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Broken burner head screws

The screws holding the burner heads are corroded and breaking on this MGR6775BDS.

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6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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Dysonteam
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SOURCE: Dyson DC07 - broken 'Contact Head' release clip

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Posted on Jul 16, 2008

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ngfam1
  • 639 Answers

SOURCE: paint peeling off around stove

You are under full Warranty for one year!
Do not procrastinate this matter!
Call whirlpool and demand a replacement!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Tell them this unit is defectively painted!

I am happy to assist you!
Neil
PS. Before you leave this site please leave a "Problem Solved" rating for me on fixya.com

Posted on Aug 25, 2008

  • 24 Answers

SOURCE: Breakdown Manfrotto 3265 ball head from 190xb tripod

IT SOME TIMES TAKES A LOT OF EFFORT TO SEPARTE THE HEAD FROM THE TRIPOD. MAKE SURE YOU REMOVE THE 3 LITTLE SCREWS FROM BELOW THE HEAD, AND MAKE SURE THE TRIPOD AND HEAD ARE NOT COLD. IF THEYA RE WARM THEY WILL SEPARATE EASIER.

Posted on Jan 30, 2009

  • 4044 Answers

SOURCE: how to remove head light in 2006 dts cadillac

ok, In this New of a vehicle there are no screws holding the headlight in if you just need to replace a headlight because it is burned out. Look at the back of the light where the wires attach and you should see the wires going into what appears to be a coupling. Get a hold of that and turn. After it unlocks you can remove and replace the bulb. If you are replacing the Headlight assembly because it was damaged there are typically 2 long scews on the top front that appear to be adjsutment screws and 2 smaller ones in each side, again on top. Good Luck

Posted on Aug 27, 2009

rick_stokes_
  • 61 Answers

SOURCE: How do I reinstall the cutting head on a Wahl

It takes a fair amount of pressure but I wouldn't charactorize it as great force to get them into position. If it feels as though you are going to break something, then you may not have the spring positioned correctly on the top blade. There should be a couple of small grooves that the wire springs fit into on the top blade plastic piece.It does take a good push to put it into position to get the screws into the holes though.

Posted on Sep 27, 2009

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1 Answer

Model 790 70613210. How do I relight pilot?


Hello. There is *no* pilot on this range! You have a glow bar for both the bake and broil functions in the oven. The bake glow bar part number is (#19) 316489402(see pic 2). The ignition module(that provides the high voltage for the spark posts at each of the surface burners is (#8) 316262400. The ignition harness(that has four ignition switches daisy-chained together is (#3) 316580615. The sealed burner for the LF and LR is 316558300(quantity 2). The RF burner is 316438600. The RR burner is 316438200.
RF orifice/ignitor assembly 316536614
RR orifice/ignitor assembly 316536610
LF orifice/ignitor assembly 316536602
LR orifice/ignitor assembly 316536600
BURNER HEAD SCREWS (QUANTITY 8) 316540900
LP CONVERSION KIT (#47) 316542414
If you are hesitant about the disassembly on the range, I strongly advise calling for service--The cooktop must be removed to exposed the ignition parts. This is accomplished by releasing the burner heads from the cooktop. The mount screws on the burners are notorious for seizing and the heads breaking off on removal. If this happens, the orifice/ignitor will have to be replaced for every burner with which this occurs. It can be expensive! I hope the diagrams and part numbers help you!


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25902472-rxxyhzi5tgop52hwgyt1zd3q-5-2.jpg

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Oct 10, 2015 | Kenmore Kitchen Ranges

1 Answer

Head broken off on silkstone barbie. Part that holds head knob in neck is broken.


I have had the neck knob break as well and leave the ball part of the neck knob in the neck. I was able to push the ball off center and get it wedged so it didnt spin and then I used a drill and small drill bit to get a hole in the ball and then I was able to screw in a screw part way and then grab the screw with some pliers and it came straight out. I contacted barbie collector and they mailed out a new neck knob.

