Question about Amana Refrigerators
Since vacuuming underneath the refrigerator the freezer will not get cold enough. Did I bump something?
Posted by Anonymous on
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: kenmore elite refrigerator
If this appliance is new, I would suggest to contact the vendor or manufacturer and ask them for in home service.
It could be the thermostat that might be not working properly or not set properly.
Check the user manual for more info on the thermostat settings.
Posted on Jul 08, 2008
For the 25 year old freezer: a replacement compressor of the same BTU rating can be obtained and used as a replacement BUT at 25 years old I DO Not recommend the expense of a compressor replacement.
To the owner of the six year old freezer. The buzzing noise is more than likely the compressor cycling on its overload protector. This is an indication that the compressor has failed. In this case also I do not recommend replacing the compressor. If it was in warranty the manufacturer would bear the cost. Replacement compressor come with a one year warranty.
Posted on Sep 15, 2008
make sure all your fans are turning. maybe try to remove the knobs and see if you can turn them without the knobs, possibly they could be stripped.
Posted on Apr 22, 2009
There are a few reasons why the refrigerator part will not cool...here are a couple of tips that will help you to figure out why the refrigerantor is not cooling...
Refrigerator not Cooling or Fridge not Cooling
How to Defrost Refrigerator Defrost Timer Problem
Posted on May 24, 2010
If the refrigerator isn't cool, you need to answer some questions, then see if the compressor is running.
First, answer these questions:
Is the refrigerator completely dead? If so, see “It's stopped completely.”
Is the thermostat knob turned to the proper setting? If not, reset it.
Next, see if the compressor motor is running
The compressor is a football-sized case with no apparent moving parts. It's on the outside of the refrigerator at the back near the bottom. If it is humming or making a continuous noise and your refrigerator is still not cooling, there may be a more serious problem with one or more of several different components, we recommend contacting a qualified appliance repair technician for further help.
If the compressor is not running but you do have power to the refrigerator, there may be a problem with one or more of these:
The overload, relay, or capacitor
The defrost timer
The condenser fan motor
Cooling is poor
For an overall understanding of how refrigerators should work, read about refrigerators in the How Things Work section of our website. A refrigerator or freezer that is cooling, but cooling poorly, may have a problem in one of several areas:
Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils or a condenser that is clogged with dust, lint, and dirt.
Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils. You can't see these coils without removing a panel on the inside of your freezer. A sure sign that there is a build-up is the presence of any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls, floor, or ceiling of the freezer. Such a frost build-up usually indicates a problem in the self-defrosting system or damaged door gaskets.
The refrigerator is supposed to self-defrost approximately four times in every 24 hour period. If one of the components in the self-defrosting system fails, the refrigerator continues to try to cool. Eventually, though, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the circulating fan can't draw air over the coils. There may still be a small amount of cooling because the coils are icy, but with no air flow over the coils, cooling in the refrigerator compartment is quite limited.
Here's an inexpensive, though inconvenient, way to determine if the problem is with the self-defrosting system. Remove all of the perishable food from the refrigerator and freezer, turn the thermostat in the refrigerator to Off, and leave the doors open for 24 to 48 hours. (Be sure to have several towels ready in case the melting frost and ice causes the drip pan to overflow). This allows the refrigerator to defrost "manually." When the frost and ice build-up has completely melted away, turn the thermostat back to a normal setting. If the refrigerator then cools properly, it indicates a problem with one of three components in the self-defrosting system:
The defrost timer
The defrost thermostat (also called the bi-metal switch)
The defrost heater
to check these components .... please refer to my solution in the below link....
If it still does not cool properly, there may be a problem with the refrigerant level or the compressor. You may need to consult with a qualified appliance repair technician to further diagnose the problem
Self-defrosting refrigerators all have a set of coils and a cooling fan, usually under the refrigerator, that need to be cleaned regularly. If these coils get coated with dust, dirt or lint, the refrigerator may not cool properly. The coils may appear to be a thin, black, wide radiator-like device behind the lower kick-panel. To clean them, disconnect the refrigerator from the power source, use a refrigerator condenser brush (see the Appliance Accessories section) and your vacuum cleaner to clean the coils of any lint, pet hair, etc. You may not be able to get to all of the condenser from the front, it may be necessary to clean the remainder of the condenser from the rear of the refrigerator.
If I've been of Help to you... kindly take a moment to rate this solution.
Posted on Sep 10, 2010
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