Question about Frigidaire Ovens

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Oven will start to heat up and then display will not work so cannot turn oven on. WIll turn back on by self about 20 min later

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  • Frigidaire Master
  • 5,323 Answers

Oven comes on and off intermittently or heats very little:

If the timer feature is activating and you have not touched the timer button at all, this would have to be a failed Electronic Oven Control. The timer button is either shorting at times or closing on its own from heat or moisture. The Electronic Oven Control would need to be replaced to repair the problem.

Or Why does it take the oven so long to bake?
When the food is taking way too long to bake, it's probably a weak bake ignitor. Replacing the ignitor usually fixes this problem, but you probably want to verify that the ignitor is the problem before replacing it.

Sometimes the oven thermostat or oven sensor can be calibrated wrong, or it may be faulty. If your particular range has an oven that uses an electronic thermostat, and the oven temperature is off by tens of degrees, you probably have to replace it.
On most units that have a mechanical thermostat, you can actually remove the thermostat knob, and adjust the knob to more accurately represent the actual setting of the thermostat. On many models, there's a screw on the back of the knob with a small calibration plate or ring. You can loosen this screw and adjust the calibration plate. Remember to tighten the screw again. If yours isn't adjustable, and the temperature is off by a large amount, you should just replace the thermostat.

Or Oven safety valve needs to be checked with multi meter ohms / voltage

ALSO Test the Burner Heating Element The stove's burner heating element is a coil of metal sheathed in an insulator. Electrical current travels through the element. Resistance to the passing of electrical current causes the element to heat up. A precise temperature cannot be set for a burner, instead it is turned on and off repeatedly by the control to the achieve an average temperature. When it is set to a low temperature, the element is cycled on and off more frequently. For high temperatures, the heating element is energized longer with fewer on and off cycles. Some burners have two elements, with the second only being used only for high heat settings.
Before testing the heating element, unplug the appliance or shut off the power at thefuseboxorbreaker panelto avoid an electrical shock hazard.
When a burner does not heat at all, or only heats up to a lower than expected temperature, the problem is likely to be with the heating element, the temperature control switch, or the wiring. If it only heats at the highest temperature, the problem is with the control or an electrical short, not the burner. If the burner works only intermittently, the problem is likely in the wiring or connectors. To test the heating element, try the following steps.
First, disconnect the heating element from the stovetop. In most cases, this is done by lifting up the burner on the side opposite of the terminals (the part of the burner that disappears under the stovetop). Remove the decorative ring.
Inspect the style of connection. If the burner element has visible blades that fit into the receptacle block, pinch the block with one hand, and pull the heating element free with your other hand. If the terminal block clamps over the element, the housing must be removed and the burner wires disconnected. Unsnap the metal piece or remove the screw that secures the receptacle block and then disconnect the element.
Inspect the heating element. If you find bubbles, warping, or damage to the insulation sheath, the burner must be replaced. If the terminals are dirty or corroded, this can cause poor temperature control, intermittent problems or complete failure to heat. Clean the terminals with steel wool or very fine sand paper to restore good conductivity.
Test theresistanceof the heating element using amulti meter. Set the multi meter to the ohms setting X1 and touch one probe to each of the terminals. A normal reading is typically somewhere between 20 and 120 ohms. The exact reading differs by manufacturer and mode. If the meter reads infinite resistance or the other extreme of the scale, zero resistance, then the element is damaged and should be replaced. If the measured resistance differs significantly from the expected range, the element is probably bad, but if possible, determine from the manufacturer what the actual resistance should be.
To test for a grounded or shorted element, touch one probe to the surface of the burner and the other probe to each terminal in turn. If you get continuity at any time, the heating element is defective and should be replaced.

Why is the oven temperature incorrect?

The oven temperature control is usually controlled by a thermostat that uses a capillary and liquid filled bulb. When the bulb's liquid gets heated up, it expands and puts pressure on a diaphragm which opens and closes a switch that controls the gas to the burner. Just set the dial to what you need the temperature to be. Over time, it is possible for your thermostat to lose its calibration. Sometimes, the thermostat sensing bulb comes loose from the holder. If it is out of place, the thermostat may be getting faulty readings. If this is the problem, re-aligning the bulb properly will take care of this problem.

Digital display models use a sensor to control temperature. If this is faulty, replace it. Other ovens use a mechanical system to control the temperature.

On many models, you can adjust your oven thermostat using a small screwdriver. The adjusting screw is located on the thermostat valve stem. Remove the knob and you'll see the screw underneath it. You want to turn the oven on and run it through at least two cycles while watching a calibrating thermometer in the oven for high and low temperatures. Adjust the screw as necessary to fine tune the temperature.

Some models don't have an adjustable thermostat, and you will have to replace the thermostat if you want to resolve the problem.

Posted on Apr 17, 2015

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
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SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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catriver
  • 878 Answers

SOURCE: Our oven's heating elements will not come on althought the display seems to work correctly.

Wekiwa, your TCO, (thermal cutout) probably opened during the high temps in self clean. You will have to remove the back panel and replace it. It should be just under the vent back there. Part number 4450934. You can ohm it out first to make sure, it will show open (no continuity) if bad. This is an easy job, won't take you that long. Kill power to the range before going back there. In doing a little more research on your model, I see there was a service flash where they recomend moving the TCO over to one side so the cleaning cycle doesn't affect the TCO. This may be covered by Whirlpool. You might want to call them and inquire. Catriver..post back.

Posted on Dec 18, 2006

SOURCE: cleaned oven now won't heat

Probably what happened is during cleaning cycle the oven overheated the tco (thermo cut off). This is a thermo-fuse that is located behind the control board. It will need to be replaced.

Posted on Aug 25, 2007

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: "door lock" light stays on and oven won't work

Same problems. When I removed the lock operating arm nothing happened. Motor is not operating. I've temporarily kluged it by tying the "unlock" (upper) switch circuit together and disconnecting one side of the power to the "locked" (lower) switch. At least we'll have an oven to use, but I'll have to come back and remove the lock motor assembly to find out what's really wrong.
BTW, if some knows those keyed-in service codes they could be useful.

Posted on Oct 28, 2008

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Oven will not heat up on bake broil or convection cook.

I justn encountered the same problem (Model KERS507Y). Haven't checked yet...but am suspecting the Thermal fuse. Have you solved the problem?

Posted on Apr 09, 2009

milten1
  • 1304 Answers

SOURCE: SLOW HEATING OVEN

you may want to check your broil element
turn the unit on and wait a few minutes
see if you can feel the heat from the upper broiler elemnet
some model use both elements to preheat
i dont have your productiuon number so i cannot be sure with your model
anyway
14-20 mins is the industry standard for a 350 preheat...

Posted on Oct 25, 2009

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