Jan 23, 2011 | Mattel Toys

1 Answer

How to open my MicroSolutions External DVD drives' case, I am interested in using the case for a new internal drive. Thanks!


I can't give you exact information, only generic.

The case comes apart in two halves. A top half, and a bottom half. This is evidenced by the parting line in the middle.
There are screws which should hold the two case halves together.

Generally they are hidden underneath labels. The label, or thin blue plastic cover is peeled back to expose the screw heads.
Screws may have a Philips head, or a Torx head. (Internal star shape)

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Torx

After removing the screws it may take an additional force, to 'pop' the two case halves apart.

Oct 29, 2010 | Micro Solutions Backpack CD-RW/DVD-ROM...

1 Answer

The large two size burner is not working correctly. The large size will come on but the small inner burner will not


If you have the glass cooktop slide-in model, the problem is most likely the burner "ribbon' under the glass top for the small burner has come loose. I fixed mine with only a phillips-head screwdriver, needle-nosed pliers, and a 1/4" wrench (1/4" socket on the end of a nutdriver works better). Here are the steps I took to fix it: 1) Slide the oven out from the counter so the sides of the oven are clear of the counter top. 2) Remove the phillips head screws-1 on each side of the oven near the top/rear. These will be the only phillips-head screws you will need to remove. 3) Open the oven door and remove the 4 hex-head screws at the top/front/inside the oven- there are 2 on each side which follow the opening of the door. Then close the door. 4) Pull off the burner knobs by gripping them and pulling straight up. Don't worry, you will not break them but you will need to give them a good tug. 5) Remove the burner retaining nuts that are under the knobs-you may need a wrench to loosen them but only tighten them by hand when reinstalling. 6) Pull the face of the control panel away from the oven slowly until you see a ribbon connector on the right side and then disconnect the ribbon and remove the face plate from the oven. 7) Remove the 4 hex-head screws from the face plate bracket (the plastic part that was holding the face plate) and pull the bracket toward the front of the oven until it flops over and rests on the oven door handle. 8) remove the 2 black screws holding down the glass top-one on each side of the oven-the screw heads face the front of the oven. 9) Disconnect the two wiring harnesses attached to the cook top. Don't worry, they only fit one way so you don't need to label them. 10) Lift the cook top until the wiring harnesses are clear of the holes and place it upside down on a flat surrface. 11) Remove the two retaining bracket screws and brackets from each side of the non-working burner. 12) Slowly lift the burner and flip it upwards until you see the ribbon coils. It should not be necessary to disconnect any wires. 13) Look at the ribbon coils very carefully to see if any of them are disconnected from their main connection points. If so, feed the ribbon back inside the pinch point (you may need a small screwdriver to open the pinch point first) and then use a pair of needle-nosed pliers to pinch the ribbon to hold it in place. I had to use a voltage meter set in the OHM position to find where mine were disconnected. Once you pinch the ribbon end back into place, put everything back together in reverse order. If your burner still does not work, your burner knob switch may be bad. I hope this helps. Good Luck!

