Continuity stopped working on my T-Pro

If your starter will not stop turning over then your starter solenoid contact bar is stuck in the closed position. It should only close when you hit the starter button. With the solenoid out of the bike check the solenoid battery terminals for continuity. If there is continuity across the large terminals, replace the starter solenoid

The #61-085 does not have batteries. (It does not test for continuity) The #61-086 does have batteries.
1. Replace batteries when touching the leads together no longer lights the continuity LED or produces an audible sound. 2. Remove test leads from tester. 3. Loosen the encapsulated screw from the bottom of the case. 4. Remove battery cap. 5. Replace the batteries with (4) new 1.5V button-type batteries (IDEAL# 61-201, IEC #LR44, or NEOA# 1166A). 6. Replace battery cap and re-tighten the encapsulated screw.
Here is the link to the complete manual. http://www.idealindustries.com/media/pdfs/products/instructions/nd-3401-2_61-085-086_instructions.pdf
If you have any other questions, just ask. Don't forget to rate this answer.

yes. But you have to change the LEADS down below. One must connect into the Omega connection at the bottom (looks like an upside down horseshoe). And the meter setting is where the arrow (?) symbol is. Touch the two leads together and it should "zero out". Now you're ready to check continuity.

Sounds like you have and open limit switch trace the wires from the gas valve one will go straight to the terminal board the other one will go through all the safety limits take an ohm meter (an ohm meter beeps or lights up when you touch the leads together showing a direct connection also called continuity) and check each limit switch by touching one of the meters leads to one wire on the switch and the other meters lead to the other wire on the switch if no continuity is there your switch is open some switch's have little reset buttons on them. Find the open switch and reset or replace.

Well, its not exactly a published procedure, but this is what I would do.

Check field for continuity between leads, as well as continuity from each lead to the core. Between leads, you should have continuity, but you shouldn't be able to measure anything (perhaps in megohm range) between leads and core.

Once you have continuity, check your diode. You should have continuity in one direction only. If not, replace diode. Don't worry about capacitor / regulator at this moment.

Check stator winding for continuity between leads, (don't forget the 12 volt winding too), as well as between each lead and the core. You should not have continuity to the core from any lead.

Make sure breakers are reset, then check continuity through them. Should have it, replace if not. Same goes for the outlet itself.

Reassemble the engine, and start it. Check for a DC voltage at the 12volt battery charger port. If you have it, then your capacitor / regulator is shot. If you don't have it, replace the diode (even if checked good) and the capacitor / regulator. If still don't have 120vac, you can try to flash the field by momentarily touching a small lamp battery (6 volt lantern) to the core, and to one of the brushes. Just for a moment. Then restart. Exact flashing instructions are usually in the user manual.

Have fun!

If you have a good fuse, you hear the defrost relay clicking then I would say ....

If you can use a multimeter you can look for power at the back window.

If you have power but arent getting any heat you can then use the multimeter on continuity check to track down the break in the rear window heating grid. *(some cars put the grid between two pieces of glass or use coatings on the exterior...if yours is one of these the test I described will not work).

You put the tester on continuity and touch the leads together and see if you hear a beep sound. That's good continuity. Now turn off the defroster at the switch. Putting one lead on one of the window power contacts you can then use the other lead to see how far the grid has continuity. When you find no continuity, you have located the break!
Be patient, there could be more than one break.

There are places to shop online where you can buy the conductive paint to patch the break in your window grid.

Good luck and be careful.

You either have a bad thermostat,heating element,cord, or limit.If it was me I would check each component with a meter for continuity. Get a cheap meter that beeps when you touch the 2 leads together. This is continuity or a continuous circuit. One of them things I mentioned is kaput. This is not rocket science. Limits can be bought cheap. Let me know what you find out.

If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

Check the element with an OHM meter.

This is not rocket science and an OHM meter can be used for many things. Any good appliance parts place, even Wal-Mart will have a meter which can be set to test AC/DC, OHM's etc. Set the meter on OHM setting and touch the two leads on the meter together, you will see the meter arm move. This is simply a test for continuity. Now take the element out of the Range, touch one lead to one end of the element and the other lead to the other end. If you do not get any reading then there is a break inside the element and must be replaced. If you get any reading at all then the element is good and the eye switch must be replaced.

There are some parts which require knowing how many OHM's but in this case you just need to check for a break inside the element (continuity).

You can check an extension cord this way or set it on the volts setting and check batteries. all kinds of fun.

Check the heating unit with an OHM meter.

This is not rocket science. An OHM meter will check for continuity (a break inside the heating unit). Any appliance parts place will have a meter, even Wal-Mart. The meter can be set for AC/DC/ OHM's, Volts, etc.

Set the meter on OHM and touch the two leads on the meter together and the meter arm should move. Now, take the heating unit out of the range and touch one lead to one end of the heating unit and the other lead to the other end. If you get a reading then the unit is good and the switch must be replaced.
No reading, replace the heating unit.

Some parts require knowing how many OHM's but in this case any kind of reading will show there is no break inside the unit (continuity).

You can check extensions cords this way or set it on volts and check batteries. Everyone should have one.

don't worry about the thermostats they wont stop the drier from running set your meter to continuity should have a wave symbol on it touch the leads of the meter together to make sure its working should read zero then touch the leads to each end of the component and if it reads ol or open its bad any time you take a component reading you must make sure at least one side of the component is unplugged to prevent getting a false reading