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I have a Maytag 2000 stacked washer and dryer. The spin cycle shuts the machine off leaves clothes soaking wet.

Maytag 2000 washer won't spin clothes it shuts off

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They have a mind of their Own, don't they? Solution:
You need to order a New Drain Pump (Yes Amazon has them cheap!) have it replaced-installed. If you want to do it. Go to YouTube enter your machine# and see if some dope, I mean person installed one!

Posted on Mar 15, 2014

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6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 68 Answers

SOURCE: Cloths Soaked after Spin Cycle

If the motor has a transmission, it could be stuck in 1st gear. I think the agitator running is normal.

Posted on Jan 17, 2009

  • 14 Answers

SOURCE: Error code E04? Doesn't drain or spin. Machine

SEIMENS FRONT LOADER ULTRA SENSE DRAINING PROBLEM


On my SEIMENS washer, which is about the same as BOSCH, the drain problem seems to be usually a small sock jammed in the intake of the drain pump, or possibly in a hose before the pump. I found a quarter and a couple of staples in the attached settlement area where junk settles to avoid jamming the pump. Also a lot of dirt.


On the lower front under the door, while facing the washer, is a round plate with a little hole in it. Put something sturdy, a little bigger than a toothpick in there, and rotate the plate about a 16th of a turn, maybe a little more, and it comes off.


Take duct tape or similar and tape up the edges of the hole and a nearly vertical bar in the hold on the left side, because the edges will cut your hand, like they did mine.


Inside the hole you will see a black turn knob inside. Turn it left very slowly, only after you figure out where the water will go, probably a small bucket or two of it. I used a 4" funnel which got most of it, I think, funneling into the bucket. Maybe you can be more creative, but it is what was at hand. Still got water on the floor out of the garage into the street. Turn left slowly, so it doesn't dump water outside of the funnel. You will see the water is brown, silt, dirt and stuff.


If you get a lot of water out, that means the blockage is probably at the pump. If you don't get water out, the blockage is probably in the hoses from the washer, which means you need to undo hose clamps going into the pump and clear the blockage. That is harder.


Most likely it is something in the pump area itself.


After most or all of the water is gone, and it doesn't seem to unscrew any more, tug on it and it will come out exposing the pump and probably the sock.


Remove the sock, and check the pump impellors to make sure they are intact. If gone, that means a new impellor and probably a pump. Then move the impellor, it should click as it moves and stop. If it does, you have found the problem. Sock blocking the outlet.


Carefully clean out the **** inside the pump settlement area. If you leave any of the sandy gritty clumpy stuff it can ruin your pump. Also clean the plastic thingy you pulled out, and make sure the threads and sealing surfaces are clean there too.


Then screw it back in firmly, and start the washer, without clothes. I would just fill it up, starting the cycle, until it starts to agitate, then go to the drain position


With luck, it will now drain. .


This will save you a service call for something easy to fix yourself.

Posted on Jan 31, 2011

  • 5 Answers

SOURCE: clothes come out from washer soaking wet

Fixing my Maytag Neptune (MAH5500BWW) that wouldn't spinSat, 08/22/2009 - 14:55 - paul

We have a Maytag Neptune (MAH5500BWW) washer that would go through the complete wash cycle and then get to the spin portion of the cycle and silently skip from minute 7 to minute 0 without really doing much. After poking around a various places, I didn't find the solution to my problem on-line, but I did figure it out, so I thought I would post what I found on-line. I also posted this solution on:http://www.fixya.com/support/t2322035-will_drain_but_wont_spin

It turns out that the washer thought it was "continuously out of balance" because the inertial unbalance switch was not working properly. The way I fixed it was:

1. I followed the instructions to disassemble the Neptune washer found here:http://www.neptunehelp.com/index_files/Page323.htm and then in the control panel on top I found actually a very useful document stored in the control panel itself. It is called "Schematic Mini-manual LED Washer" and it contains a set of schematics for the electrical system and an explanation on how to run various diagnostics on the washer. This was incredibly helpful.

