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Jenn aire model jjw8530aaw can't set turn on. Oven says off and won't let me set temp

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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catriver
  • 878 Answers

SOURCE: Jenn Air wall oven-Broiler element comes on and will not turn off....

Boone, by the sound of your post it sounds like the power relay board could be bad. If you had a stuck or shorted keypad, you should be getting a different code. The F2 code means an overheated condition. If it's a double oven it could mean a secondary board failure. The way to go on this would be to ohm out the temp sensor first. Should read about 1100 ohms at room temp. Another way to check it is to swap the bake and broil wires on the power relay board. They will be marked BA and BR. Fire the oven up again and if the bake element comes on then you know that the broil relay is stuck or shorted. Without being there to do the tests, I believe that the problem lies in the power relay board. The part number for the board is 71003431. Priced around 116.00. Jenn-Air usually has a 5 year warranty on these parts. Hope this points you in the right direction. Catriver..post back

Posted on Apr 10, 2007

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fridgetech
  • 473 Answers

SOURCE: 1990 jenn air oven

Electric ovens use 220 and gas ovens use 110.

Posted on Nov 13, 2007

  • 1314 Answers

SOURCE: jenn-air expressions 27" convection wall oven model wm27460 won't heat

reset your breaker reprogram the clock try again what happend last time it was working self clean broiling etc

Posted on Dec 29, 2007

SOURCE: Jenn Air oven Model D156 won't turn on

get a new range

Posted on Aug 11, 2008

iwillfixforu
  • 619 Answers

SOURCE: I have a Jenn Air W131 model wall oven and I

If this is the problem no it isn't hard at all. Should be able to change right thru the oven without pulling out of wall. Make sure power off while doing this tho. But ist make sure broil does work.

Posted on Feb 02, 2010

Testimonial: "Thank you very much. I will give it a try."

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My oven is an "pilot-less" oven, it uses an electric igniter. Although the "ignitor" was "glowing red hot", the problem is that the gas valve depend on a certain amount of current. If you have a 120V house system, I think the valve needs 3.3 to 3.6 amps to turn on. The current flows through the igniter and then through the valve, as in a same path, like water. So you need an AMP meter to check proper current flow. I read 2.4 amps. I replaced the "glowing red hot" igniter with a new one, Vo"la it was fixed.

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