Question about Refrigerators
Bottom icemaker works fine top icemaker has never worked the icemaker fan on top ice maker does not run
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: icemaker not making ice
First thing to check is to see if the optics are working properly. This is the red flashing light on right hand side of freezer wall. Close the flipper door, be sure not to block the beam, and the light should go to solid red. If it does then the optics are ok. If it continues to blink then that is your problem. If optics check ok then pull ice maker out and remove the white plastic cover. It just pulls off. Look at the center of the gear wheel and see if one of the plastic tabs is either broken or if they are sort of twisted and touching eachother. If any of these things with the gear have happened then that module will need to be replaced along with the ice maker thermostat. If your not sure how to replace these parts then just replace the whole ice maker. That is much easier and not much more costly.
After changing the parts or the ice maker out follow these steps to start the ice maker thru a cycle. 1. Remove the ice maker from the cradle but leave the harness connected. Remove the front cover from the module. Unplug the refrigerator. Get a small jumper wire with bare ends and jump T and H on the module, leave the jumper in and set the ice maker on the shelf. Close the door. Now plug the refer back in and wait 30 seconds. Open the door and the ice-maker should be cycling. Remove the jumper, put the module cover back on and set it back in the cradle. The fill should take place when the ejector blades reach the 12:00 position. Follow these steps exactly in order
Posted on Nov 10, 2007
SOURCE: ice maker not working
make sure its turned on check the wire connector is seated and check to make sure there is nothing jambed in the tray if all that is ok call for service
Posted on Feb 10, 2008
Posted on Mar 24, 2009
majority of refrigerators today are equipped with an automatic icemaker. The water valve supplying the icemaker is a key component of the icemaking system, and it should be the first thing you check if the icemaker's performance is erratic or if the icemaker stops working. When the icemaker calls for ice, its switch closes an electrical circuit and energizes the solenoid-operated water valve. This allows water to flow through the valve and into the ice cube tray. The water is frozen into cubes, and the cubes are dumped into the ice bin. As time passes, strange things may happen to the refrigerator's icemaking capability. The cubes may be small or there may be a solid chunk of ice instead of individual cubes. It's also possible that the icemaker will stop working. These are all signs of a malfunctioning water valve. The valve is equipped with a screen on its inlet to remove minerals and sediments in the water supply. Over time, minerals and sediment build up on the screen and restrict flow through the valve, or even block it completely. Minerals that make it through the screen can cause the valve to stick in the open position, overfilling the ice cube tray in the process. This is a common problem in areas with hard water, but it can happen just about anywhere. Another malfunction that will cause the icemaker to stop working is a break in the solenoid coil winding. This is known as an open coil. The coil winding generates a magnetic field as current passes through it, and this magnetic field opens the plunger valve that controls water flow. A break in the coil winding stops current flow and this prevents the valve from operating. Test And Inspect The icemaker's valve is easy to inspect and test. First, gently pull the refrigerator away from the wall, and unplug it. Turn off the water supply to the icemaker by closing the shut-off valve in the copper waterline leading to the valve (Fig. 1). Use a screwdriver or nutdriver to remove the rear lower access panel from the refrigerator's back. Next, remove the fill tubing from the water valve. Use a wrench to loosen the flare nut on the brass fitting on the inlet side of the valve (above). Place a container under the valve to catch the small amount of water that will spill from the valve and tubing. Now use a screwdriver or a nutdriver to remove the screw holding the valve's mounting bracket to the refrigerator cabinet (Fig. 2). Pull the valve out of the compartment and remove the tube on the valve's outlet. Then, remove the solenoid's electrical contacts (Fig. 3).
Posted on Mar 29, 2009
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