Question about GE Profile JTP56 Electric Double Oven
I had a F Code (dont recall which) that prompte me to do all the corrective action listed on this board. After unsuccessfully solving problem resetting breaker, using eraser on ribbon connector, I replaced the Control Panelwith a new one. I fired it up, heated both ovens up to 200 degrees. turned one off and let the other heat for an hour and shut them down. I wakr up today looking at the FO Code. I reset using CLEAR button only to have FO return within a minute or two. Any ideas??
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
New users get to try the service completely Free afterwhich it costs $6 per call and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: upper oven problem,
The key pads are notorious for failing in these ovens. Usually you get an F7 code. Exactly what is happening? Do all other functions work? Did you replace the keypad/console, or just the control board?
If you only have a problem with the convection function and have replaced the control board, then there may be a problem with the convection fan motor that is knocking out the convection circuit on the board.
If you are having different problems with other functions, my experience with these ovens tells me you need a new console. The silicone switches in the keypad fail on a regular basis. I read on line somewhere that a lawyer is trying to get a class action suit concerning them.
Posted on Dec 23, 2007
My solution for the F7 problem may work for you. It won't cost you anything to try it. It is simple and free. You can find it at the following link:
Please let me know if this works for you. You can email me at:
Posted on Feb 04, 2008
you can also put a piece of paper between the ribbon cable where it joins up before the connector. It has been reported that the cable will short in this area. Try that before spending more money since most of the F-codes appear to be cable related.
Posted on Apr 21, 2009
The F2 Error code means the oven has detected an excess temperature condition. Most often this is due to a bad temperature sensor - the sensor costs about $75 from an online repair site.
How to remove and replace the temperature sensor. In most GE ovens, when you open the door, you'll see the rod-shaped temperature sensor sticking out of the back wall at the upper left. It's about six inches long and a bit more than 1/8" in diameter, held in place with two screws.
Turn off the circuit breaker (built-in ovens) or unplug the range before attempting the replacement.
The replacement sensor will come with instructions, but basically it's a matter of removing the sensor, pulling out the wires to where they are connected and disconnecting them. You may have to snip. The replacement sensor will come with high-temp wire nuts to hold the new connection. Polarity doesn't matter; it's a straight resistance thermocouple. Hook it up, be sure you poke the connections back far enough so that they're on the other side of the thermal insulation and not resting against the back of the oven.
If you continue getting the F2 error after replacing the sensor, then the problem is likely in the control module - this is the circuit board behind the keypad and clock.
You'll need to remove the decorative bezel to get behind the control panel. Remove screws and set off parts in order - it's not complicated. Once the bezel is off there are two more screws that hold the panel in place. Then you can lift the panel up about a half inch and pivot it forward toward you. You'll see a bunch of wires going to a circuit board.
On the panel you will notice some black plastic boxes that say "Potter & Brumfield" on them. These are relays. Check the relays - slide the black plastic cover straight up to expose the coil and the contacts. The coil, when energized, closes the contacts - look at all the relays. You can manually close the contacts with your finger (be gentle). If the contacts of one of them are stuck, they might be welded together. You can fix the problem by prying apart the welded contacts gently with a knife blade. Take some time to gently polish the relay contacts with a folded bit of fine grain sandpaper - this will get some more life out of them. Be gentle and careful - the relays aren't complicated but if you bend the contact or rip it out, you'll have to replace the controller, which will set you back a couple hundred dollars. If you unstick and burnish the relays, they will probably eventually weld together again as the rough spot will spark, but when you burnish them with sandpaper they should be good for some more life before they need to be replaced.
If the problem isn't the temp sensor or welded relay contacts then the problem is obviously somewhere else, but temp sensor and relay contacts will account for the lion's share of F2 errors.
Once again, be safe, be careful, be gentle. Ovens are not very complicated and they're tough, but always exercise care. Always disconnect electricity before messing with them.
Posted on Jun 28, 2009
Tips for a great answer:
Oct 07, 2014 | GE Profile JTP56 Electric Double Oven
Mar 14, 2008 | GE Profile JKP56 Electric Double Oven
Oct 05, 2011 | GE Profile JKP56 Electric Double Oven
Jun 21, 2010 | GE Profile JTP18 Electric Single Oven
Sep 02, 2009 | GE Profile JTP18 Electric Single Oven
Jan 19, 2009 | GE Profile JKP56 Electric Double Oven
Sep 21, 2008 | GE Profile JTP56 Electric Double Oven
May 18, 2008 | GE Profile JTP56 Electric Double Oven
26 people viewed this question
Usually answered in minutes!
Step 2: Please assign your manual to a product: