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He5 elite dryer 110.8772

After i did an annual clean. I must have crossed wires on the heating element. in short when i turned the dryer back on I blew the Thermal Fuse blew. In fact it blew the contact legs clean off. Is there a wiring diagram to show me how to reconnect the wires to the the thermal fuse and the thermostat which are all mounted to the side of the heating element housing. its a model 110.8772

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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ronpar
  • 27 Answers

SOURCE: Whirlpool Duet Dryer - Working but no heat

it sounds like your heating element is gone bad. there is no heat if they burn out or get corroded

Posted on Jun 29, 2008

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TheMobilian
  • 8220 Answers

SOURCE: Kenmore Dryer Model 110

If all of the components are reading ok then you need a timer. Touch your 2 leads together. 0 ohms rght. That means you have a complete circuit.If you get the 0 reading then the element must be otay. Bad timer. Take that fancy meater of yours and atttach one of them leads to the timer leg marked RH. Yank the wire off the terminal beore you test. Move the timer around. You should get the famous 0 reading along the way. If you don't then that means you have the bad timer.

Posted on Feb 05, 2009

protek480
  • 1714 Answers

SOURCE: whirlpool leb6000pq1 not heating

Thermostat controls heat. There is also a

motor centrifulgal switch, in the element

circuit, that the motor closes to insure

the motor is turning. Try another heat

setting. There is more than one

thermostat. You may have blown the

'thermal fuse' too, which requires

replacement. The elecment has a contact in

the 'timer' circuit too.

It is possible that your element has

failed also.

Tripped high limit. Must clean the lint

filter and the exhaust vent tube and all

the way in to the dryer. Hot air exit is

restricted.

Posted on Jul 12, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Maytag Performa PYE2200AYW Dryer Heats intermittently

i had the same problem with my dryer and i installed the wrong thermal fuse for gas dryer which calls for a pink thermal fuse in which i installed and it works fine also check the lint in the front of your dryer. also my dryer which is the same make as yours seems will run on the fluff cycle until i replaced the right thermal fuse. my dryer run exceptionally hot and eventally shut down and it only run on the fluff cycle for any length of time.

Posted on Sep 22, 2009

jumptrout51
  • 3361 Answers

SOURCE: Whirlpool Dryer not heating

The motor has to be running for voltage to exit the motor going to the heater. With the back off the dryer and the motor running you should read 220 volts at the heater if all safetys and thermostats are good.
There is a thermal cut out relay on the heat canister. It must read continuity also.
Remember you must remove at least one wire from each component being tested to get a true open or closed reading. If a wire is left connected you get a false reading.
The heating element could be broken and part of the heater wire touching the canister. This would cause a continuity reading and still no heat.
Finally, yes,the centrifugal switch in the motor could be bad and not sending power to the heater on the red wire.

Posted on Oct 18, 2009

Testimonial: "I did determine it to be the cetrepetal switch..specifically the slide for the weights was heavily gummed up with dryer belt dust. It works now."

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Any of the following components are more than likely suspect as being bad:

Heating Element
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All these components COMBINED, should cost less than $100. If you fix it yourself, you will avoid the additional cost for labor.

If the dryer isn't blowing ANY air at all, but the drum still turns, you may have a bad blower fan assembly inside the dryer. Or, the blower fan assembly may be clogged.

If your dryer performance has been failing (i.e., clothes taking longer to dry), it may be for a reason. You need to ask yourself when the last time you cleaned the dryer ventilation. If you can't remember, or if it has never been done, this can contribute to the dryer failing. All dryers need proper air flow in order to dry properly. If the ducting becomes clogged, the heating circuits will actually overheat and eventually fail. This usually results in the Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) blowing or the Heating Element failing or BOTH. When these components fail, they must be replaced. Remove the dryer hose from the back of the dryer and inspect it thoroughly from where it leaves the dryer to where it exits your home. It should be clear with no kinks or clogs. If your vent line runs under a crawl space make sure it is suspended above the ground and has no sags where lint could collect. RULE OF THUMB: The SHORTER and STRAIGHTER the vent duct, the BETTER. After you inspect the vent ducting, turn the dryer on and make sure you have forceful air flow coming form the dryer. This will prove that your blower fan is working properly or not. Since you stated that your dryer is not currently heating, the air will be cold, but you should still have some force behind it. If the air flow is weak, you need to clean the duct work INSIDE the dryer. It is important to keep a dryer checked routinely. I recommend once per season (that's 4 times per year). Dryers are the cause of many house fires. These fires are due to lint accumulations inside the unit catching on fire. A little preventive maintenance can prevent significant problems in the future.

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