Question about Vivitar 1900 electronic flash Flash

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Its not loading the Capacitor when switched on.

It,The 1900 Flash, does not load the capacitor when the switch is switched ON. The batterys are placed in properly and new.Also, there is no burned out components or signs of burnt PC Board, So something is not connecting, as in an open circuit.

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  • 2 Answers

My solution is to stop being stupid and buy a Nikon Flash, instead of trying to save a few bucks.

Posted on Feb 11, 2014

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: How to open case to perform tests

Remove the metal circle oposite to dial (it's glued). Under the circle you will find a metal clip connecting halfs of the flash - pull it out. Flash is ready to open.

Posted on Mar 24, 2007

  • 216 Answers

SOURCE: Charging problems

Try to check that capacitor by parallel it with a good capacitor.
Any uf capacitor that is close will do. Just make sure you have a 300v or more cap.

atdlee@netzero.com

Posted on Feb 26, 2008

  • 65 Answers

SOURCE: Vivitar flash won't charge the capacitor.

Finally try with 4 fresh Alkaline by DURACELL.
It will turn green.
If not the capacitor needs to be replaced

Posted on Mar 04, 2010

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Vivitar 283. I have 2 an both worked years ago. I stored them in a dry place, no batteries in them. Now I can't get them to work. I did take them one at a time, put in fresh batteries, and supposedly...


If you don't use the flash for a very long time the flash capacitor can degrade and need reforming or even develop a short. In the cases the capacitors develops a short either in storage or on first "forming" charge up, after long storage, there is nothing you can do except replace the capacitor and the cost of doing that is prohibitive, even if the spare were available. The device that works partially after using the external high voltage power supply, sounds like the capacitor might be ok, except the low output may mean it is arcing internally and preventing the capacitor charging fully. If this happens you can usually hear the arcing as the capacitor arcs internally.

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Quite likely the spin motor is a capacitor start type motor and has a capacitor to start it (by placing a winding slightly out of phase with the rest of the motor in turn encouraging the movement of the motor). When it reaches about 200 RPM the capacitor is disconnected and runs without it.
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This is an indication that you have a problem on the power supply section or on the load because of the following reasons :


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2. Over Current Protection - excessive load or faulty power supply cycling will

trigger the over current protection circuit.


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1 Answer

Motor runs for about 10 seconds then trips breaker without any load on it


The start capacitor for the motor is bad or the internal switch isn't shutting off the start capacitor. The start capacitor usually is mounted to the side of the motor in a sheet metal case that has 2 screws. The metal case is usually contoured and likes like a long wart on the side of the motor. Oh, DISCONNECT YOUR MOTOR FROM ALL ELECTRICITY BEFORE DOING ANY OF THIS! I would recommend removing the motor entirely from the saw.

To Check the start capacitor...
Open the metal case on the side of the motor to expose the capacitor. Be carefull here, as you could get a shock! Use a screwdriver with a plastic handle, and while holding the platic handle only, touch the 2 leads of the capacitor together for about 5-10 seconds. This will drain the capacitor of any residual charge.

Disconnect the wires to the capacitor. Connect a multi-meter or resistance/ohm meter to the two leads. If the resistance is 0, then slowly starts to climb (you can reset to 0 using the screwdriver across the leads again) - then the start capacitor is good. If the resistance is infinity or very large, then the capacitor is bad.

I'm betting that your capacitor is good (the motor would have a hard time trying spin if capacitor was bad), then it's the internal switch that shuts off the start capacitor. In my experience, these switches are mechanical and the are centrifical switches - it's like 2 little weights at the end of an arm attached to the motor shaft. The faster the motor spins, the further the weights swing away from the shaft.

I've found that these switches get dirty/corroded or filled with sawdust (when the motor isn't very well sealed), or the lubricating grease dries out. If you're mechanically inclined, I say take the motor apart and clean the switches and re-lubricate them. Adjust as necessary. But you can totally mess them up or have parts from your motor shoot across the shop (some are spring loaded).

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It sounds like a motor problem. It puts the motor under maximum load, when dryer is full and just trying to begin to spin.
There are 2 different types of motors, those with capacitor start and those with inbuilt centrifugal switch.
What is your make and model of dryer please? Or if you take off the back panel, can you see a small plastic cylinder, about 2 inches long, with 2 wires to it? Will be mounted close to the motor, but seperate from it.
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1 Answer

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You may have to install new batteries, a few times. The Capacitor will **** the life out of the batteries as it builds up its charge. I have a Hasselblad D-Flash 40 this happened to. Bought as Mint. Not used in over 1 year. When I received it, I was absolutely pissed that I bought more ebay junk. But, I persisted. I think I went through 30 batteries, before the Capacitor rejuvenated itself. Try. Best of luck.

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