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Are you talking about the element itself or the switch? On the element itself it should not matter as elements are usually a closed CCT with no connection to eth. If you are talking about the switch end that is a different matter.
Sounds like your round element has gone oc (open circuit)
Isolate the cooker at its mains switch
open oven door
unscrew back panel (normally 4 screws & some times the light glass may need unscrewing)
take off panel, you will see the fan surrounded by a round element,
if its out of shape or in bits, then it needs replacing
you can also take off element detach the wires and test for continuity with a meter if you know what you are doing. Only do this if you have a degree of electrical knowledge!
On this setting the fan and element get power at the same time. If the fan is working it is fairly safe to say that the element is blown or there is a problem with the wiring at the terminals of the element. You can visually check the element terminals and wiring and if okay the element will need replacing.
With 4 terminals, it sounds like a double grill element. But it could also be a single grill element with a second oven element. If the spade connecters are loose they need to be tightened first. Get a pair of pliers and gently squeeze the terminals until the gap reduces so when it slides on it will be tight. Do you know what wires go where? If so reconnect them. If you don't do the following; As you look at the element terminals they should run horizontally. Look at the element inside the grill compartment. From left to right, the no. 1 and no. 4 terminals should be the same element and the no. 2 and no. 3 terminals should be the other element. If this is correct put the 2 neutral wires, in any order, on terminals 1 and 2 and the active terminals on 3 and 4. This should work. You just have to check the correct element comes on when you operate the grill/oven controls.
Most common problem is that the grill element is probably faulty/blown. Also check the wiring at the grill element terminals as wiring sometimes burns off. The grill controllers don't normally get faulty as they generally last a lot longer than the elements.
The element for the oven is separate from the grill element. As you haven't specified your oven brand or model, I can't say that with 100% certainty, but every oven I ever seen has separate elements for grill and oven.
It's most likely that your oven element is burnt out. To check this, you need to get access to the oven element and (with the power off) test for continuity/resistance across the live and neutral terminals of the element. You'll need an Ohm meter to do this.
If your oven element checks out, the next things to check are the oven switch, thermostat and the wiring from the oven switch to the element.
I'd guess your element is burnt out. Common problem, especially if you've had the oven a while.
Please rate my solution if you find this helpful. Thanks.
Most likely you have a faulty fan element- this is a round element that goes around the fan at the back. To check- Disconnect from power(easiest way is to switch off oven at fuse board). Remove rear panel inside oven (held on by screws), and visually check element- often you will see a blow mark on the element. Element is easily changed, although sometimes requires oven to be removed to access element wires from the back. Proceed if you are a confident DIYer, otherwise call a local service agent. Elements are readily available for $75-$125 depending on the retailer.
You need to check the heating element for continuity and the thermistor for continuity. Use an ohmmeter or multimeter to check.The element should not be any reading over 24 ohms for a 220-250V supply and not over 12 ohms for a 110Vac supply. A good tip is to take digital photos of the job before starting on removing and testing wiring etc so that you can refer back to it if you have to replace any items or forget which wires attach to any particular terminal etc. To test and replace the element:
Turning off the mains power to the oven.
Remove the lower back panel. Fan assisted ovens will have a coiled 2 or 3 turn element around the outside of the fan.
Remove the 2 power connectors to the grill element if one is fitted.
Check the element resistance reading on the main oven heating element and not the grill element.
The thermistor or fusible link is located on top of the oven cavity if fitted and has two wires attached to it - most likely to be red and black or both white wires.
Remove the earthing wire to the main oven heating element screw terminal.
Unscrew the grill element securing screws(s) - there will be 1 or 2 depending on the element fitted to your oven. Do this from inside the oven cavity itself.
Refit the new element (make sure it has the same mounting screw holes as the one you want to remove) then secure it.
Reconnect the earthing wire to the element screw post.
Make sure that neither of the element tags touch the chassis - check with a continuity tester of ohm meter and adjust if required.
Reconnect the power cables to the main oven heating element.
Reconnect the power cables to the grill element if one is fitted.
Reconnect the power and check that the element works correctly.
Disconnect the mains power again and replace the rear panel(s).
Reconnect the mains power and recheck that the oven, and if appropriate the grill, functions correctly.