Question about Kenmore Dryers
After i did an annual clean. I must have crossed wires on the heating element. in short when i turned the dryer back on I blew the Thermal Fuse blew. In fact it blew the contact legs clean off. Is there a wiring diagram to show me how to reconnect the wires to the the thermal fuse and the thermostat which are all mounted to the side of the heating element housing. its a model 110.8772
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Kenmore Dryer Model 110
If all of the components are reading ok then you need a timer. Touch your 2 leads together. 0 ohms rght. That means you have a complete circuit.If you get the 0 reading then the element must be otay. Bad timer. Take that fancy meater of yours and atttach one of them leads to the timer leg marked RH. Yank the wire off the terminal beore you test. Move the timer around. You should get the famous 0 reading along the way. If you don't then that means you have the bad timer.
Posted on Feb 05, 2009
SOURCE: whirlpool leb6000pq1 not heating
Thermostat controls heat. There is also a
motor centrifulgal switch, in the element
circuit, that the motor closes to insure
the motor is turning. Try another heat
setting. There is more than one
thermostat. You may have blown the
'thermal fuse' too, which requires
replacement. The elecment has a contact in
the 'timer' circuit too.
It is possible that your element has
Tripped high limit. Must clean the lint
filter and the exhaust vent tube and all
the way in to the dryer. Hot air exit is
Posted on Jul 12, 2009
i had the same problem with my dryer and i installed the wrong thermal fuse for gas dryer which calls for a pink thermal fuse in which i installed and it works fine also check the lint in the front of your dryer. also my dryer which is the same make as yours seems will run on the fluff cycle until i replaced the right thermal fuse. my dryer run exceptionally hot and eventally shut down and it only run on the fluff cycle for any length of time.
Posted on Sep 22, 2009
SOURCE: Whirlpool Dryer not heating
The motor has to be running for voltage to exit the motor going to the heater. With the back off the dryer and the motor running you should read 220 volts at the heater if all safetys and thermostats are good.
There is a thermal cut out relay on the heat canister. It must read continuity also.
Remember you must remove at least one wire from each component being tested to get a true open or closed reading. If a wire is left connected you get a false reading.
The heating element could be broken and part of the heater wire touching the canister. This would cause a continuity reading and still no heat.
Finally, yes,the centrifugal switch in the motor could be bad and not sending power to the heater on the red wire.
Posted on Oct 18, 2009
Testimonial: "I did determine it to be the cetrepetal switch..specifically the slide for the weights was heavily gummed up with dryer belt dust. It works now."
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