the wheel manually by hand (should be easy) May have to remove cabinet or front/back plate to get to it)

Next check the heating element itself with a meter for continuity OHMS CLOSED CIRCUIT. If not its defective or has a short if its grounding out? Which in turns causes blown fuses or thermostats or
overheating.

The heating elements are located inside the heater ducts. If you think a heating element is faulty, test it with avolt-ohm-multimeter (VOM)set to the RX1 scale. Disconnect the leads from the power terminals and clip one probe of the VOM to each terminal. The meter should read about 12 ohms. If the reading is higher ohms, the heater is faulty and should be replaced. Replace a faulty heater with a new one of the same type and electrical rating. A heater connected to a 115-volt line usually has an 8.4-ohm resistance; a heater connected to a 220-volt line usually has 11 ohms resistance.


Check dryer Terminal block prongs both outside prongs should give combined 220, and 110 each if u check 1 outside & 1 center (ground) prong. Also check house electrical outlet for full voltage. 220 because if u only get half or 110 volts you will be able to run the machine which uses only 110 to run motor but not the heater which uses a full 220,

Check the thermal cut off, the cycling and the hi limit thermostats.
For continuity or OHMS. If no ohms or resistance they need replacement.

In some dryer's the control panel relies on a thermistor rather than a CYCLING thermostat to regulate the drum's air temperature by monitoring the component's resistance changes; resistance goes down as temperature increases and up when temperature decreases. Once the drum's air temperature reaches a certain level required to dry clothes, the control panel shuts off the heater. The panel will turn the heater on again and begin another heating cycle when the thermistor indicates that more heat is needed to keep the air temperature constant inside the drum

Lastly check your moister sensor. ( located inside the dryer door usually) Especially if machine seems to shut down early and clothes are still wet.
Test with a meter at room temperature and it should show continuity.
A failed moisture sensor will affect the dryer run time in the automatic moisture sensing cycle but it will not affect the heating of the dryer or the timed cycle. Which are reflected by the thermostats.

Read more :http://www.ehow.com/info_12203962_check-dryer-thermistor.htmlGOD IS So GOOD !!!!

Sep 25, 2014 | Dryers

1 Answer

Why is my dryer running, but not heating up or drying the clothes?


ELECTRIC Dryer no heat or little heat, or shuts down to fast:

Check your venting and lint basket. Check blower for lint build up and blower wheel obstruction., test by trying to turn the wheel manually by hand (should be easy) May have to remove cabinet or front/back plate to get to it)

Next check the heating element itself with a meter for continuity OHMS CLOSED CIRCUIT. If not its defective or has a short if its grounding out? Which in turns causes blown fuses or thermostats or overheating.

Check dryer Terminal block prongs both outside prongs should give combined 220, and 110 each if u check 1 outside & 1 center (ground) prong. Also check house electrical outlet for full voltage. 220 because if u only get half or 110 volts you will be able to run the machine which uses only 110 to run motor but not the heater which uses a full 220,

Check the thermal cut off, the cycling and the hi limit thermostats.
For continuity or OHMS. If no ohms or resistance they need replacement.

In some dryer's the control panel relies on a thermistor rather than a CYCLING thermostat to regulate the drum's air temperature by monitoring the component's resistance changes; resistance goes down as temperature increases and up when temperature decreases. Once the drum's air temperature reaches a certain level required to dry clothes, the control panel shuts off the heater. The panel will turn the heater on again and begin another heating cycle when the thermistor indicates that more heat is needed to keep the air temperature constant inside the drum

Lastly check your moister sensor. ( located inside the dryer door usually) Especially if machine seems to shut down early and clothes are still wet.
Test with a meter at room temperature and it should show continuity.
A failed moisture sensor will affect the dryer run time in the automatic moisture sensing cycle but it will not affect the heating of the dryer or the timed cycle. Which are reflected by the thermostats.

Read more :http://www.ehow.com/info_12203962_check-dryer-thermistor.html

Jun 23, 2014 | Kenmore Dryers

1 Answer

Sears dryer, model# 110.87562601.


