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Water cant flow out

Hello i have an ardo s1000x wash machine that use to work just fine until some days ago when the water was ant flowing out thru the holes. i removed the filter and cleaned but still not working, what should i do ?

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  • Washing Mach... Expert
  • 517 Answers

Take out the plug
remove all pipes to and from the filter and clean them
the pump could do with a check as well

Posted on Feb 12, 2014

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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  • 183 Answers

SOURCE: cold water will not flow into machine

either the valveis faulty or the dispenser box is blocked, remove the internal hose from the valve anf see if you have full pressure at that point if yes box is blocked. Regards Advisor

Posted on Aug 22, 2007

yalmer
  • 549 Answers

SOURCE: whirlpool awm 049 washing machine

If the washer leaks only during the fill cycle, check the following:
Air-gap device: The air gap is a small device found on most washers that prevents the wash water from being siphoned into the household water supply. It's located either mid-way along or at the end of the black rubber hose that comes from the water-inlet valve. Often it's made of translucent plastic. If one of the air-gap components deforms or cracks, you may need to replace it.


The tube:There's a rubber tube that runs between the water-inlet valve and either the air-gap or the inlet spout. If it cracks or breaks, it can cause a leak.


Inlet spout:Most washers have a plastic spout near the top of the main clothes tub that directs the water into the tub. If the spout cracks or breaks free of its mounting, it can cause a leak.


During spin cycle only:
A washer that leaks only during the spin cycle often has a leak in the main drain hose. Look at the entire hose and correct any problem you find. Also, the steel or plastic outer tubs can rust, split, or be punctured. This may be most visible during large loads and high water levels. If this happens, you may have to replace the entire outer tub--but that may not be an economical repair to make.


If the washer leaks all the time, check these:
Hot and cold water fill hoses - Check the hot and cold water hoses from the household plumbing. If either hose is leaking, tighten it or replace it.


Pump: If the pump leaks, you can probably spot the leak when the tub is full of water. The pump has two or more black rubber or plastic hoses attached to it and usually has a drive belt that spins the pump. If the pump is leaking, you need to replace it.

Main tub seal: The main tub seal is located between the transmission and the outer tub. It's the primary water seal in the outer tub for the transmission-shaft entry point. If this seal leaks, you can see the leak by opening up the machine's main access panel while the machine is full of water with a small amount of detergent in it. The leak appears at the underside of the outer tub, at or near the center. This seal is difficult to replace. You probably should call a qualified appliance repair technician.


Outer tub:The steel or plastic outer tubs can rust, split, develope a hole in some way. If this happens, you may have to replace the outer tub--but that may not be an economical repair to make. Consult a qualified appliance repair technician for further details.

Posted on Feb 07, 2008

TheMobilian
  • 8220 Answers

SOURCE: Kenmore Series 70 washing machine whines and low flow on cold H2O

Yeah you need to replace the water valve. To get to it you need to remove the cabinet on the newer direct drive models, If yours has a rear access panel then you simply pop the top to get to the valve after removing the hoses. Fairly simple job. Here is a good website for direct drive coupling replacement . It shows you how to open the cabinet. http://repair2000.com/coupling.html
GVI 151 is the generic part that fix all belt drive models. Direct drive will need its own little water valve buy hay it ain't but 20 bucks.
For a better explanation post you model number in the comment box and I will research it further for you amigo.

Posted on Jan 21, 2009

  • 215 Answers

SOURCE: water coming out of drawer & door

Hi Gary,It sounds to me that you have a blockage within the pressure systemas this is a classic sign. If you take the top off the machine you will see a round switch with a few wires going to it.This is the pressure switch. at the bottom of this switch is a thin pipe,normally black or clear. there is a small spring clip holding this pipe to the switch, If you remove this pipe and gently blow down it you will probably find it is blocked. You will then need to follow this pipe to the bottom of your machine. At the bottom of the machine where this pipe is fitted you will see there is a chamber and it is this chamber likly to be blocked.Some times you may clear this with a small piece of wire by removing the small pipe and poke wire through, but best way is to see how this chamber is removed and remove it for cleaning.Ensure machine is off at mains. this chamber fills with water and causes air pressure within the switch at the top of machine, which in turn tells programe when machine is full and also when empty. If this fails then machine will not turn off water supply as long as it is on. there fore when you reconnect parts ensure they are tight and clips back in place. Good luck and hope this works. Failing this working you may need to call an engineer to check switch and possible fault on board.

Posted on Feb 13, 2010

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: ARDO washing machine

i should set my machine for washing program manually or is it automatic?

Posted on Apr 04, 2010

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The hot water not flowing into the washer and the cold water flows fine?


Let's think and work this one thru:

Your machine probably has several temperature settings, right?

So-- when you set it for COLD-- it fills at the normal rate?

When you set it for WARM-- does only COLD water still only come in?

And if you set it for HOT-- Nothing comes in?-- correct?

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Now lets get to the pipes in the back:
Is there a Laundry sink, or a hose or something nearby, so you can be sure you have HOT water to the Washing Machine?-- Is the Hot water flowing good and strong nearby the WASHING MACHINE-- WHEN YOU TEST IT?

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

And the Valve is not shut at the Washing machine-- (Hot shut, but cold open?)

~~~~~~~~~~~~~

If you are sure that you have a good supply of HOT water to the machine,--- If you have tested that you actually have a good flow, -- say with the Hose removed, and you run the Hot water into the machine (by-passing the internal control valve!!)--
Then it sounds like: Either the control is not telling the internal solenoid valve to open-- or the valve needs to be replaced.

Do you want to attempt this repair-- or do you want to call for help at this point?

Let me know what you find-- and how far you want to go by yourself.

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