Question about Whirlpool Refrigerators
Water running down back of inside
Posted by Anonymous on
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of.(from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones)
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
Posted on Jan 02, 2017
there is a drain hole at back of your fridge on the inside which is probely blocked take out the shelfs you should see a channel in the middel that where the drian hole is situated unblock the drain hole[DO NOT USE A SHAPE INSTRUMENT ]hope helps
Posted on Sep 20, 2007
This ia a common problem that indicates the drain from freezer is clogged or blocked. I will send you to another link to help explain how to resolve this, Thanks, Sea Breeze
Posted on Apr 27, 2009
Not an original solution - but a good one. Remove panels at the back of the freezer compartment to expose the heater unit or heater wire that defrosts the freezer coils and wrap a solid copper wire gently around the heater/ heater wire and place the loose end in the drain. This will conduct heat to the freezer drain and help keep it open. I did see a manufactured part in one of the appliance parts websites but it did not match my unit.
Posted on Jun 09, 2009
Your evaporator coils frost up in normal use
and every eight hours or so the entire unit shuts down and the defrost heater
comes on to melt the frost. This cycle last about 20 minutes. The melted frost
drips into a drain pan and through a drain tube to the drain tray under the
freezer/refrigerator where it's evaporated by the condenser fan.
Your drain tube may be stopped up with ice at the upper end because it drains too slow because it's stopped up at the lower end in the evaporator pan under the unit at the floor. It can get dust and mold in it. Once you get the ice out at the top a little pressure with a turkey baster will usually clear it out. Flushing it out with hot water and clorox may help.
Make sure it drains quick enough to prevent refreezing. . The drain should be located below the evaporator coils on the lower back of the freezer.
The evaporator coil behind the cover on the back wall inside the freezer will ice up under normal conditions. Every 8 to 10 hours for around 20 minutes the defrost timer (or in most newer models the electronic adaptive defrost control) will turn the defrost heater on to melt the built up ice. There is a defrost thermostat which prevents the heater from overheating the freezer by breaking the heater circuit when the temp reaches close to 32 degrees F. The entire cooling system shuts off during the defrost cycle and starts back when the timer advances through the cycle.
If this ice is not melted it will continue to build up until the air can’t flow over the coil to circulate the cold air through the freezer and into the fridge. The temperature change in the fridge is usually noticed first followed by the freezer.
If the defrost thermostat is bad it can prevent the heater from coming on OR it won’t turn the heater off when it gets too warm. It is clamped to the evaporator coil at the top to sense the temp. If it appears to be misshapen it is bad.
With an ohm meter it should show continuity when cold and none when warm.
You can also bypass the thermostat to see if the heater comes on then. If it does then you know the thermostat is bad and needs replaced.
The defrost heater is located on the evaporator. It is in a tube which is at the bottom and can also go up the sides of the evaporator. On some types you can see a burnt spot if it’s bad. With an ohm meter it should show continuity from end to end when disconnected from the wiring in the freezer. You can also test the wiring for voltage when it’s in the defrost mode.
If you have a defrost timer you can test it. It can be located under the fridge behind the kick panel on the front. Some are in the fridge with the controls at the top. You can turn the defrost timer till it clicks and everything shuts down. The heater should now come on. If it does, replace the timer because that means the timer is not running. If it doesn't, check the heater and defrost thermostat. Turn the timer again till everything starts back up to end the defrost cycle.
If you have an adaptive defrost control instead of a timer, replace it if the heater and thermostat test good. It is located in the fridge with the controls in some models and on the back in others.
If you need help finding your model number see here> http://www.appliancepartspros.com/modelnumber_locator.aspx
To locate your timer, motherboard, control or adaptive defrost control , enter your model number and search for the part or post back on Fixya.
Posted on Oct 01, 2009
Tips for a great answer:
Aug 11, 2015 | Refrigerators
Jul 26, 2011 | Amana Refrigerators
Jan 21, 2011 | Microwave Ovens
Dec 23, 2009 | Maytag MSD2756G Side by Side Refrigerator
Oct 22, 2009 | Refrigerators
Jul 07, 2009 | Refrigerators
Feb 26, 2009 | Whirlpool Refrigerators
Dec 02, 2008 | Whirlpool Refrigerators
Jun 06, 2008 | Refrigerators
Jan 06, 2008 | KitchenAid KSSP42QKS Side by Side...
12 people viewed this question
Usually answered in minutes!