Question about GE Dryers

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The power button won't work on my GE GFDN240EL1WW dryer. A repair person came to my house and took off the control panel (it took him 10 minutes to try to get the control panel off, and he was pushing his hands down ******* top of the dryer many times to try to get it off). He said that the cheap plastic tab that is attached to the button had broken off. He then proceeded to break the tab on the start/pause button just by touching it (or so he said). He told me I would have to pay $250- to replace the control panel (ASM WW), and he would have to order the part. It will cost me $400- in all to get the repair done ($79- for his time for each of 2 visits). We paid only $600- for the dryer at Manny's TV and appliance less than 2 years ago. It hardly seems worth $400 to fix the cheap plastic control panel. Is there any cheaper solution to this problem that you know of?

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6ya6ya
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SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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FRANKSFIXIT
  • 72 Answers

SOURCE: Squeeking noise

Here's a possible troubleshooting fix I just sent to someone else that quite possibly has the same problem you have there now.

Hope it helps you out as well, as it is a bit long, but I'll post the whole reply I sent them and you can use whatever parts of it that will work for you.

Hi,

My name is Frank...

Regarding your possibly broken dryer.

I'm hoping that this info below helps you out even though I know I won't be able to repair/fix your dryer myself personally. Reason why - I'll explain further down.

I've repaired a few gas dryers & washing machines as well in my time. I can honestly say that I'm as close to being an expert as they come - esp when it comes to making repairs on existing dryer parts that can no longer be purchased as they are either obsolete, or way over-priced.

This is what I do for a semi-retired hobby, and sideline self-employed FIX-IT business. Named appropriately - FRANK'S FIX-IT SHOP. It's only an online fix it at present. Keeps me busy instead of being bored to death.

Electric clothes dryers are typically made the same as gas dryers - as to the mechanical drum part. Only thing different in a gas unit is the 110VAC electrical igniter or element, and the gas delivery system that provides the drying heat to the dryer itself.

All else is basically the same...

In an electric clothes dryer all the power comes from the 220VAC source as to the heating element, etc. The mechanical parts are typically the same as that of a gas dryer.

Having said this - the problem with your dryer can only have one of possibly 2 things wrong with it - seeings it's no doubt 220VAC totally electric, unless you actually have gas where you are there, which is rare in Florida these days!

If after you start the drying cycle you quickly open the dryer door, and you notice the drum is actually rotating - until there is the loss of electric power via a safety door switch that kills electric power to the drum motor activity - then there is NOT a problem with a broken drum belt.

If your dryer is older then say 10-15 years, and you really use it alot - then maybe there's a possibility of a broken drum belt (cost is around $10-15 for a new belt part depending on model - usually - and that does not include labor to install it).

Usually you'll hear the motor whining, but no drum 'noise' or movement. Dead giveaway as to a broken belt.

I had replaced 2 belts and 1 IDLER wheel on my own 30+ year old gas Kenmore dryer before selling it, and then picked up a more recent newer model GE washer & gas dryer that someone was just giving away for free. My 30+ year old Kenmore washer had just died on me at the same time is why I upgraded. Can't pass up a great freebie deal like that everyday! Never had to fix anything on my Kenmore washer during the time I owned it - it was GREAT!! I miss it dearly now.....

Though they were both newer GE models I really don't care for GE anything, as I think they are poorly built, as well as is their refrigerator brands as well.

Don't buy GE anything if you don't have to!! You heard it here from me and I know. My GE washer already broke a belt not even being 8-9 years old, and it was hell to replace, and never worked right afterwords as for the water pump part. Very POOR design! Oh well...

The gas dryer works fine, but the lint collector is not anywhere as good as my old Kenmore was. Poor design in my opinion.

I'm looking for another Kenmore or Whirlpool (set) model now, as they are the best. Kenmores are made by Whirlpool btw, just in case you didn't know that. The best in the business!

As to your other possible noise scenario -

The only other weird noise scenario you'll experience if it's a Kenmore dryer is when the drum "spring loaded track IDLER wheel" goes bad. This drum IDLER wheel is located under the drum itself at the back part of the drum and rides in a groove in the drum itself. It also helps to stabilize and counter-balance the drive belt-loaded turning drum that rides on this drum IDLER wheel as it turns. If your dryer does have the rear drum IDLER wheel system, then it just depends on the make and model. Kenmores & Whirlpools are designed this way. Very good design I might add!!

Some, or all GE dryer models may have a rear drum centering bearing assy instead - and in addition to - a front (Support, 3 glide front drum bearing part# 2359 & a Drum front slide bearing part# 2305 times 3 needed). If this/these front support/slide bearing part(s) goes bad usually the "felt duct" will need to be replaced as well. It not only helps to seal and quiet the drum that runs on the Support part, but it also helps to keep clothes from getting in-between the Support C part and helps prevent clothes from getting damaged. If those (3) friction sliders wear out or fall out, and take out or damage the "felt duct" as well, then the noise will be horrendously LOUD.

The front part of the GE drum models usually rides on a separate front panel support assy which can be made of a plastic C shaped device with anti-friction pad strips to help in frictionless rotation of the drum. A cheap but pretty effective design that does away with a front IDLER wheel, or pair of IDLER wheels as it were at the front of the dryer's frame which houses the door assy as well.

