Question about Dometic Refrigerators
We have a fridge that went out and we found that the extension cord we were plugged into was not connected all the way, we found this because we were not getting 120 volts out of the outlet. Once we fixed the plug we were getting the right voltage but the electric side of the fridge will still not work.
Posted by Anonymous on
If works on LP might have ruined heater element if not on LP or ac bad control board
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
We had same problem with different fridge. Is the fridge cooling things? When ours did that we needed to replace the relay overload start capacitor it's called a three in one. It acts like a giant battery to give your compressor a n extra boost to get started runs about 25 bucks relatively easy fix only has three wires to connect
Posted on Jan 24, 2009
One of two problems. The auto switch is bad or the lower circuit board is not doing its job. You can call norcold technical or take the board to a service center and have it checked with the tester they should have. The lower board retails for 176.00. I looked at my tech file and it is a little vague on your particular situation. If I were repairing your fridge I would take the smart route and call technical. Hope you get your problem solved. If you need more help please feel free.
Posted on Mar 24, 2009
Refrigerators are not designed to run on a GFCI. Try a heavy duty extension cord to the fridge from a outlet that is not GFCI protected. If it still trips you probably have a short circuit in the compressor.
Posted on May 13, 2009
Hi: Yes, replace the GFI outlet. A refrigerator should not be plugged into one for what you are experiencing and food loss. This was an easy answer for me, but unfortunately not for you The owners manual covers this, but us men don't read them (Well I had to as I worked with them for 30 years). Good luck, Jeff
Posted on Jun 01, 2009
HI. i would recommend to check the relay first, then the compressor last to confirm total failure. If both devices test out ok, this will lead to a failed main power control board.
The compressor relay starts the compressor. A fault relay can result in the compressor failing to cycle on. The relay is accessed from the lower rear of the refrigerator. The compressor relay can be accessed by removing the terminal cover box. The cover is held on by tension or with a retaining clip. On some units. the relay may not be covered at all.(each model may vary). Beneath the terminal cover(if equipped), you will find the compressor relay, and the overload protector as well. The electrical terminals of the compressor motor are located here also. Remove the compressor relay by pulling it straight off from the compressor, gently. Pull the wire off of the side terminal of the relay. It is connected with a slip on connector. Firmly pull the connector, do not pull on the wire. You may need to use a pair of needle-nose pliers. Inspect the connector and terminal for corrosion. If either is corroded they should be cleaned or replaced. There are two types of relays you may encounter, wire coil and solid state. If the relay has an exposed wound wire coil it can be tested for continuity. Otherwise, the relay is of solid state design and requires specialized equipment for testing. Test the relay with a ohm(multimeter), for continuity. Set the meter to the ohms setting X1. With the relay upside down, place the probes into the terminals labeled "S" and "M"(the labeling may vary on each modle). The meter should display a reading of zero ohms, indicating continuity (or if using a continuity tester, it should light up). With the probes still in place, turn the relay over. You should hear the click of the magnetic switch engaging. The meter should now display an ohm reading of infinity (or the tester should not light up). Turn the relay upside down again, place the probe on the "S" terminal and place it on the side terminal labeled "L". The meter should now display a reading of zero ohms (continuity). Turn the relay over and the reading should change to infinity. With the relay upside down place one probe on the "L" terminal and the other probe on terminal labeled "M". The meter should display a reading of zero ohms. Turn the relay over and the reading will stay the same, zero ohms. Now, if the relay fails these described tests, it should be replaced asap.
COMPRESSOR TEST PROCEDURE
The compressor is accessed from the lower rear of the refrigerator. Generally the same proximity of the relay. The compressor motor can be accessed by removing the terminal cover box. The cover is held on by tension or with a retaining clip. The main testing points will be the actual terminal post that hold the relay, gently pull the relay of the terminal box on the side of the compressor, and use the relay holding probes for testing. Once the relay is removed, Place one probe on any terminal and then touch the other probe to each of the other two terminals. The multimeter should display a reading of zero ohms. Be sure to set your meter to 1X before beginning. Now move the first probe to a different terminal and test the other two terminals with the other probe. Finally, move the first probe to the last terminal and test each of the other terminals with the other probe. Every test should have continuity with the multimeter displaying zero ohms. If the compressor motor does not pass all of these tests, the compressor will require professional service. Now test the compressor for ground. With the multimeter still set to X1, touch one probe to bare metal on the compressor housing (it may be necessary to scratch away a little paint to expose the metal). Touch the other probe to each of the three terminals in turn. None of the terminals should have continuity; the multimeter should display a reading of infinity. If any of the grounding tests show continuity, the compressor will require professional service.
NOTE_ If both components test out ok, the culprit will be a faulty main control board.
Posted on Dec 03, 2009
Testimonial: "good advise. exactly what i asked for. thanks"
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