Jun 24, 2010 | GE Profile JB968 Electric Kitchen Range

1 Answer

One of my large burner not working


If you have the glass cooktop slide-in model, the problem is most likely the burner "ribbon' under the glass top for the small burner has come loose. I fixed mine with only a phillips-head screwdriver, needle-nosed pliers, and a 1/4" wrench (1/4" socket on the end of a nutdriver works better). Here are the steps I took to fix it: 1) Slide the oven out from the counter so the sides of the oven are clear of the counter top. 2) Remove the phillips head screws-1 on each side of the oven near the top/rear. These will be the only phillips-head screws you will need to remove. 3) Open the oven door and remove the 4 hex-head screws at the top/front/inside the oven- there are 2 on each side which follow the opening of the door. Then close the door. 4) Pull off the burner knobs by gripping them and pulling straight up. Don't worry, you will not break them but you will need to give them a good tug. 5) Remove the burner retaining nuts that are under the knobs-you may need a wrench to loosen them but only tighten them by hand when reinstalling. 6) Pull the face of the control panel away from the oven slowly until you see a ribbon connector on the right side and then disconnect the ribbon and remove the face plate from the oven. 7) Remove the 4 hex-head screws from the face plate bracket (the plastic part that was holding the face plate) and pull the bracket toward the front of the oven until it flops over and rests on the oven door handle. 8) remove the 2 black screws holding down the glass top-one on each side of the oven-the screw heads face the front of the oven. 9) Disconnect the two wiring harnesses attached to the cook top. Don't worry, they only fit one way so you don't need to label them. 10) Lift the cook top until the wiring harnesses are clear of the holes and place it upside down on a flat surrface. 11) Remove the two retaining bracket screws and brackets from each side of the non-working burner. 12) Slowly lift the burner and flip it upwards until you see the ribbon coils. It should not be necessary to disconnect any wires. 13) Look at the ribbon coils very carefully to see if any of them are disconnected from their main connection points. If so, feed the ribbon back inside the pinch point (you may need a small screwdriver to open the pinch point first) and then use a pair of needle-nosed pliers to pinch the ribbon to hold it in place. I had to use a voltage meter set in the OHM position to find where mine were disconnected. Once you pinch the ribbon end back into place, put everything back together in reverse order. If your burner still does not work, your burner knob switch may be bad. I hope this helps. Good Luck!

Sep 30, 2009 | GE 30 in. Profile JP350 Electric Cooktop

1 Answer

Front big burner not working


If you have the glass cooktop slide-in model, the problem is most likely the burner "ribbon' under the glass top for the small burner has come loose. I fixed mine with only a phillips-head screwdriver, needle-nosed pliers, and a 1/4" wrench (1/4" socket on the end of a nutdriver works better). Here are the steps I took to fix it: 1) Slide the oven out from the counter so the sides of the oven are clear of the counter top. 2) Remove the phillips head screws-1 on each side of the oven near the top/rear. These will be the only phillips-head screws you will need to remove. 3) Open the oven door and remove the 4 hex-head screws at the top/front/inside the oven- there are 2 on each side which follow the opening of the door. Then close the door. 4) Pull off the burner knobs by gripping them and pulling straight up. Don't worry, you will not break them but you will need to give them a good tug. 5) Remove the burner retaining nuts that are under the knobs-you may need a wrench to loosen them but only tighten them by hand when reinstalling. 6) Pull the face of the control panel away from the oven slowly until you see a ribbon connector on the right side and then disconnect the ribbon and remove the face plate from the oven. 7) Remove the 4 hex-head screws from the face plate bracket (the plastic part that was holding the face plate) and pull the bracket toward the front of the oven until it flops over and rests on the oven door handle. 8) remove the 2 black screws holding down the glass top-one on each side of the oven-the screw heads face the front of the oven. 9) Disconnect the two wiring harnesses attached to the cook top. Don't worry, they only fit one way so you don't need to label them. 10) Lift the cook top until the wiring harnesses are clear of the holes and place it upside down on a flat surrface. 11) Remove the two retaining bracket screws and brackets from each side of the non-working burner. 12) Slowly lift the burner and flip it upwards until you see the ribbon coils. It should not be necessary to disconnect any wires. 13) Look at the ribbon coils very carefully to see if any of them are disconnected from their main connection points. If so, feed the ribbon back inside the pinch point (you may need a small screwdriver to open the pinch point first) and then use a pair of needle-nosed pliers to pinch the ribbon to hold it in place. I had to use a voltage meter set in the OHM position to find where mine were disconnected. Once you pinch the ribbon end back into place, put everything back together in reverse order. If your burner still does not work, your burner knob switch may be bad. I hope this helps. Good Luck!

