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Pump hums ,removed filter ,found piece of plastic,removed ran with out replacing filter sounded fine,reattached filter assembly and ran..hums again

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SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

SOURCE: Removing the detergent dispenser

tell Kitchenaid to include an extra little blue thing and charge $3.00 for it

Posted on Aug 03, 2008

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Engine won't crank. seems like no fuel getting to engine. Had the dealer replace the fuel relay worked for several days... replace it again myself....but still won't crank.


SOUND LIKE FUEL PUMP FAILURE FUEL FILTER LOCATED ON THE FUEL PUMP ASSEMBLY REPLACE THE SOCK FILTER IT COULD BE PLUGGED IF FUEL FILTER OKAY OR CANT BE REPLACED YOU HAVE TO REPLACE WHOLE FUEL PUMP ASSEMBLY WITH FUEL FILTER TO REMOVE FUEL PUMP YOU NEED TO REMOVE SECOND ROW LEFT HAND SEAT, REMOVE THIRD ROW SEAT,REMOVE SECOND AND THIRD ROW SEAT BELT BUCKLES MOUNTED TO THE FLOOR,REMOVE LEFT HAND CENTER PILLAR,REMOVE LEFT HAND REAR TRIM PANEL, REMOVE LEFT HAND REAR SIDE DOOR KICK PLATE AND WEATHER STRIPPING, REMOVE SECOND ROW REAR CENTER CONSOLE AND BASE IF EQUIPPED, REMOVE THE INSPECTION HOLE COVER UNDER CARPET BY TURNING RETAINER 90 DEGREES REMOVE ELECTRICAL CONNECTORS, REMOVE EVAP HOSE.REMOVE SUPPLY HOSE, REMOVE LOCK RING USING SPECIAL TOOL J - 46214, REMOVE FUEL LEVEL SENSOR, REMOVE FUEL FILTER AND THE FUEL PUMP ASSEMBLY.BESURE DEPRESSURIZE FUEL SYSTEM BEFORE DISCONNECTING ANY FUEL LINES AT THR FUEL TANK.

Jul 16, 2011 | 2004 Nissan Armada

1 Answer

How to install fuel filter&pump


  • De-pressurize the Camry's fuel system. With the gas cap open (to release pressure in that location), open the fuse/relay panel under the hood and remove the relay labeled "C/OPN." Start the engine and let it run until it stops. Disconnect the battery's negative cable.

  • Detach the rear seat from the car. Lift up the front edge of the seat bottom cushion, disconnect the mounting bolt underneath and remove the cushion. Pull up the seat back locks, flip the seat backs down and remove the mounting bolts.

  • Remove the service hole cover from the floor under the seat concealing the fuel pump/sending unit.

  • Disconnect the fuel line and electrical connectors from the fuel pump unit. Remove the retaining bolts and withdraw the unit carefully out of the fuel tank.

  • Release the clips on the fuel pump assembly's plastic support with a screwdriver to remove the support. Then pull off the rubber isolator, remove the fuel sock filter and disconnect the electrical connector from the top of the assembly. You can now withdraw the fuel pump from the housing.

  • Connect the new fuel pump into place on the assembly housing. Reassemble the fuel pump/sending unit in order, from the electrical connector to the fuel sock filter, rubber isolator and bottom plastic support.

  • Place the pump unit back within the fuel tank and reattach the bolts. Reconnect the electrical connectors and the fuel line. Reattach the rear seats.

  • Replace the "C/OPN" relay, reconnect the negative battery cable and fill the fuel tank if it is empty.

  • Pressurize the Camry's fuel system by turning the ignition on for a couple of seconds. Then turn it off for ten and repeat this five to ten times.

  • Jan 02, 2011 | 1996 Toyota Camry

    8 Answers

    Samsung DMR78 dishwasher makes a grinding noise at the beginning of the wash cycle as well as the rinse cycle. Also comes up with the code 9E on occasion.


    Check the brackets that hold the top rack for any broken plastic brackets. My dishwasher was making the same noise and after noticing the broken plastic pieces I pulled out the dishwasher put it on its side removed a white panel on the bottom that is attached with two screws, removed the drain line and inside there were two plastic tabs from the broken bracket. Once those were removed the grinding noise stopped. The bracket holding the drain hose can be removed with a pair of pliers.

    Jan 01, 2011 | Samsung DMR78AHS Builtin Dishwasher

    1 Answer

    My kenmore top load will spin with no water in it but will only hum if there is a load. agitates ok but then just hums. Lid switch is OK


    This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump
    removes most of the water) machine.

    First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
    http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action

    Enter your model number (110.#######) and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.