2. I checked the diagnostic code using the following procedure:

a. Plug the washer in for power.
b. Put the washer into "Service Mode" by holding the "Delicates" and "Heavy soil" keys simultaneously for 3 or more seconds. My washer showed a "00" on the screen when it was in Service Mode.
c. Pushed "Presoak" to put it in diagnostic code mode.
d. Pushed the down arrow key to read out the last diagnostic code. In my case the most recent diagnostic code was a "05", which the mini-manual says means "Continuous unbalanced circuit". In fact the mini-manual also says to "Check for: Faulty unbalance switches, Loose wire connections, Bad control board".
e. To find out how many cycles ago this happened, you can push the "Cotton/sturdy" button and it will tell you how many cycles ago this happened. I can't remember the response of my washer, but it either showed a "00" or "01".

To double check the diagnostic code, I

a. Cleared the list of diagnostic codes by holding the "Heavy soil" and "Presoak" buttons for 3 seconds while in the "Diagnostic code" mode;
b. Put the washer door back on and screwed it in without putting the entire front back on the washer.
c. Pushed the "off" button or unplug the washer and plug it back in to get it out of "Service mode".
c. Ran just the spin cycle, where it counted down to 7 and then was perfectly silent and then displayed a "00" without really trying to spin.

Double checking the diagnostic code probably wasnt' really needed, but I thought I would try it just to make sure. I did receive the "05" diagnostic code again.

3. With the washer unplugged again, I did the following to check that the switches were the problem, I checked the resistance of the circuit that has the following three switches in it: the inertial unbalance switch, the low tub displacement switch, and the upper tub displacement switch. If the circuit has effectively "0" Ohms of resistance, the switches are good. If you effectively have "infinite" resistance, then one of the switches is bad.

The mini-manual shows you where the switches are physically on the washer. The easiest way to check this is to find a connector that connects the three switches to the control panel. I found this by lifting the top panel of the washer up all of the way so I could access the top of the washer's tub. Based on the schematic from the mini-manual, the in-line connector has four wires. One side you will find a red wire with the number "23" on it and an orange wire with the number "40" on it. The other half of the connector has two blue wires connected to it, one with the number "23" on it and one with the number "40" on it. In my washer, this connector was placed on top of the washer toward the back.

To test to see if one of the switches is not working:
a. Disconnect the inline connector described above.
b. Test the resistance between the two terminals on the side of the connector having the two blue wires. I found that when I did this I had infinite resistance, so want of the switches was stuck open, indicating the "unbalanced " condition.

To find which switch was at fault, I disconnected each switch from the circuit and tested each one individually. The one that was easiest to get to was the lower tub displacement switch, which is in the front on the bottom of the washer's tub. It worked fine (0 Ohms resistance normally and infinite resistance when you push the button). The next I tried was the inertial unbalance switch, which is placed on the top, right, front of the tub just underneath the block of concrete that is mounted on the tub. For convenience, I removed the concrete block so I could easily access and remove the switch.

This was the switch with the problem (it was effectively stuck open or infinite resistance). It seems to have some rod of metal in it that moves back and forth with the washers motion, so I just shook it vigorously and you could hear the rod of metal move back and forth. This seemed to free up the switch mechanism and the switch functioned again (showed "0" ohms when it was held in about the same position as it would be on the washer). I put the switch back in place and checked the connector with the blue wires leading to all three switches as before. This time I received effectively "0" Ohms, meaning that the problem was fixed.

4. At this point, I put everything back together again (concrete block, reconnected the in-line connector to the switches, and reversed the procedure found in http://www.neptunehelp.com/index_files/Page323.htm ).

Once everything was back together again, I tested just a "spin" cycle and everything worked. You could also test this before putting things back together (probably a good idea) by temporarily putting the door on properly and trying a "spin" cycle.

Another thing to note, you could actually check the diagnostic codes and run several of the tests without taking the entire washer apart. Basically, all you need to do is get the mini-manual out of the control panel (I there are 6 screws total I took off) and run the tests before opening the rest of the washer.

In the end, it might be good to clean or lubricate the inertial unbalance switch or replace it since it will probably stick again. Unfortunately, I am not sure how it is built, so I am not sure what the best way to clean or lubricate it is. Just shaking it for the moment did the trick.

Hope someone finds this useful.

Posted on Nov 12, 2012

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