Jul 10, 2009 | GE Profile JSP47 Electric Single Oven

1 Answer

Large section of dual burner not working


If you have the glass cooktop slide-in model, the problem is most likely the burner "ribbon' under the glass top for the small burner has come loose. I fixed mine with only a phillips-head screwdriver, needle-nosed pliers, and a 1/4" wrench (1/4" socket on the end of a nutdriver works better). Here are the steps I took to fix it: 1) Slide the oven out from the counter so the sides of the oven are clear of the counter top. 2) Remove the phillips head screws-1 on each side of the oven near the top/rear. These will be the only phillips-head screws you will need to remove. 3) Open the oven door and remove the 4 hex-head screws at the top/front/inside the oven- there are 2 on each side which follow the opening of the door. Then close the door. 4) Pull off the burner knobs by gripping them and pulling straight up. Don't worry, you will not break them but you will need to give them a good tug. 5) Remove the burner retaining nuts that are under the knobs-you may need a wrench to loosen them but only tighten them by hand when reinstalling. 6) Pull the face of the control panel away from the oven slowly until you see a ribbon connector on the right side and then disconnect the ribbon and remove the face plate from the oven. 7) Remove the 4 hex-head screws from the face plate bracket (the plastic part that was holding the face plate) and pull the bracket toward the front of the oven until it flops over and rests on the oven door handle. 8) remove the 2 black screws holding down the glass top-one on each side of the oven-the screw heads face the front of the oven. 9) Disconnect the two wiring harnesses attached to the cook top. Don't worry, they only fit one way so you don't need to label them. 10) Lift the cook top until the wiring harnesses are clear of the holes and place it upside down on a flat surrface. 11) Remove the two retaining bracket screws and brackets from each side of the non-working burner. 12) Slowly lift the burner and flip it upwards until you see the ribbon coils. It should not be necessary to disconnect any wires. 13) Look at the ribbon coils very carefully to see if any of them are disconnected from their main connection points. If so, feed the ribbon back inside the pinch point (you may need a small screwdriver to open the pinch point first) and then use a pair of needle-nosed pliers to pinch the ribbon to hold it in place. I had to use a voltage meter set in the OHM position to find where mine were disconnected. Once you pinch the ribbon end back into place, put everything back together in reverse order. If your burner still does not work, your burner knob switch may be bad. I hope this helps. Good Luck!

Jul 07, 2009 | GE 30 in. Profile JP989 Electric Cooktop

1 Answer

How to loosen screws to remove blades from Ozito OZPL400A planer


WD-40 is nice for some situations, but not this particular one. I suggest you use something like Liquid Wrench. Apply, tap the nuts on each side with a metal punch, and a very small hammer. Not hard! You're just trying to bust any rust loose, and give the liquid wrench a chance to ease down in there.
Just tap!

How are you holding the bolt head on the other side? If these nuts are so corroded that this method won't free them, you make want to see if a 1/4 inch air ratchet wrench is available. The wrench is shaped in a 90 degree angle, so it should fit down in there. Have any mechanic friends? The bolts may break. It may come to this. Be sure the bolt head is held secure, so that no damage will come to the planer. If they, or it, breaks, you can just replace them. Make sure they're Grade 5 or above, bolts and nuts.

I've had to use a small propane torch to heat the nuts. The rust breaks free. I hope it doesn't come to this.

