Question about Heating & Cooling
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Hi there, I just moved
There should be an access panel on the water heater.Take it off and check the temperature setting.If there is insulation covering it,just cut a **** in it,about near the middle toward the front side facing out from where it is,or it could be on the side.Sometimes when a house is on the market,if they turn on the power for shows,the water heater will be turned down completely because it's not being used.If that doesn't work,it ost likely needs a thermocouple.If this does not solve it,please do not approve/disapprove this yet as it will cut off our link,unless your problem is solved 100%.If you have any questions or need more help,just comment here and I will get an autolink to your post and reply ASAP.Good luck,Greg
Posted on Dec 02, 2010
SOURCE: my boiler heating is working
As I understand your question, you have a boiler with a 'summer/winter' hookup for domestic hot water.
Your boiler should run all the time, i.e. not be shut off by you. Your boiler provides hot water for baseboard heat in your home ... possibly through several 'zones' each controlled by an individual thermostat and circulator. Yours may be a steam system. If this is the case, you have radiators not radiant baseboard heaters and no circulators.
Your summer/winter hookup provides a constant supply of domestic hot water. It does this by taking cold water from your water main and passing it through a copper coil which sits inside your boiler and then to your hot water main in your home. Since the coil sits in the hot water at the top of the boiler, it is constantly being heated. This coil may be in a deteriorated condition in your case or it may be too small for your needs.
Several years ago, I did a small upgrade to my mid 1950's era American Standard boiler. The summer winter hookup in my case was mounted on a 4 inch cast iron boiler plug. The coil was 12 feet long (folded up to a package about 1 foot long). I was very afraid when the plumber came in with what amounted to a 10 foot long pipe wrench. My fear was I would have a pile of broken cast iron at the end of the day. All is well that ends well. He got the old one out and replaced it with a coil that consisted of 20 feet of copper tubing 3/4 inch in size (the folded tubing was about 20 inches long and fit nicely into the boiler). We now have all the hot water a household consisting of one guy and three gals would need in all but the extremest of times..
I think you r answer is here ... replace your summer/winter coil with a new, bigger coil.
Something else I did. My kitchen is 60 feet (pipe wise) from the boiler. It takes a long time to get hot water there. I put in a small electric hot water heater just under the kitchen. I put a timer on it so it runs for a couple hours in the morning and a few hours in the afternoon. The hot water line from the boiler serves as the cold water input to the heater. I now enjoy the convenience of quick hot water in the kitchen with the relatively low cost of oil heated water from the boiler as a relatively small cost of electricity.
My winter settings are 160 - 200 and my summer settings are 120 - 150 which seems adequate for our needs.
Thanks for your question at FixYa.com. I hope I have been of assistance to you today.
Posted on Feb 05, 2011
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Need to know more about the system... zone valves ot pumps....indirect hot water tank or internal coil??
Here is a tip that I wrote that may shed some light on things for you...
In most cases problems with the circulator pump boil down to two problems.
The most common is air in the lines causing an air lock.
The next problem is that the pump gets stuck and is not running even though it may be hot and seem to be running. In this cause the pump can sometimes be taken apart, cleaned and it will work, but usually it needs to be replaced.
Here is a tip that I wrote that will explain circulator pump problems in more detail.
Heating Circulating Water Pump Problems
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