Question about Plumbing
Posted by Anonymous on
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
with most fausets there will be a cover hiding the setscrew holding it in place. it'll be right on top and need to be pry'd up. or the piece you'd use to turn the handle with, will unscrew.
Posted on Sep 20, 2009
the lever handle on that faucet is two pieces, it seperates at the top of the big round part. Hold the big round part with one hand and unscrew the smaller round piece out of the top of it. You must turn the small round part, turning the handle will do no good.
Posted on Mar 09, 2010
SOURCE: I've got a leak on
This should help you http://www.moen.com/shared/docs/exploded-parts-views/6610pt.pdf
And yes it can be a little bit of a job. If the faucet has been around a while you mite try some white vineger on the cap to looson the lime deposits.
Posted on Jul 14, 2011
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I started this when the faucet began leaking around the body when the
handle was lifted to use water. I thought this was a regular faucet, but Home
Depot was no help in supplying a repair kit. Fortunately I had the original
manual and called Pegasus. When I described my model number and symptoms, the
lady said the problem was the cartridge, covered under warranty and she would
send me one. The cartridge and a new bonnet arrived a couple of days later.
That was the end of easy.
Changing the cartridge was right at the limit of my patience and skill,
but I won't bore you with all the rabbit trails I explored before final
success. First, it's not obvious how the faucet comes apart; the top
button is threaded rather than clipped as in most faucets and pliers may mar
the finish when you unscrew it. With the button gone, removing the screw
holding the handle was no problem, but I had to resort to a small gear puller
($5 at auto parts store) to remove the handle. I used a longer screw
(1") as a center point but it was not just a matter of popping it loose;
I had to draw the handle the full length before it came off. The cap under the
handle is threaded to the brass bonnet and is unscrewed counter-clockwise. I
had to apply heat and WD-40 alternately to finally get this to loosen and had
actually given up and decided to call the plumber before going back for one
more try after it sat for an hour. The finish on the cap was marred during
removal, but it is not normally visible. With the cap removed the outside
sleeve can be removed by pulling up and rotating; it is not threaded, but is an
O-ring fit to the outside of the control body. Now the bonnet can be unscrewed
from the inside of the control body. There are two flat spots on the upper
threads on the bonnet that allow a crescent wrench to unscrew the bonnet from
the body. Again heat and WD-40 alternating was necessary before it finally
There is no need to loosen the faucet from the counter or remove any
hoses, although I did. It should remain solidly mounted to provide resistance
when unscrewing the cap from the bonnet and the bonnet from the body and
prevent the hoses below from twisting.
Putting it back together was easy; I used Teflon tape on the bonnet threads. I decided to test the faucet after I tightened the bonnet on top of the cartridge, before the cap and sleeve were installed. When I opened the faucet, water sprayed out the back of the body, where the diagram shows the spring and diverter. I did not have any parts for this, but the sleeve has O-rings at top and bottom so I decided to install it and the cap (hand tight). After I did, the spray was stopped (by the sleeve), but it still leaked like it had done at the beginning. I assumed the sleeve was working as well as possible and maybe its O-rings were leaking. But I tightened the cap with pliers which pushes down on the sleeve, and the leak stopped. I don't feel fully comfortable because I don't have an understanding of how everything works, but it's operating normally and not leaking.
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