- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
Those tires and rims on the Kawasaki mule are extremely hard to change! To break the bead I use an impact hammer (metal tube with heavy rod going through it.) I have used a long pry bar or long crow bar. Step on the tire next to the rim and squirt a soap solution between the rim and the tire bead... do this all the way around the tire. Set the crow bar upright on the tire next to the rim and a couple of good hits on the top end of the crow bar should give you a little room between the tire bead and the rim.Just get a little room between the rim and tire bead, slip the crowbar between the rim and tire bead letting the other end of the crow bar rest on a piece of wood, and smack the crow bar next to the rim with a sledge hammer. Don't hit the rim!!! You can lay a short piece of two by four on top of the end of the crow bar to give you a better target. You'll need to do this around the circumference of the tire until the bead is broken all the way around the tire. Again, Don't damage the rim!! Take a short break, because you'll need to do the same thing for the other side of the tire!
Break's over... Lay the tire with the short lobe of the rim up, (the deep side of the rim down), and use your crow bar to lever the tire bead over the rim. The side of the tire you're not prying on should sit in the valley between the bead lobes. use another tool (long screwdriver or such to keep the tire from slipping back down over the rim. keep levering the tire off of the rim. Do the same for the other tire bead making sure the other side of the tire stays in the valley between the bead lobes. Installing the new tire is just the opposite of removing the old one. Don't be afraid of using the soap solution to install the new tire, and be careful not to damage the bead area of the tire (The bead is where the tire touches the rim, and any damage there will cause an air leak). You'll get a workout doing this job!!
It starts from 3, 4, or 5 piece sets. lids and saucers are separate. 3 piece set will have a plate, cup, and saucer. 4 piece includes a salad plate and 5 pieces also include either a bread and butter plate or a soup bowl. english dinnerware will usually have 7 pieces: dinner plate, salad plate, bread and butter plate, cup, saucer, soup bowl and stand. The number of setting you buy depends on the number of people in your family or the number of people you plan to have in your family in the future. It also depends on how much entertaining you do.
Rim-shaped plates originated in Europe. In the West, food portions are cut into bite-size pieces at the table, and the rim-shaped plate is made with a well that collects the juices that flow from the food. Coupe-shaped plates have no rim and accommodate the way food is cooked and served in the East. In the East food is cut into bite-size pieces in the kitchen and cooked quickly over high heat. To allow space for the courses on one plate, the diameter of the coupe-shaped dinner plate is approximately 1 inch larger than that of the rim-shaped dinner plate. -http://www.etiquettescholar.com
The maximum pressure on most small compressors is 10 bar or 1000kpa which is about 145 psi in the old language most safety valves are set to 150 psi. I suggest you get some one to reduce the pressure switch setting. Running a compressor at elevated pressures does not give you any more air. A reasonable pressure for small compressors is 120 psi
Assuming that the nail head not setting in and adjusting depth control does not remedy. Usually occurs when the tip breaks off. Remove the head and pull out the driver to examine tip. If tip broken or bent, replace with new or try to adjust as needed. If about 1/16 of tip broken, reshape the driver so that the tip is just slightly wider than nail head, taper the lower 1/4 inch on the side of the driver that faces the nails so that the driver will only strike one nail and reduce (shave) the size of the lower bumper so that the driver will extend out same amount that you need due to broken tip(only works if 1/16 -1/8 broke off).
To increase the life of your compressor you will need to lower the pressure setting of your pressure switch, or replace it with new one that will cut-out at 120. Most compressors have the pressure switch set to cut-out at about 125 psi. Lately, I have seen compessors being sold with factory set pressure from 150 to 200psi. Most single stage compressors can easily handle 120 to 125, however higher pressures are pushing the motor/pump to the limits. This is like driving your car at full speed everywhere you drive. Your car lasts many years because for the most part, you are only uning 20 to 40 % of capacity. Problem is that pressure switch is not really designed to be adjusted (factory set) but not impossible. Look for model number of the pressure switch itself and google for more info. If in fact it cannot be adjusted replace it with generic switch at lower setting. The lower the pressure cut-out , longer life of motor pump. Tiny hole in head is an unloader of sorts and helps the motor to overcome head pressure (yes, this method is less efficient than using pressure switch with unloader valve, however cheaper to build).
After 16 years, I should think you had your money's worth from this machine.
There are a few arguments for fixing it, if it's repairable, but a new one will be more powerful while being more efficient too. (use less electric)
Less radiation leakage too.. (pacemaker exposure?)
Perhaps you should first try shopping around to see if you find one that you like, and that fits in the space you have for it, etc. If you buy a new one, get a good one. Don't go cheap.
If one seems to make good sense to you, then buy it. If nothing looks good to you then find a repair shop to take old one to.
Why would you keep old one? Well first of all, they don't make them like they used to. Lot of new ones are noisy and rattle a lot. Don't last nearly as long. Many new ones have problems early.
Old ones are lower power, which is slower, BUT food heats more evenly because of it. Less prone to exploding food.
You most likley have a damaged inside door handle. To remove the door panel, you must first remove the handle bezel. The trim piece around the handle. It is held in place by 4 retainer tabs, take a small flat screw driver, insert it between the bezel and handle. Gently pry away from the handle. If you look in the crack around the handle you will see the tabs. When you get that off, remove the switch assembly by prying up on it gently, unplug the wiring. There are 2 screws in the door panel where you pull the door shut, remove those also. Start at the bottom front of the door panel, pull outward firmly, but not violent. The retainers will come out, you will most likley break some, this is common. The inside handle is about $45 from your dealer. If it is the handle it is held in with 1 rivit, drill it out with a 3/16 drill. Replace the handle, reassemble. Good Luck.
Notice how the hose has a groove just around the outer edge of the gray plastic near the white plastic insert. The hose is held into the handle buy two "tongues" inserted into this groove. One of these tongues is on the end of the top plastic piece of the handle. The second is on the piece of plastic that is slid into the little hole at the base of the handle and it is visible in the picture.
To remove the first, you'll have to remove the two screws in the top of the handle that hold the top plastic piece. This can be a challenge unless you have the right tool. It's essentially a hex-star allen wrench tool that is required, I'm guessing about 1/16 inch. I had one in my tool box that fit. Remove the screws and pop the top plate off. This frees the first tongue from the groove. Now, just get a screw driver (or use your finger) to press the plastic piece inserted in the hole at the bottom of the handle. Press from the "t" side and this should slide right out. Now your hose will slide right out of the handle and you can replace the old with new. Re-insert the small plastic insert, and refasten the top plastic piece of the handle and you're good to go.