Chain saw was not running on idle, it jammed I though it needed idle adjustment turned the screw and found it would not pull at all.undid cowling and freed the motor with a ring spanner,closed up cowling and now it will not start,when pulling the cord motor response is quite feeble, I think the idle adjustment needs to be reset ..zeroed?
I'm not sure what you mean by jammed. If the engine was hard to pull the cord then you probably tripped the chain brake. Most chainsaws all you do is pull back on the hand guard to reset the brake. If you are adjusting the idle you will need to have it running then turn the screw until you have the desired engine rpms.
SOURCE: chain brake problem
http://www.echo-usa.com/pdf/documentation/CS3000T1T1E_081303.pdf
This is the breakdown of parts for your model,you can see how the brake is, but your problem sounds like the dogs inside the clutch are stuck and causing the chain to constantly engage the chain.
Open the clutch to look at it and see what is causing this.
The idle usually will not cause the clutch to engage, this is usually
a higher rev that engages the clutch.
SOURCE: Ryobi 40cc chain saw, pull cord won't turn engine
If it has ball bearings in the rachet mechanism they may be sticking and need cleaning so they move freely.!
SOURCE: Ryobi 40cc chain saw, pull cord won't turn rotar assembly
I had the same problem with my 18 inch Ryobi saw. The problem is the tabs that engage the recoil to the flywheel are of poor quality steel and they bend out of position. The end result is when you pull tyhe rope it just jumps and wont start. Eaven the new parts do the same thing. Simple soultion is remove the recoil starter four screws require a torx bit or a flat screwdriver. after your remove the recoil starter using a pair of pliers bend the two tabs upwards untill they are not quite straight up (about a 80 degree angle be carefull not ot brake the tab off) once you have done this remove the center nut that holds the flywheel on. the silver pins that hold the tabs in position need to be punched out but remember how they go back by doing only one at a time and remember how the spring is installed. Turn the flywheel over and using a punch and hammer remove the pins. Put the tabs in a vise to hold them sucerly clean the steel as best you can on the inside of the bend. Fill the bend with brazing rod or coat hanger if you haven't got any brazing rod avilable. You don't have to com;leatly fill the bend but put enough in there to suport the tabas so they can't bend agin. Reassemble the saw and you're done. Mine works great now, better than new. This problem isn't limited to recon saws only, mine is a new saw and I still had the problem. Good luck herbdogs
SOURCE: problem aligning the adjustment block of chain tensioning screw
line up the adjustment block and put the screw into the hole. then carefully snug it down and put the cover back.
SOURCE: Carburator adjustment for Homelite xl 12 chain saw
Turn both screws CW to stops (lightly), then back out each CCW 1-1/2 turns. This should get the engine running if it will. If it does not, check the lower diaphragm on the carburetor for hardness or cracking. You appear to be running on prime only--the carburetor doesn't seem to be pumping in fresh fuel. You may need to do a carburetor clean and re-kit. Check the fuel line condition and the fuel filter in the tank for plugging. Make sure the muffler and air cleaner are not plugged. Once you get the engine to continue running, warm the engine up. Open the throttle and adjust the H needle CW--the engine should start to speed up, but still 4-stroking. The proper setting is 4-stroking, but immediately 2-stroke when cutting. Release the throttle and adjust L needle CW so that the engine runs fairly smoothly, yet will allow the engine to 'follow the throttle'. Set idle speed screw so that the chain stops turning, but the engine continues to run. Hope this helps!
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