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Your stove has a faulty sensor that is used to detect the flame of either the pilot that gets lit by the ignition or the burner itself. Without knowing the brand and model of the oven, it will be impossible to know which parts are affected.
There can be a number of things causing that... Is the oven vented? If so then is there a good cap on the pipe?? is the vent pipe high enough above the roof line? Is there a draft diverter at the back of the oven where the pipe hooks on? A direct connection can cause this... Is there a vent hood in the room that the oven is in??? Is there enough makeup air, or is the vent blower pulling air back down the stack? Is the main burners "pulling" the pilot flame away from the thermocouple? Is the "hood" on the pilot flame adjusted properly to keep the flame on the thermocouple? Is the thermocouple positioned in the flame properly? Is the thermocouple correctly tighten into the gas valve?
These questions are what I would be looking for if I was troubleshooting that appliance...
need more info. if the actual trigger that you press with your finger came out then it attactes back to the handle guard. there should be a screw on the back of the handle were you hold it. if you take this off the handle guard should come off. inside of this you should see two half moon clips inside that the trigger snaps into.
Tighten down the nut on top the safety valve till it bottoms out. Then adjust it. The air shutter needs to be adjusted as well. You must do this while the oven is lit. The flame needs to creep no further than half way up the spreader. Ye must get the proper air to gas ratio and the only way to do it is to tinker away at it while the oven is lit.Crank down and flip machines are very simple to convert. NOTE: new gas safetys do not come factory set. They come tightened down (b Turning the orifice counter clockwise allows more gas , turning it clockwise allows less gas. Since the bi-metal safety is a slow opener that explains why you have a nive flame to start and then as time goes by the flap opens and allows for an overshoot of gas. tighten the valve clockwise to get the flame set as soon as you notive yellow. By the way I am sure a propane guy from your supplier would be willing to help you get it in tune if you feel a bit shakey about laying on the floor and adjusting the flames on an oven.
all ovens, when they reach temperature they go off and on to kip the temperature, but if you smell gas the oven ignitor needs replacing, the ignitor gets red hot to ignite the burner ,but when ignitor does not get hot enough, it will have a delayed, that's the reason you smell gas.
usual cause of fumes is if the grill is in the oven, when for example a roast is done, fat spits onto the grill element and the circular element and smokes. if you leave it on, the smoke will clear. some ovens have a fat guard which clips over the grill in the centre of the back panel to prevent this.
to clean glass, just use scouring pads - glass is virtually impossible to scratch
My progress to date (20090127):
1 Turn off the gas supply to the oven
2 Turn off the electricity supply
3 Remove the oven linings
4 Remove the storage drawer
5 Remove the three screws holding on the bottom trim and the trim
6 Crank up the front roller
7 Pull out the oven carefully making sure the gas hose and electrical lead are long enough and not caught
8 Working from the rear of the Rangemaster, for the right-hand oven, remove the four screws on the corners of the large cover plate at the back of the oven about half way down on the left-hand side as viewed from the back.
9 Remove the cover plate.
10 Go to the front of the oven. Above the burner assembly, towards the left is a thin metal rod running front to back. This is held in place by a clip at the back and by the hole in the metal frame at the front. Remove the metal clip at the back using a pair of long-nosed pliers. Retain the clip.
11 This should release the metal rod (flame sensing device) and you should be able to push it through the hole and out at the back. It is attached to a long copper wire.
12 Go to the back of the range. You should be able to work the wire back through the hole in the rear metal plate and up to the gas valve. The wire is held in place at the gas valve by a bent clip on the rear right. Carefully bend this clip back towards the oven to release the wire.
13 The wire goes down under the gas valve and to a threded bolt end into the bottom of the gas valve ad the bolt is held in place using a locking nut.
14 Remove the locking nut using a small spanner. The threded bolt should now turn, with the aid of long-nosed pliers.
15 The next trick is to remove this threaded bolt on the end of the copper wire and I have not figured out how to do that. It will unscrew a good way but becomes tight and will not come out, as though something inside the valve is holding it in place. Could it be that the flame sensing device has to be removed and inserted from inside the gas valve? If so, what a daft piece of engineering this is.