Question about GE JKP45 Electric Double Oven

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Lower oven will not heat

Elements both have continuity. Could the temperature sensor be bad?

Posted by Anonymous on

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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catriver
  • 878 Answers

SOURCE: Electric Oven doen't heat

cdkd, there should be a TC0, on the back of the oven. Thermal cut out. You want to check to see if it is open. You will have to pull the oven out enough that you can remove the back panel cover and check it. The lower and upper oven should have one. It's a very cheap part to replace. If this TCO fails, no heat. Check this first before buying a new board. Catriver..post back.

Posted on Dec 27, 2006

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Powerman
  • 68 Answers

SOURCE: GE JTP56 Double Oven

Hello there,

This may be related to the F7 problem even if you are not getting an error message. Go to my web site at the following link:

 

http://fp1.centurytel.net/Powerman/Dreaded%20F7%20Problem.pdf

 

Please let me know if this works for you. I have sent my fix to over 1300 folks.

Good Luck,

Powerman

Posted on Oct 21, 2007

scottowa
  • 87 Answers

SOURCE: Elements in convection oven won't heat

DO you have a model number for that. I'm almost sure it's a thermal fuse in the back of the oven. Usually they go out during or after cleaning but that would shut down both elements. If you have the model (usually by the inside door look all over and up in the cavity) Then if you go to this link

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action?intcmp=xsite_Sears

It will show you a breakdown of the oven and where it is. If you give me the model I'll show you what I'm talking about. Good luck.

P.S. if it the fuse it's a cheap fix, little hard to get in back of the oven but cheap!

Posted on Mar 04, 2009

  • 3230 Answers

SOURCE: GE JTP 1580W288 Set oven to Bake, switches to broil at bake temp

The F2 Error code means the oven has detected an excess temperature condition. Most often this is due to a bad temperature sensor - the sensor costs about $75 from an online repair site. 
How to remove and replace the temperature sensor. In most GE ovens, when you open the door, you'll see the rod-shaped temperature sensor sticking out of the back wall at the upper left. It's about six inches long and a bit more than 1/8" in diameter, held in place with two screws. 

Turn off the circuit breaker (built-in ovens) or unplug the range before attempting the replacement. 

The replacement sensor will come with instructions, but basically it's a matter of removing the sensor, pulling out the wires to where they are connected and disconnecting them. You may have to snip. The replacement sensor will come with high-temp wire nuts to hold the new connection. Polarity doesn't matter; it's a straight resistance thermocouple. Hook it up, be sure you poke the connections back far enough so that they're on the other side of the thermal insulation and not resting against the back of the oven. 

If you continue getting the F2 error after replacing the sensor, then the problem is likely in the control module - this is the circuit board behind the keypad and clock. 

You'll need to remove the decorative bezel to get behind the control panel. Remove screws and set off parts in order - it's not complicated. Once the bezel is off there are two more screws that hold the panel in place. Then you can lift the panel up about a half inch and pivot it forward toward you. You'll see a bunch of wires going to a circuit board. 

On the panel you will notice some black plastic boxes that say "Potter & Brumfield" on them. These are relays. Check the relays - slide the black plastic cover straight up to expose the coil and the contacts. The coil, when energized, closes the contacts - look at all the relays. You can manually close the contacts with your finger (be gentle). If the contacts of one of them are stuck, they might be welded together. You can fix the problem by prying apart the welded contacts gently with a knife blade. Take some time to gently polish the relay contacts with a folded bit of fine grain sandpaper - this will get some more life out of them. Be gentle and careful - the relays aren't complicated but if you bend the contact or rip it out, you'll have to replace the controller, which will set you back a couple hundred dollars. If you unstick and burnish the relays, they will probably eventually weld together again as the rough spot will spark, but when you burnish them with sandpaper they should be good for some more life before they need to be replaced. 

If the problem isn't the temp sensor or welded relay contacts then the problem is obviously somewhere else, but temp sensor and relay contacts will account for the lion's share of F2 errors. 

Once again, be safe, be careful, be gentle. Ovens are not very complicated and they're tough, but always exercise care. Always disconnect electricity before messing with them.
good luck,

Posted on Jun 28, 2009

  • 523 Answers

SOURCE: GE Wall Oven won't hold temperature and sometimes shuts off

t stat

Posted on May 27, 2010

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I have GE model#JKP45WOP2WG double oven wall unit. Lower oven isn't heating up properly. Bottom of lower oven doesn't seem as hot as the top of the oven... replaced oven sensor, not


Most double wall ovens are technically two separate oven boxes. The lower oven box has its bake, boil elements, high limit thermostat and ofcourse its own oven sensor. If the lower oven box boil is working good and less heat on bake feature may suggest that the bake element is burned out and only getting preheated with boil element. Just a suggestion here

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It is possible that there is a bad relay in the control board. This will shut off the power to your burner elements. The control board has a relay for the bake and broil element and one for the common for both. This is usually the one that goes bad. Unfortunately the board will need to be replaced or repaired. The control board will show temperature rise from the sensor but generally it doesn't show the cool down temp. This again is normal from my experience.

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Whirlpool wgp30801


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Hi.

Problem is usually either temperature probe or heating element.

Grab a multimeter and set it on impedance (Ohms).
Remove first temperature probe and then heating element.
If either probe or element is reading open (ohms infinity), then replace the part.

If both probe and elements are not open, then the problem is either wiring or oven electronic control. The most common fault resulting in no heat is the temperature sensor located inside the oven cavity.

Regards.

Ginko

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if lower element tests open with continuity meter then it for sure is bad. i would also check the wire ends that connect to the element and/or the control board, they could have loosened allowing a bad connection and low voltage to elementor burnt off.. most ovens do not use the broil element at all during the bake cycle, only during the broil cycle.. some however do utilize the broil element during baking, but at a lower wattage or something..
best of luck,
ttfn

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Hi, Unplug the oven and remove the element to test it. Check the element and see if there is continuity. If the element is open, replace it. It can be bad even tho it doesn't appear bad.

I hope this helps you.

Vic

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