Question about Pool & Spa
Hi, Lori Thanks for the question. It sounds as though your tub froze over and tripped the freeze sensor. If the freeze caution is gone and the tub will not rise to temp, either 1 of the heat sensors or heating element has gone bad. With a bad element or sensor you should have an error code on your topside display. At this point I would recommend contacting a Spa Technician, unless you have some spa repair knowledge or feel comfortable attempting a self repair. I hope I was able to help, Thanks again!
Posted on Feb 18, 2014
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Is there anything else on the same breaker? Is that the proper amperage for the pump? How long has the pump been in service? It may need to be cleaned as possible obstruction causing too much strain.
Posted on Dec 28, 2008
SOURCE: no power to hot tub...
In all liklihood, your problem is a breakdown in the insulation of the heating element. The elements tend to be mineral insulated then metal jacketed. Once you get a bit of corrosion on the jacket and a little water gets into the mineral powder, it's insulation properties fall off sharply, shorting out the power supply.
There are two practical ways of testing this:
The pro way of doing it is to borrow a high voltage insulation tester, disconnect the power leads from the element and check the resistance between one of the elements terminals and the jacket. Treat anything less than a megohm as a failure requiring replacement of the element. (nb. This is one of those rare cases where you need to use a proper insulation tester - an ordinary multimeter often fails to find this problem)
The alternative is just to replace the element and see how much difference it makes.
Posted on May 25, 2009
By code, this would require underground cable to a breaker panel with a double pole GFI (maybe that's what you were planning). Then from the breaker panel to outlets, pumps, etc.
40 amp breaker will require 8 AWG cable.
More info, let me know...
Posted on Aug 23, 2009
Testimonial: "BY CODE, means it's the law!!! I didn't want to cut thru my black-top driveway. It's about 130 feet around the yard to the hot tub."
your ozonator may have condensation water in it, try unplugging it and using a hairdryer to dry it out, otherwise you will need a replacement ozonator (i know where to get these at dealer cost if you need one). When replacing ozonator, make sure you request the correct plug type depending on if you have the white plugs or gray plugs that plug into either the side of your spa pack or the circuit board.
Good job on isolating the problem by unplugging each component when a circuit breaker trips. Next, your filter cycle is most likely set on constant filtration, you will need to reset it to 2-4 hours per 12 hour cycle. Don't put it in standby, leave it run in standard mode. Hope this helps,
Posted on Apr 09, 2010
These older style controls are easily repaired but require some electrical diagnosis expertise to determine the problem.
1. Check the pressure switch to make sure it is working properly - Use a continuity checker to see if the pressure switch is closed when pump is running. If not then check for proper water flow. Dirty filter, obstruction in plumbing. If flow is good, replace the pressure switch and see if heater works.
2. Check to see if the heater has 220V at the heater terminals when heater circuit is running. If not, then check to see if the heater contactor (relay) is actuating. Check Hi-limit switch, Thermostat and pressure switch for continuity. If heater has voltage, check for current draw, using a clamp style amp meter around on of the heater wires. look for about 20 amps. If voltage is present but no current draw, the heater is bad.
3. The spa light is a completely separate circuit, check the air switch, air line, button and light bulb. Its a 12V AC circuit.
Posted on Apr 16, 2010
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