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Boiler won't start

Called engineer who said it was a tank problem, he fitted a temporary pipe which is coming out of the top of the tank now not at the bottom. The pipe has a little round device before it goes through the wall to the boiler,this has a button on it. There is no oil coming through near the boiler when I tried to bleed it, I have also undone the small nut on the left hand side of the boiler to let any air out (engineers instructions over phone). There is oil coming out of the pipe OK before the small device mentioned earlier, but not a lot when it is put back on, is this right or is this the problem why the boiler won't start. Engineer can't get to us for a few days and l am reluctant to get him back it's costing me too much money, this is the third time he's been! Hoping someone can help me. many thanks.

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  • Expert
  • 148 Answers

This sound like you have water flow problem that restricted the pressure to that switch

Posted on Feb 28, 2014

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heatman101
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SOURCE: flame sputters

Hey welcome to the world of oil burner service!! :-) Theyare a finnicky beast to say the least. The problem you are having sounds like an air mixture problem. A combustion analyser would be the best tool to have but being that you probably don't have that try this. On the left side of the burner as you are looking at it is an air adjust ment ring and a fine tuning ring. the fine tuning ring is probably all you need to adjust. There is a screw that is usually right behind or near the pipe coming out of the pump and going into the burner. Loosen that and turn the ring away from you just a bit to close off some of the air and you will be fine. The burner is running a bit to lean. If you can see the flame turn the adjustment closed just until the flame color turns from a almost white color to a slightly orange color. Then you should be fine. Good luck!!

Posted on Nov 15, 2009

  • 2458 Answers

SOURCE: gas engineer wants to re-arrange coals correctly post service

yes he is right on that the postion off the coals have to be in the correct pstion to stop fire sooting and fumes coming from fire , if the coals are in postion you take them out and put them back the same as they came out , or there should be a picture of the coal lay out in the users book , or look on line for the make of fire , if the gas engneer cannot work this out then go to some one who can ,

this is basic gas fitting any gas fitter will know this if not walk away from them ,

hope this helps

Posted on Feb 07, 2009

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SOURCE: my worcester 240 combi boiler. when heating goes

check the water pressure on the combi could be low or in the back of your manuel there is a fault finding guide which is very good and simple to follow .

Posted on Oct 02, 2010

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What is going on with my furnace? When the burner comes on there is a knocking sound coming from the boiler area which continues as long as the burner is firing and continues for 30 seconds after.


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It can be controlled in the first instance by the proper mounting of the pipes in the saddles ( more saddles the better --- less chance for the pipe to hit the wall or brackets )
The "hammer" occurs when a valve is opened and fluid stats to flow then the valve is shut off rapidly . the fluid is still flowing and so it hits that valve and the pressure builds up in the pipe ( knock) the valve is again opened reducing the pressure in the pipe only to shut off quickly again making the pressure again build up ( knock)
The are devices called accumulators available fro good plumber suppliers shops , that have a gas filled bladder in the unit
When the valve shuts off quickly , the flow of the fluid is absorbed against the gas filled bladder and then released when then valve is again turned on
this smooths out the stop/start action of the fluid and so stops the hammer or knock
The noise should be treated seriously as it will loosen of fittings and joints causing leaks and if extreme , will split pipes
As an example of what I am talking about take your garden hose and fit a stop hand piece to the end of the hose . turn the tap on , you will see the hose move as the water pressure builds up in the hose
press the trigger and see the hose relax
stop the flow quickly and again see the hose react
That relaxing and reaction of the hose is water hammer or knocking but you won't hear it in a hose , but with rigid pipes the action comes out as a vibration , like a drum being hit

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remove the fuel inlet pipe suction till fuel comes. than crank the engine .once the fuel comes out ,connect the pipe. next remove the out-let pipe and crank the engine till fuel comes out.and also check the fitting at suction for any leakage,breakages etc...

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Engine runs about 15 minutes then dies. acts like it is out of gas. will restart after sitting several hours.


Well iv had this problem a few times in the past so will let you try some of them ,
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1 Answer

How do you change the fuel filter in my 94 prelude SRV?


There 2 filters on your car:

1. By either the left or right suspension strut tower (gold colored canister)
2. By the gas tank

I suggest you replace both.

The one by the gas tank is like a prefilter and I will start with that one first:

Jack up car and put on axle stands or ramps then locate filter on the fuel line. Disconnect hose clamp from gas tank hose side FIRST (inlet) and use a spare bolt to block off the line otherwise fuel will spill all over the place.

Disconnect other side (outlet) then replace in opposite order.

You will need to use the grip part (not the cutting part) of a pair of pliers to GENTLY twist the hoses to break the seal on the rubber hose has made on the pipes as after years of clamping pressure they are bound to be tightly sealed on there. Remember to do it gently as you run the risk of crimping the pipes (not good!)

Also the filter should come with an arrow stamped on the body of it. Be sure to install the new filter with the arrow pointing towards the front of the car (this is very important as they are designed to flow only one way)

Sometimes these filters dont attach with hose clamps. In this case you will need a flare nut spanner (see below for explanation)

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It might pay to disconnect the battery to avoid the risk of fire.

I'll warn you that the fittings on this one are pretty tight so you will probably need a big bar with a socket to crack them.

The top fitting is what is known as a banjo fitting whereby a big bolt goes through a ring that is connected to the pipe.

Below this ring will be a hex (like a nut as part of the body of the filter). Attach an appropriately sized spanner on the hex then attach the bar with socket to the nut.

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The other fitting (inlet) will either be on the bottom of the filter or at the top by the outlet but either way directions are the same:

You will need whats called a flare nut spanner (also called a pipe spanner) the right size for the nut fitting. It's like a ring spanner but with a cutout in it to slip over the pipe and over the nut fitting.

You also have a hex type fitting on this side too so attach appropriate sized spanner, attach the flare nut spanner and loosen as you did the other fitting (using the spanner to stop the filter twisting).

Take both pipes off but be careful with the banjo fitting side as there are copper sealing washers and you want to remember where they go (replacement washers should come with the new filter)

Replace washers and fit pipes in reverse order, attach battery, start up and enjoy :)

Hope this helps :)

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