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Could be the window switch or the window motor or possibly the window regulator. You have to check electrical ciruit , is there B+ voltage to the window switch ,if so is the B+ voltage getting to the window motor ? Do you hear any noise inside the door when you move the window switch ? If so probably the window regulator is bad . They are plastic pulley's an wire cable , the cables come off the pulleys , they break etc.... There are videos on youtube , trouble shooting power windows ! Automotive Repair Power Window Troubleshooting
Electric motor ? If you have an 1.5 or 2 kwdrt extension cable used, use a 2.5 kwadrat cable because of undervoltage ... can also caused if it get not enough water delivered by a wrong placed hose where an water exit link is on the faucet placed instead off the machine it can happend if you have an auto stop switch that there is someting wrong with a switch or the electric field / capacitor by start a problem is that the thermal protection of the powerswitch does appeal to you, or there is a problem somewhere with a parbaksvalve-ring pressure control bypass or automatic engine stop
Sometimes there is only to have replace the switch but leaking between handle and pump housing and if there is an automatic stop present it can give motor ruin of the electric field and capacitor if its continu repeats because of willing work and shut off many times repeat will give on the microswitch if there is an automatic stop 27 A every time over an switch its to high . its sometimes quite a chore . but there must be in the answer if you have an pulley with water hose on your machine and the machine you have used and pull the power off do not forget to release the pressure of the hose !!!!!!! because there are been springs used it will over time shorten
And then it will function the wrong way what made damage the thermical security of the powerswitch.
First check power coming into the unit. Should be 220 volts. If not check the plug. Then pull the face off and check the thermal cutoff. On Samsung it is the little thermostat closest to you on the blower housing. You can jump the wires and see if it comes on. If it does replace that thermostat. If thats not it make sure the belt is routed around the tensioner correctly. The switch you are talking about on the back of the motor is the belt switch. When the lever on the switch is compressed it kills the circuit and your motor will not start. Also check inside the blower housing for anything that could keep the motor from starting. If none of that works I'd look at the motor. Hope this helps
yes there is a large belt that surrounds the drum and ataches to the motor check the rear of the dryer to see if the belt jumped the pulley or if it broke i have seen them jump off the pulley due to debre
They are supposed to be connected to the motor. Does the motor run when that doors individual switch is pressed? What do the ends of wire look like, connected to something or does it have clips at ends? If motor still runs then these wires are for manipulating the rack& pulley system for operation of the window glass.........sodeep
your electric clutch may need adjustment. Take the hood off. Look behind the double pulley that's on the crank shaft. Behind the pulley is an electric clutch. You will need a .010-.015 feeler gage and check between the clutch plates. You will tighten the three screws that mount the clutch to the motor. Try and get as close to .010" as you can. After adjustment start the motor and try and engage the pto. I bet it will work.
Check the pressure switch, they can become stuck in the open position. You can jump it to see if it is functioning or use a multimeter if you have one. Assuming that you've oiled and taken care of it it is unlikely that it simly quit, but that could happen... check across the poles of the motor for continuity which will tell you if the electric motor is blown. ALso make sure the compresor is not seized...
Most likely the window regulator cables got tangled. That happened on 3 of my windows, but the motor should be fine they usually last quite a while. Electronics are good, but the mechanical part sucks. There are 2 cables one pulls the window up while the other cable winds onto a pulley. The pulley has channels in it that the cables sometime jump out of and get derailed. Replacing the window reg can cost 50 if you're lucky to 100 at Autozone or checker, that doesn't include labor. You can do it yourself, but it's a pain in the ****. Give yourself around 3 hours to do it because you will spend a while getting the window threshold or whatever the hell it is that seals it back into place. Use WD-40 to lube it so that it will slide onto the window. You'll know what I mean if you do it yourself. At the dealer plan on 300 to get it done.
From what you have written it seems like when the glow plugs are activated the voltage drops to zilch.
I would check the battery terminal connections, the earth (ground) connections to the body / engine, and the wiring to the glow plugs. Those glow plugs draw around 60 Amps!
"When I tried to jump start the vehicle the car barely turned over" suggests a defective circuit to the started motor too. All in all I'd check everything above, but especially the earthing, which is a common factor in all of your symptoms. The battery may well be fine.
If these suggestions do help you solve the problem, please give my reply a rating to help others judge my knowledge / guessing skills. If they do not, please add a comment with more details so I can try to help you further. Cheers, D
Motors of this sort have a "start" winding, to give them an extra boost to get them turning. Once they're turning, the start winding shuts off. Critical to this is the start capacitor which, when shorted, causes the exact symptom you've described. The motor's "regular" winding gets power (and then hums), but it needs that extra boost to actually start turning. Have someone check the capacitor (with an ohmeter) or check to see if the motor's start winding is open (broken).