Question about Bell & Howell Photography
Posted by Anonymous on
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: slides advance continusly
I can solve this i think but am pretty busy right now. It's also cheap
and usually easy. If you can carefully open the shell (body) , with it
unplugged of course,note where all the thin wires belong for when you
put it together again. Assuming you have the projector open and on its
back, look near the top, centre roughly. You'll see a white, thick gear
that gets driven by a long worm gear/pulley that is driven by the motor
belt. Above the thick gear is a silver-grey metal catch or "trigger"
and resting on - or near it- will be a (usually) copper coloured thin
in normal operation this finger catches on the grey metal trigger which flips into position and catches the clutch built into that thick gear. When you activate the slide advance, the solenoid, for a moment, pulls the finger off the trigger which moves the triger which allows the clutch to engage and turn the thick gear, driving the mechanism. What's happening is that over time the light grease has thickened and the trigger is not engaging properly.
In some cases, all you need to do is just activate that slide advance a couple of dozen times, or let it keep advancing a few dozen times. You might try this before takign it apart. It selldom is enough but might be. usually though you'll need to look carefully to the pivot point of that grey metal trigger. If you have any contact cleaner for electronics (degreaser) get a little on and behind the rivent that holds that trigger and let's it pivot. With your finger, getnly rock the trigger back and forth. Repeat a few times if necessary as that cleaner evaporates quickly. If you don't have such cleaner, you can use a bit of WD-40 or alcohol can sometimes do the trick. Rubbing, not whiskey! Whatever you use to clean out the old, dried lubricant there, be careful not to let it get into other areas of the mechanism! Especially the WD 40 whihc has both grease cutter and oil. Oil in the wong places will give you bigger problems.
Eventually the trigger should move very easily and return to position quickly when you release it. Now you want to put a drop or two only on that pivot point, of the lightest oil you can find. Most easily accessed is light sewing machine oil.
You may decide to plug in the projector now -remove the lamp first. it is dnagerous at this point so be careful, or before you plug it in, put the shell cover back on. If you cover it hough, you can't see what's happening. In any case, run it, advance the slides via the remote preferably, a few times and unplug it.Hopefully it's stopped advancing continuously by now.
Take a look at the point where the "finger" engages the "trigger". You want to be careful not to bend the finger or things'll get out of whack.But IF you can (unplugged again!) spare just a tiny bit of grease from that thick gear, put just a bit on the trigger where the finger rests. If you can locate a clear coloured teflon added lubricant called Super-lube (also sold under at elast one other brand name I can't recall), that is the stuff Kodak used.
Reassemble carefully and try 'er out. If you run into any problems, give me a shout at firstname.lastname@example.org . Put Kodak in the heaidng so you don't get spammed out.
Posted on Feb 19, 2009
Does the projector run in reverse?? If so, then what you are facing is a timing adjustment.
If it does not cycle in either direction, then there is a high probability that the solenoid "link" is broken. The "link" connects the cycle solenoid plunger to the slide change mechanism.
The good news: There are still parts available (www.micro-tools.com). The less-than-good-news: both fixes are difficult and best handled by a factory-trained repair dealer.
Posted on Dec 30, 2010
By the sounds of your description, your projector needs an adjustment to the slide change mechanism. This is best done by a factory-trained dealer, who has the service manual. Sorry I can't be of more help. Happy New Year!
Posted on Dec 30, 2010
The problem is continuous cycle (like you don't know that already...). It indicates that an adjustment to the cycle contact is necessary. To open the projector, first unplug it and remove the lamp module from the rear of the projector. Turn the projector upside down. Remove the 6 - T15 TORX screws from the bottom (5 around the perimeter and one in the channel next to the cord wrap). CAREFULLY pull the bottom off (the power wires connect the bottom cover & top together!!). Once you have it open, leave the projector upside down, put on your safety glasses & plug the projector into the wall. At the center of the projector you should see a hub rotating about every second or so. Above it you should see a "J"-shaped wire. See the attached illustration.
You will have to, in repeated steps, unplug the projector, bend the "J"-shaped wire GENTLY & SLIGHTLY, plug the projector back in and cycle it a few times. Check for the position of the "J"-shaped wire to the pad, and GENTLY repeat until you achieve the position shown in the illustration.
Good Luck !!
Posted on Dec 30, 2010
SOURCE: Slides won't advance or reverse
The AF-2 is suffering from old age! The problem you are experiencing is "continuous cycle", and is caused by the cycle contact either being bent or worn to the point it can't stop the cycle camstack at the end of a slide change. If you are familiar with projector repair, I can give you specific instructions. Otherwise, I suggest you locate an authorized repair dealer. Even though the projector is old, all the necessary parts are available from: www.micro-tools.com
Good Luck !! Jim
Posted on Dec 26, 2011
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