    Three possibilities: since you can hear the motor (Ranging from easiest to messiest) None of the suggestions are very expensive.



    Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive washers use a "Motor Coupler" between the motor and transmission.

    It's used as a fail safe device and consists of three parts.

    Two of the parts are the same, plastic units with three prongs that fit on one of the motor output shafts and the other on the

    transmission input shaft. Between them is a rubber piece with six holes.

    The power from the motor is transmitted through the rubber piece to the transmission.

    The other shaft on the motor directly drives the pump.

    If the motor coupler is broken, or worn, the motor may not be able to send full power to the transmission for agitating or
    spinning.

    See the following for how to remove the cabinet, pump, motor and motor mounting plate to inspect and replace the motor coupler.

    http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=135

    If the coupler looks damaged, it's a relatively easy fix.

    Pry the plastic pieces from the motor and transmission. Some people use a claw hammer but I've found that using a small (6 inch) pry bar works well.

    Carefully fit the plastic pieces over the motor and transmission shafts and press them in place (Use a 1/2" of larger socket to put pressure equally around the pieces.

    Put the rubber piece on the transmission plastic piece.

    Replace the motor mounting plate.

    Carefully line up the plastic prongs on the motor based plastic piece to the three un-used holes in the rubber piece. If they don't line up right, the coupler could be damaged.

    Mount the motor, don't forget the two screws, put the pump back on the motor and use its' clips.

    Put the cabinet back on, don't forget to plug the lid switch back in and re-mount the console.


    If the motor coupler is OK, the problem could be the clutch:

    Sears has a replacement clutch band kit.

    See the following for how to pull the pump, motor and transmission.

    You DON'T HAVE TO PULL THE AGITATORS OR TUB.

    http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137&osCsid=65fc1c013d6130868b14c8bb4baf7bfd

    Also see the Whirlpool / kenmore service manual for these washers.

    https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf

    Both the Motor coupler (available from most appliance parts stores) and the clutch band kit are relatively inexpensive.

    See the Following Whirlpool parts list for alternatives to the Sears part numbers.

    http://shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/assets/pdfs/literature/Repair%20Part%20List%20-%20W10114743.pdf


    If the Motor Coupler is fine, and the clutch bands and springs are OK the problem could well be the transmission. "Neutral Drain Assembly".

    See the Whirlpool / Kenmore Service manual for transmission operations on top load direct drive washers.

    WHIRLPOOL TRANSMISSION DESCRIPTION AND SPRINGS

    https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/2550f737b3129b0c85256b0600504738/$FILE/787772%20%234.pdf


    Those cams/gears etc. in that assembly keep the washer from spinning until all of the water is pumped out and then go into spin mode.

    When ours had a similar problem, we looked at the transmission parts list (available on a number of sites) and on the Whirlpool site (Whirlpool makes Kenmore) and noticed that the one of the cams in the neutral assembly which is supposed to have a small spring, didn't on ours when we tore the transmission apart again

    http://shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/assets/pdfs/literature/Repair%20Part%20List%20-%20W10114743.pdf

    Found the part number for a kit (Whirlpool part number 388253 Neutral Assembly) for $15.00 and replaced the cams and gears.

    In order to get the transmission out, you have to remove the cabinet, the fabric dispenser and both agitators. The top agitator uses a plastic 1/2" drive bolt (a 1/2" socket extension works well).

    You don't have to remove the drum.

    http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137

    Lay the machine down (after disconnecting power and hoses, remove the pump (two clips), the motor (two screws hold two clips on the motor), lift and set the motor aside.

    Remove two 1/2 inch bolts for the motor mounting plate and three 1/2 inch bolts for the transmission.

    Pull the transmission, remove the clutch (there is a spring clip that holds the clutch on the main agitator shaft), remove the 8 screws carefully the transmission holds 15Oz of 80-90 weight gear oil, remove the clip holding the main spin gear on and check the plastic cams and spin gear.

    If the cam that should have a spring doesn't, or the others look damaged, or the main spin gear is damaged the washer won't go into spin mode.

    If that's the problem, install a Neutral drain kit or spin gear, put everything back together carefully and the problem may be solved.

    As an aside, fixing ours cost less than $30 including 80-90 weight gear oil vs. $170 for a new transmission.

    Sep 08, 2010 | Kenmore 22422 Top Load Washer

    1 Answer

    I had fuel tank straps replaced on 1999 Mercury Mystique. next day started having engine problems , replaced fuel filter ran fine couple of days,now its doing it again .I believe its not getting enough...


