Question about Whirlpool Washing Machines
I have a whirlpool gold cabrio platinum series top loading washing machine. My lid won't stay up by itself anymore and feels extra heavy. What can I do to fix it?
Posted by Anonymous on
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
I have the manual if you need help, but the mechine is simple to use, just put the fabric conditioner in the top of the thing in the middle (inside the machine) the bleach dispenser is is just for bleach. You just get a cup of washing poweder and throw it in!
Posted on Dec 26, 2009
that is very possible.the best thing to do is replace the lid or sand all the rust off and you some rust inhibitive paint to helpslow or stop the rusting proccess.
Posted on Jan 23, 2010
The most common cause of the problem you just described is a lid
switch malfunction or lid strike (actuator) problem. Symptoms may
include, filling and stopping on the intial fill cycle, stopping right
after the wash cycle, not advancing to rinse or spin cycles, and a wash
tub that will not drain.
The lid switch is usually mounted under the washer top casing, on the right hand side on most top load models. It is activated by a plastic piece on the lid (called a "Lid Strike" or "Actuator") through a small hole on the rim of the wash tub opening. In many cases the lid strike breaks off the lid, or the lid switch becomes loose and no longer makes contact. Inspect the lid to make sure the lid strike is still intact, and then inspect the mounting screws (adjacent to the small opening on the wash tub rim) and make sure they are snug. If you determine the switch to be defective, the following link explains how to replace one:
On some models, the lid switch is located under the top casing by one of the lid hinges. You will know if you if you have this type of switch, because it does NOT have a lid strike (actuator) and the small hole on the right hand side of the wash tub will not be present. This type of switch is actuated (toggled) by a rod on the lid hinge. With this type of switch, if you locate it and it can be toggled by hand, you may only need to adjust the actuator rod by bending it slightly.
NOTE: You do not have to drain or bail the water from the washer tub to perform this repair. Once a defective lid switch is replaced, the washer should drain normally.
Replacement parts (if required) can be purchased at any of the following web sites:
NOTE: Banging on the machine or slamming the lid can actually cause more harm than good. You can dislodge the washer casing from the frame, damage the lid, or damage the fragile lid switch and associated components.
The average price of a replacement lid switch is about $20 - $30 if you perform the repair yourself. If the model number is correct, the part number for a replacement switch is 8054980. The RIGHT lid hinge acts as the actuator for the switch. Prices vary between sites so shop and compare. If you have questions, or need additional assistance, please post back and let me know. This is a very simple repair that you can easily perform without the assistance of a repairman.
If you have any questions, please post back and let me know. I hope this helps you.
If this advice does not help you enough, repairclinic.com has a Repair Manual you can order to assist you with all your repairs. The part number is 1170635 and is priced at about $20.
Searspartsdirect.com also has a repair manual for about the same price. Part number 4314044L. I hope this information is helpful to you.
Posted on Aug 15, 2010
First of all, unplug your washer. You will need to remove the console in order to get to the lid switch. The washer may have release tabs under the console at each front corner. Simply slide a putty knife straight in from the front at each corner and push in while lifting up. You should feel the release tabs push in and the console will pop up. If not equipped with this type of console, you may have a console that has removable end caps. They can be removed by gently prying up on the top of them from the rear on each side. You may have to use a small screwdriver for this. The caps should pop right off. Once removed, you will need to loosen a screw under each cap. Once you have the console loosened, carefully lift it up and lay it back over the rear panel of the washer in its resting position. Be careful not to damage the small plastic hinges that hold it in place. Now you will need to perform the following steps:
1. Under the console you will find the lid switch connector. Unplug the switch from the connector.
2. There will be two brass colored clips. You will need to remove these to remove the machine casing. Place a flat blade screwdriver straight down into the opening on top of the washer and into the groove of the clip. Push the screwdriver away from you while holding into the groove and the clip will release.
3. Open the lid of the washer and place your hand under the front rim of the opening (DO NOT grab the wash tub). Now pull the case from the frame by lifting from the back first.
You do not have to remove it all the way from the frame, just enough to gain access to the switch. All there is to the switch is a couple of screws holding it in and a ground wire. It's a pretty easy repair job. Some models will have the switch located on the right-hand side of the lid rim opening, while other models will have the switch located on the left-hand side near the lid hinge.
Once you've completed your switch installation, make sure you get the case back on the frame correctly by following these steps:
1. While looking down through the lid opening, place the front lip of the machine case UNDER the washer frame and start leaning it back onto the frame. There are four small cleats that must fit into four slots on the case or the washer will vibrate. Make sure the frame is seated properly, lean forward from the front of the washer, grasp both sides of the rear panel and pull towards the case. The rear panel should be seated and flush with the casing before inserting the retaining clips.
2. Insert the brass-colored clips into the slot on the washer rear panel first, and then push straight down into the opening on the top of the washer with some force. If you have the case seated correctly, the clips will snap back in.
3. Make sure you plug the connector from the console back into the lid switch receptacle BEFORE you reassemble the console. This is easy to forget.
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Posted on Sep 11, 2010
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