May 10, 2009 | Tools & Hardware - Others

1 Answer

Front right burner on GE glass top range not working


If you have the glass cooktop slide-in model, the problem is most likely the burner "ribbon' under the glass top for the small burner has come loose. I fixed mine with only a phillips-head screwdriver, needle-nosed pliers, and a 1/4" wrench (1/4" socket on the end of a nutdriver works better). Here are the steps I took to fix it: 1) Slide the oven out from the counter so the sides of the oven are clear of the counter top. 2) Remove the phillips head screws-1 on each side of the oven near the top/rear. These will be the only phillips-head screws you will need to remove. 3) Open the oven door and remove the 4 hex-head screws at the top/front/inside the oven- there are 2 on each side which follow the opening of the door. Then close the door. 4) Pull off the burner knobs by gripping them and pulling straight up. Don't worry, you will not break them but you will need to give them a good tug. 5) Remove the burner retaining nuts that are under the knobs-you may need a wrench to loosen them but only tighten them by hand when reinstalling. 6) Pull the face of the control panel away from the oven slowly until you see a ribbon connector on the right side and then disconnect the ribbon and remove the face plate from the oven. 7) Remove the 4 hex-head screws from the face plate bracket (the plastic part that was holding the face plate) and pull the bracket toward the front of the oven until it flops over and rests on the oven door handle. 8) remove the 2 black screws holding down the glass top-one on each side of the oven-the screw heads face the front of the oven. 9) Disconnect the two wiring harnesses attached to the cook top. Don't worry, they only fit one way so you don't need to label them. 10) Lift the cook top until the wiring harnesses are clear of the holes and place it upside down on a flat surrface. 11) Remove the two retaining bracket screws and brackets from each side of the non-working burner. 12) Slowly lift the burner and flip it upwards until you see the ribbon coils. It should not be necessary to disconnect any wires. 13) Look at the ribbon coils very carefully to see if any of them are disconnected from their main connection points. If so, feed the ribbon back inside the pinch point (you may need a small screwdriver to open the pinch point first) and then use a pair of needle-nosed pliers to pinch the ribbon to hold it in place. I had to use a voltage meter set in the OHM position to find where mine were disconnected. Once you pinch the ribbon end back into place, put everything back together in reverse order. If your burner still does not work, your burner knob switch may be bad. I hope this helps. Good Luck!

Feb 28, 2009 | GE Profile JKP18 Electric Single Oven

1 Answer

GE Elec Range - front left burner will not turn on


If you have the glass cooktop slide-in model, the problem is most likely the burner "ribbon' under the glass top for the small burner has come loose. I fixed mine with only a phillips-head screwdriver, needle-nosed pliers, and a 1/4" wrench (1/4" socket on the end of a nutdriver works better). Here are the steps I took to fix it: 1) Slide the oven out from the counter so the sides of the oven are clear of the counter top. 2) Remove the phillips head screws-1 on each side of the oven near the top/rear. These will be the only phillips-head screws you will need to remove. 3) Open the oven door and remove the 4 hex-head screws at the top/front/inside the oven- there are 2 on each side which follow the opening of the door. Then close the door. 4) Pull off the burner knobs by gripping them and pulling straight up. Don't worry, you will not break them but you will need to give them a good tug. 5) Remove the burner retaining nuts that are under the knobs-you may need a wrench to loosen them but only tighten them by hand when reinstalling. 6) Pull the face of the control panel away from the oven slowly until you see a ribbon connector on the right side and then disconnect the ribbon and remove the face plate from the oven. 7) Remove the 4 hex-head screws from the face plate bracket (the plastic part that was holding the face plate) and pull the bracket toward the front of the oven until it flops over and rests on the oven door handle. 8) remove the 2 black screws holding down the glass top-one on each side of the oven-the screw heads face the front of the oven. 9) Disconnect the two wiring harnesses attached to the cook top. Don't worry, they only fit one way so you don't need to label them. 10) Lift the cook top until the wiring harnesses are clear of the holes and place it upside down on a flat surrface. 11) Remove the two retaining bracket screws and brackets from each side of the non-working burner. 12) Slowly lift the burner and flip it upwards until you see the ribbon coils. It should not be necessary to disconnect any wires. 13) Look at the ribbon coils very carefully to see if any of them are disconnected from their main connection points. If so, feed the ribbon back inside the pinch point (you may need a small screwdriver to open the pinch point first) and then use a pair of needle-nosed pliers to pinch the ribbon to hold it in place. I had to use a voltage meter set in the OHM position to find where mine were disconnected. Once you pinch the ribbon end back into place, put everything back together in reverse order. If your burner still does not work, your burner knob switch may be bad. I hope this helps. Good Luck!

Dec 26, 2008 | GE Profile JB968SHSS Electric Kitchen...

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