    It could be that in the process of having the fuel tank straps fitted some dirt or rust inside the tank has come loose and clogged the gauze input filter that is part of the fuel pump inside the fuel tank. You will need to remove the pump assembly from the tank. Access to it is usually through a removable plate in the floor under the back seat. Once you have the pump assembly out allow the gauze filter to dry. You can assess the amount of clogging by sining a torch through the gauze and see how much light comes through. Clean it by brushing with an old tooth brush and blowing clean with compressed air. If there is a lot f dirt/rust in the tank, try draining it. You may have to repeat the cleaning process again in few months if the symptoms appear again

    Aug 19, 2010 | 1999 Mercury Mystique

    1 Answer

    No longer agitates and spins it just hums


    This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump
    removes most of the water) machine.

    First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
    http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action

    Enter your model number (110.#######) and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.

    Four possibilities: (Ranging from easiest to messiest)


    Newer model Whirlpool / Kenmore washers use a Lid Switch as a safety device. Unless the switch senses that the lid on the washer is closed, the washer will neither agitate nor spin.

    Older models only used the switch during the spin cycle.

    Try to bypass the Lid Switch by removing the Console and jumping the two outermost pins on the switch.

    This is a Whirlpool PDF on how these washers operate. It has a diagram on jumping the switch as well as a detailed section on how the transmission works.

    https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf


    It also has a troubleshooting guide.

    To bypass the switch, you only have to disconnect the power to the washer, tilt the console back, unplug the switch and using an short piece of insulated wire, jump the two outermost contacts on the connector coming from the console and plug the washer back in.

    Following is a description of how to gain access to the console and how to remove the cabinet if necessary.

    http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=131&osCsid=913ba652cd504fb162f87d892bcb427b

    With the jumper in place, try to re-start the washer.

    If it works, the Lid Switch is a relatively inexpensive part.

    If the washer still doesn't work, check the motor coupler.

    Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive washers use a "Motor Coupler" between the motor and transmission.

    It's used as a fail safe device and consists of three parts.

    Two of the parts are the same, plastic units with three prongs that fit on one of the motor output shafts and the other on the

    transmission input shaft. Between them is a rubber piece with six holes.

    The power from the motor is transmitted through the rubber piece to the transmission.

    The other shaft on the motor directly drives the pump.

    If the motor coupler is broken, or worn, the motor may not be able to send full power to the transmission for agitating or
    spinning.

    See the following for how to remove the cabinet, pump, motor and motor mounting plate to inspect and replace the motor coupler.

    http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=135

    If the coupler looks damaged, it's a relatively easy fix.

    Pry the plastic pieces from the motor and transmission. Some people use a claw hammer but I've found that using a small (6 inch) pry bar works well.

    Carefully fit the plastic pieces over the motor and transmission shafts and press them in place (Use a 1/2" of larger socket to put pressure equally around the pieces.

    Put the rubber piece on the transmission plastic piece.

    Replace the motor mounting plate.

    Carefully line up the plastic prongs on the motor based plastic piece to the three un-used holes in the rubber piece. If they don't line up right, the coupler could be damaged.

    Mount the motor, don't forget the two screws, put the pump back on the motor and use its' clips.

    Put the cabinet back on, don't forget to plug the lid switch back in and re-mount the console.


    If the motor coupler is OK, the problem could be the clutch:

    Sears has a replacement clutch band kit.

    See the following for how to pull the pump, motor and transmission.

    You DON'T HAVE TO PULL THE AGITATORS OR TUB.

    http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137&osCsid=65fc1c013d6130868b14c8bb4baf7bfd

    Also see the Whirlpool / kenmore service manual for these washers.

    https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf

    Both the Motor coupler (available from most appliance parts stores) and the clutch band kit are relatively inexpensive.

    See the Following Whirlpool parts list for alternatives to the Sears part numbers.

    http://shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/assets/pdfs/literature/Repair%20Part%20List%20-%20W10114743.pdf


    If you've tested the Lid Switch and the Motor Coupler is fine, and the clutch bands and springs are OK the problem could well be the transmission. "Neutral Drain Assembly".

    See the Whirlpool / Kenmore Service manual for transmission operations on top load direct drive washers.

    WHIRLPOOL TRANSMISSION DESCRIPTION AND SPRINGS

    https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/2550f737b3129b0c85256b0600504738/$FILE/787772%20%234.pdf


    Those cams/gears etc. in that assembly keep the washer from spinning until all of the water is pumped out and then go into spin mode.

    When ours had a similar problem, we looked at the transmission parts list (available on a number of sites) and on the Whirlpool site (Whirlpool makes Kenmore) and noticed that the one of the cams in the neutral assembly which is supposed to have a small spring, didn't on ours when we tore the transmission apart again

    http://shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/assets/pdfs/literature/Repair%20Part%20List%20-%20W10114743.pdf

    Found the part number for a kit (Whirlpool part number 388253 Neutral Assembly) for $15.00 and replaced the cams and gears.

