Question about LG Dryers
We have unplugged it for hours and when we plug it back in it works for awhile and then back to the problem..
I have an educated guess for you. A part of each control of a washer and a dryer is a little electric "clock". Those things can fail. I sounds like you may have a timer clock that is sticking and not advancing.
These " clocks" are a part of the times, and are not sold separately.
One way to possible tell would be to put your ear to the area of the control panel where the timer is and listen. Most of those "clocks" tick, and you can often hear them, or you can watch the dial, and it should advance with a click every so often.
Posted on Feb 13, 2014
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Mine shows a faint light behind the control locked indicator and the timer is dimly lit on the two middle horizontal bars (middle of the eights). They go off by pushing various button combos. If I unplug it for a week I can get the control to work for a few minutes.
I replaced the control board, it worked for 5 minutes, then back to nothing. I want to replace the interface but would rather not waste any more money.
I dont want to check every wire for continuity. If someone has fixed this problem, please let me know.
Posted on Aug 15, 2008
i am sending you all the possibilities for your problem, check either of these causes ----and than let me know if it is solved----
Power from the house
Check to see whether there's power getting to the dryer. Is it plugged in? Check for blown fuses or tripped circuit breakers--your dryer uses two fuses or circuit breakers. The dryer could tumble but not heat if only one of the two fuses is blown. If you have circuit breakers, one of the two circuit breakers can trip, even if the two for the dryer are connected.
Often a dryer heating element burns out, but doesn't trip the circuit breaker or blow a fuse. The heating element is simply a long coil of special wire. You can check it for continuity with an ohm meter. No continuity means the element is bad and you need to replace it--electric heating elements aren't repairable.
On many dryers, there's a thermal fuse mounted to the exhaust duct inside the back cover panel. The fuse--which is about an inch long--is usually embedded in black resin and mounted in a white plastic housing. If the fuse has blown, you need to replace it. (You can't re-set it.)
A common problem is for the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, to burn and break its connection. Because the dryer can still tumble with partial power, the connection may be only partially defective. You may need to replace both the power cord to the dryer and the terminal block inside the dryer that the wire is attached to.
Posted on Dec 12, 2008
I doubt it is your motor that is causing the problem. It's always nice when someone says that it is the most expensive part to fix and that is the only solution. It's an electric dryer and there are tons of things that could be causing the issue for you. It sounds like the problem is probably the thermostat. What this does is shuts off the dryer if the heat is getting to high in the dryer. It is a safety feature to prevent it from catching on fire. It is a easy and cheap fix. The thermostat is located usually somewhere near the heating element housing and only costs around 20 dollars at any appliance repair shop. There is a wire diagram located behind the backing of your control panel. Just remove the few screws and take off the housing. It will help you locate the thermostat. If the motor was the problem your dryer wouldn't shut off the way it is. The thermostat is just shutting it down for safety and that is why you need to keep unplugging it to reset it. Change it out and it should work just fine for you. If you have any other questions let me know and good luck to you.
Posted on Jan 22, 2009
IT SOUNDS AS THOUGH THE MOTOR IS OVERHEATING AND SHUTTING ITSELF OFF. THAT IS ABOUT THE ONLY THING ON THE DRYER THAT WOULD SHUT IT OFF AND NOT ALLOW IT TO START AGAIN RIGHT AWAY, BUT LET IT START AFTER A WHILE. MAKE SURE THE MOTOR TURNS FREELY. IT SHOULD NOT DRAG OR HUMM WHEN TRYING TO START.
Posted on Jan 28, 2009
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