ELECTRIC Dryer no heat or little heat, or shuts down to fast:

Check your venting and lint basket. Check blower for lint build up and blower wheel obstruction., test by trying to turn the wheel manually by hand (should be easy) May have to remove cabinet or front/back plate to get to it)

Next check the heating element itself with a meter for continuity OHMS CLOSED CIRCUIT. If not its defective or has a short if its grounding out? Which in turns causes blown fuses or thermostats or overheating.
Check dryer Terminal block prongs both outside prongs should give combined 220, and 110 each if u check 1 outside & 1 center (ground) prong. Also check house electrical outlet for full voltage. 220 because if u only get half or 110 volts you will be able to run the machine which uses only 110 to run motor but not the heater which uses a full 220,
Check the thermal cut off, the cycling and the hi limit thermostats.
For continuity or OHMS. If no ohms or resistance they need replacement.

In some dryer's the control panel relies on a thermistor rather than a CYCLING thermostat to regulate the drum's air temperature by monitoring the component's resistance changes; resistance goes down as temperature increases and up when temperature decreases. Once the drum's air temperature reaches a certain level required to dry clothes, the control panel shuts off the heater. The panel will turn the heater on again and begin another heating cycle when the thermistor indicates that more heat is needed to keep the air temperature constant inside the drum

Lastly check your moister sensor. ( located inside the dryer door usually) Especially if machine seems to shut down early and clothes are still wet.
Test with a meter at room temperature and it should show continuity.
A failed moisture sensor will affect the dryer run time in the automatic moisture sensing cycle but it will not affect the heating of the dryer or the timed cycle. Which are reflected by the thermostats.
Read more :http://www.ehow.com/info_12203962_check-dryer-thermistor.html

Jun 23, 2014 | Kenmore Dryers

1 Answer

Electric dryer getting way too hot


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3-5 ACCESS TO THE BLOWER WHEEL OR THERMOSTATS

To get to the blower wheel, remove the back of the dryer.

The blower wheel is under the bottom of the lint screen duct to your left, as you look at the back of the dryer.

The operating thermostats are at the blower wheel outlet.

In electric models, the hi-temperature cutout thermostat is mounted to the heat riser.

3-6 TEMPERATURE CONTROLS AND HI-TEMP SAFETIES

These clothes dryer machines use operating thermostats to control the temperature inside the drum, and hi-limit thermostats to prevent overheating of the dryer drum.. Many machines also have extra temperature controls, such as bias thermostats and heaters, hi-temperature cutoffs, and thermal fuses.

Bias thermostats are just like regular operating thermostats, except that they are mounted inside a bias heater. When the bias heater is energized, it generates a small amount of heat, which causes the operating thermostat to open sooner, keeping the dryer drum cooler inside. Thus a bias heater allows a single operating thermostat to act like both a hi-temp and a lo-temp operating thermostat.

A thermal fuse is found on the blower outlet, right next to the operating thermostat(s.) This fuse will blow when too high a temperature is sensed at the outlet; usually when one of the operating thermostats has failed. If it blows, the motor may not start, or you may get no heat (no voltage to the burner.)

A thermal cut-off is mounted on the clothes dryer heater box. It is a back-up for the hi-limit thermostat. Whenever you replace it, you should replace the hi-limit thermostat, too. A high-temperature condition causes it to open, an overheated grounded heat element may also cause it to open.

Dec 01, 2013 | Kenmore Elite HE4 Electric Dryer

1 Answer

My whirlpool dryer comes on and runs good but it wont get hot can you tell me whats the problem


Hello there and welcome to fixya there are several things that could make this dryer not heat up
Here are the most common things

Thermal Fuse

If the dryer doesn\'t heat, but the drum
turns, check the thermal fuse(s). The thermal fuse protects the dryer
from overheating and helps to prevent fires. If the thermal fuse is
blown, it will have to be replaced.




Enter your model number to see parts for your dryer.

Help me find my model number


Gas Valve Solenoid

The gas valve has two or more electric
solenoids which open the valve to let the gas flow into the burner
assembly. If the dryer doesn\'t heat one or more of the solenoids may be
defective. If the igniter glows for 90 seconds but the burner flame
doesn\'t light, replace these coils as a set.


