Question about GE GSS25QGPBB / GSS25QGPCC / GSS25QGPWW Side by Side Refrigerator
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: ref no cooling freezer okay
There's alot of things to check here, David. But, since it's a GE, I'll assume a defrost problem 'cause they are known for those issues. Is there ice/frost buildup on the rear wall of the freezer? If so, it's not defrosting. 3 things will cause a "no defrost" condition. Failed evaporator thermister, Failed defrost heater and failed electronic control. Your model has problems with the first 2, rarely the 3'rd. You can get your machine cooling again by manually defrosting it. Simple, unplug it for 24 hours and leave the freezer door cracked open an inch or so. After time is up, plug it back in and it'll cool just fine for a week maybe two, 'til the frost builds back up again. This'll buy you time to get parts and do the repair and besides... it has to be done anyway. Even if you had the parts in hand and did the repair right now, you'd still have to manually defrost it. Post back and let us know.
Posted on Aug 01, 2007
The evaporator coil behind the cover on the back
wall inside the freezer will ice up under normal conditions. Every 8 to 10
hours for around 20 minutes the defrost timer (or in most newer models the electronic
adaptive defrost control) will turn the defrost heater on to
melt the built up ice. There is a defrost thermostat which prevents the heater from
overheating the freezer by breaking the heater circuit when the temp reaches
close to 32 degrees F. The entire cooling system shuts off during the defrost
cycle and starts back when the timer advances through the cycle.
If this ice is not melted it will continue to build up until the air can’t flow over the coil to circulate the cold air through the freezer and into the fridge. The temperature change in the fridge is usually noticed first followed by the freezer.
If the defrost thermostat is bad it can prevent the heater from coming on OR it won’t turn the heater off when it gets too warm. It is clamped to the evaporator coil at the top to sense the temp. If it appears to be misshapen it is bad.
With an ohm meter it should show continuity when cold and none when warm.
You can also bypass the thermostat to see if the heater comes on then. If it does then you know the thermostat is bad and needs replaced.
The defrost heater is located on the evaporator. It is in a tube which is at the bottom and can also go up the sides of the evaporator. On some types you can see a burnt spot if it’s bad. With an ohm meter it should show continuity from end to end when disconnected from the wiring in the freezer. You can also test the wiring for voltage when it’s in the defrost mode.
If you have a defrost timer you can test it. It can be located under the fridge behind the kick panel on the front. Some are in the fridge with the controls at the top. You can turn the defrost timer till it clicks and everything shuts down. The heater should now come on. If it does, replace the timer because that means the timer is not running. If it doesn't, check the heater and defrost thermostat. Turn the timer again till everything starts back up to end the defrost cycle.
If you have an adaptive defrost control instead of a timer, replace it if the heater and thermostat test good. It is located in the fridge with the controls in some models and on the back in others.
If you need help finding your model number see here> http://www.appliancepartspros.com/modelnumber_locator.aspx
To locate your timer, motherboard, control or adaptive defrost control , enter your model number and search for the part or post back on Fixya.
Posted on Sep 28, 2009
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