    In order to get the transmission out, you have to remove the cabinet, the fabric dispenser and both agitators. The top agitator uses a plastic 1/2" drive bolt (a 1/2" socket extension works well).

    You don't have to remove the drum.

    http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137

    Lay the machine down (after disconnecting power and hoses, remove the pump (two clips), the motor (two screws hold two clips on the motor), lift and set the motor aside.

    Remove two 1/2 inch bolts for the motor mounting plate and three 1/2 inch bolts for the transmission.

    Pull the transmission, remove the clutch (there is a spring clip that holds the clutch on the main agitator shaft), remove the 8 screws carefully the transmission holds 15Oz of 80-90 weight gear oil, remove the clip holding the main spin gear on and check the plastic cams.

    If the cam that should have a spring doesn't, or the others look damaged, or the main spin gear is damaged the washer won't go into spin mode.

    If that's the problem, install a Neutral drain kit, put everything back together carefully and the problem may be solved.

    As an aside, fixing ours cost less than $30 including 80-90 weight gear oil vs. $170 for a new transmission.



    Jul 01, 2010 | Kenmore 24032\24036 Top Load Washer

    1 Answer

    Kenmore 70 Series Washing Machine Just Hums (Won't Agitate)


    First, see the Sears Parts site for your washer:

    http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/getModel!retrieve.pd?modelNumber=110.22712100

    Also see the Whirlpool / Kenmore service manual.

    https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf

    Initial thoughts are a worn/broken motor coupler.

    See the following for how to get to it and check it.

    http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=135&osCsid=6019c5e82bfa177df953f5d6ebeac983

    Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive washers use a "Motor Coupler" between the motor and transmission.

    It's used as a fail safe device and consists of three parts.

    Two of the parts are the same, plastic units with three prongs that fit on one of the motor output shafts and the other on the transmission input shaft. Between them is a rubber piece with six holes.

    It's possible that the prongs have broken and the humming that you hear is the pieces rubbing against the center rubber piece.

    The power from the motor is transmitted through the rubber piece to the transmission.

    The other shaft on the motor directly drives the pump.

    If the motor coupler is broken, or worn, the motor may not be able to send full power to the transmission for agitating or spinning.

    See the following for how to remove the cabinet, pump, motor and motor mounting plate to inspect and replace the motor coupler.

    http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137

    If the coupler looks damaged, it's a relatively easy fix.

    Pry the plastic pieces from the motor and transmission. Some people use a claw hammer but I've found that using a small (6 inch) pry bar works well.

    Carefully fit the plastic pieces over the motor and transmission shafts and press them in place (Use a 1/2" of larger socket to put pressure equally around the pieces.

    Put the rubber piece on the transmission plastic piece.

    Replace the motor mounting plate.

    Carefully line up the plastic prongs on the motor based plastic piece to the three un-used holes in the rubber piece. If they don't line up right, the coupler could be damaged.

    Mount the motor, don't forget the two screws, put the pump back on the motor and use its' clips.

    Put the cabinet back on, don't forget to plug the lid switch back in and re-mount the console.




    Jan 10, 2010 | Kenmore Washing Machines

    1 Answer

    Drain pump problem and housing removal


    Go to appliancepartspros.com or repairclinic.com. Enter your model number. Look thru parts until you find the pump. There you will find a how to video. Pretty easy repair/replace. Good luck.

    Apr 28, 2017 | LG WM2688HWM TROMM SteamWasher

    2 Answers

    Mu daughter ran the car out of gas lastweek, but the car ran after that. the next day the car will not start, there is spark to the car, please help


    remove gas filler cap.listen at filler while someone turns key to start.you should hear pump 'hum'.if not,check inertia switch [crash switch] behind carpet on left side of trunk.if it 'hums'check fuel filter,it may be clogged.if pump makes no noise,it may require replacement.modern [plastic] fuel pumps will 'self destruct' if ran dry.gas tank must be removed to replace pump.

    Oct 12, 2009 | 1990 Ford Tempo

    2 Answers

    My washer won't fill and sounds like it's draining.


    Check to see your inlet water pipes are not clogged. Then see that your outlet drain pipe is approx 30 inches or more from the floor level. Your pump pumps the water up over the level into your wall drain or whatever. The water mark is usually marked somewhere at the rear of the machine. See that your inlet valve is closed before you check for your blockages; after you've fitted it back after cleaning, open your valve.

    Jun 13, 2007 | Kenmore 43142 Front Load Washer

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