Dryer Igniter


If the dryer doesn\'t heat, the igniter might
be burned out. Check the igniter for continuity with an ohm meter. Dryer
igniters burn out over time, similar to a light bulb.


Heating Element

The heating element on an electric dryer can
burn out over time. If the dryer doesn\'t heat, the element should be
checked for continuity. The heating element cannot be repaired and must
be replaced if defective.


Heating Element Assembly

the heating element assembly on an electric
dryer can burn out over time. If the dryer doesn\'t heat, the element
assembly should be checked for continuity. The heating element assembly
cannot be repaired and must be replaced if defective.

Flame Sensor



Gas dryers have a flame sensor to detect the
heat given off by the flame. If the dryer doesn\'t heat, the flame sensor
might be defective. Check the flame sensor for continuity. This is not
as common as a burned out igniter or thermal fuse.


High Limit Thermostat


Although not common, if the dryer doesn\'t
heat the high limit thermostat can be defective. It can be checked for
continuity. If the thermostat is "open" the dryer doesn\'t heat.


Cycling Thermostat




The cycling thermostat regulates the
temperature of the air in the dryer. If the dryer doesn\'t heat it may be
caused by a defective cycling thermostat. This is not common.


Main Control Board

The main control board is normally not at
fault when the dryer doesn\'t heat. Check all of the other components in
this troubleshooting guide before replacing the main control board. The
main control board cannot be tested easily and must be replaced if it is
defective.


Timer
The timer is normally not at fault if the
dryer doesn\'t heat. In many situations where timers are replaced they
end up being returned. Check all of the more common components in this
troubleshooting guide before replacing the timer

Oct 14, 2013 | Dryers

1 Answer

Hi, Our dryer runs but doesn't heat. We checked the power source, heating element with ohm meter but it was fine. What else should we check? Thanks.


Hi.

If the dryer runs there is no problem with power. If the appliance runs but does not heat the problem is one of the thermal devices. The dryer comprises one thermal fuse, several thermostats and the element. Thermal fuse and thermostats must be checked along with the element.

Start from the thermal fuse. The fuse can be tested reading impedance with a multimeter. If the fuse is open it will read Ohms infinity. In that case replace the fuse. Here the part: ASSY-BRACKET (THERMOSTAT) (Thermal Fuse with Bracket).

The fuse is part n.15 in Diagram one below. Click on the picture to enlarge:

ginko_278.gif

If the fuse is OK, or if replacing the fuse did not help test the thermostats. You have the following parts:

THERMOSTAT - Part 11 in diagram

High Limit Thermostat -Part 13 in diagram

THERMISTOR - Part 27 in diagram

If the appliance is running the door switch should not be the problem. If you need test also the DOOR-SWITCH.

The thermostats can be tested reading impedance. If there is no heat, then one of the thermostats is open and will return Ohms infinity. Other way to test a thermostat is by jumping its contacts and running a controlled cycle to prevent overheating.

Regards.

Ginko

Aug 09, 2011 | Amana NED7200TW Electric Dryer

2 Answers

Dryer still runs it just isn't getting warm


The heating element is wired in series with a thermal cut-off and a high-limit thermostat both located on the heater housing.The thermal cut-off blows open when the high-limit thermostat fails to cycle off in order to regulate the heating element temperature. When the thermal cut-off is blown, power to the element is cut-off and the dryer will not heat. Replacing both thermal cut-off and the high-limit thermostat if the former is indeed blown. Click on the links below for the troubleshooting and repair details.


Troubleshooting Whirlpool and Whirlpool-made Electric Dryers (Filter on Top with Removable Back Panel) Running But Not Heating



Troubleshooting Whirlpool and Whirlpool-made Electric Dryers (With Front Bottom Panel) Running But Not Heating

Jun 18, 2011 | Whirlpool Dryers

1 Answer

Quit heating. when we flipped main breaker and turned it back on the power is not getting from outlet to dryer. What can we do?


This is the most common locations for thermal fuses and heating element on Whirlpool,Kenmore,Estate dryers. Check these fuses for continuity and replace the one that does not have continuityseth765.jpgseth765_0.jpg

Jan 22, 2011 | Whirlpool LER4634J Electric Dryer

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