Though my Kenmore replacement drum IDLER wheel only cost me around $17 many years ago I see they now are anywhere in the $30+ range. Ouch! If it's the GE rear bearing assy that has gone bad - another Ouch as that part runs around $50+. Just depends on where you are and parts availability.

Most Kenmore/Whirlpool model dryers with the rear spring loaded drum IDLER wheel design do not have a ball bearing design, but rather have a typical cheaper brass bushing design instead, and when the grease lubricant dries out or they become dirty from picking up dirt in the air such as lint from the drum, etc then they begin to SQUEAL or WHINE very loudly.

The longer this goes on like this the hotter the drum IDLER track wheel gets until it melts the "typically" molded plastic housing, and then it really makes a lot of noise, and could actually lend to the drum belt breaking - as due from the added friction & stress from the binding wheel. It can also damage the front "felt duct" material as well. I had to repair mine as best I could as they had n factory replacement part that I knew off.

The only other mechanical parts that could possibly make any squealing type noise would be the electric belt drive motor or the heat blower motor being gas or electric. If the heat blower motor uses a cheaper brass sleeve shaft bushing bearing that would be rare, but could be a noise source as well. The belt drive motor rarely rarely would ever go bad!!

I hope this info helps to narrow down your problem if you are not able to at least open the top up to inspect the dryer yourself. Always unplug the 110VAC power before opening any cover or panel part up though!

That will not only prevent any electrical shock hazard, but will also keep the gas from turning on by mistake - as by solenoid design - if your dryer is gas.

I suspect this is what's wrong with your dryer.

Again - I hope the info helps you out...

Best regards,

Frank

Posted on Mar 05, 2008

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: touch screen

As a thought you may want to re-initiate the electronics. Don't know if this can help but it might:

It's called "Field Service Mode"
1. Press the POWER key to turn the dryer on.
2. Press HELP. The main help screen is displayed.
3. Press and hold MY CYCLES and BACK simultaneously for 3 seconds. Press EXIT to return to the HOME screen.
This takes you through a processes of initializing the touch screen. I have a different problem on my Harmony dryer but I've used this to check diagnositcs.

Regards,

Robert...

Posted on Apr 07, 2008

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Whirlpool Duet Electric Dryer Model Gew9200

Where is the thrermal fuse located?

Posted on Aug 03, 2008

  • 351 Answers

SOURCE: asko t761 dryer drum will not start rotating and belt is not broken

check the motor cap or belt on the pulley correctly

Posted on Aug 27, 2008

huuum
  • 750 Answers

SOURCE: Kenmore Elite gas dryer

Hello.
vegetarianGA
You said,

When I purchased my house 2 years ago, the sellers left the washer and dryer for me. They informed me of a problem with the dryer's start button not wanting to stay pressed in. They said their solutions was to use something to keep it pressed in and so I started using shipping tape for this purpose. Last night it finally stopped working - something behind the button is obviously broken (the switch). While looking for a replacement switch and an on-line service manual, I came across this site. I did order the part from Sears today and will attempt to repair the problem myself. If I cannot, I will buy a new dryer before I pay a tech $60+ to repair a 6 year-old dryer.
I did not have the model number when I called Sears but did have another number off the back of the dryer which was for the "panel control" and the number is 3979018. The sales rep did some cross-referencing and said I own model #11072932100. I was wondering if you can direct me to an on-line service manual so I will know how to replace the switch when it arrives.

Here our sponsor's site to fine what you asked me for, a service manual!
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You sound like you are right on target !
Bless You, Huuum
Please leave me a good rating before you sign off.

Thank You




Posted on Sep 18, 2008

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1 Answer

Ge front load error codes t01


make this test: God bless you

- 45 -
Service Test Mode
The dryer control has a service test mode that can be utilized by the service technician in order to test
critical components and to access error codes. This test mode will help the service technician to quickly
identify failed or improperly operating dryer components.

Test Mode Description
t01 Model ID Verifi
es (or sets on new board) the proper model id.
t02 Error Codes Lists up to 10 control-detected problems.
t03 Software ID
Displays the software version number and the non-
volatile memory version number.
t04 Program Non-volatile Memory Test Control computes and compares the 16-bit CRC of
the non-volatile memory with the pre-computed
version stored in the non-volatile memory.
t05 User Interface Control turns on all LEDs and the 7-segment display.
t06 Keys Continuity Verifi
es that all displays and buttons work.
t07 Outlet Thermistor Displays outlet thermistor temperature.
t08 Inlet Thermistor Displays inlet thermistor temperature.
t09 Moisture Sensor Displays voltage read from the moisture sensor.
t10 Exhaust Detection Verifi
es status of the exhaust system.
To enter the test mode: To exit the test mode:
Disconnect the power for 30 seconds.
Reconnect power and within 30 seconds of
reconnecting power:
Press signal button.
Press delay start button.
Press signal button.
Press delay start button. (Displays t01)
1.
2.
a.
b.
c.
d.
Press the power button during the test selection
mode.
Note:
A dryer left in the test mode will exit the test
mode after a period of 30 minutes

Oct 01, 2013 | GE Dryers

3 Answers

Power button broke gfdn240el1ww


There are two main pieces to the front panel for the GFDN240EL1WW dryer-- the plastic panel and the circuit board. The actual replacement part is: Control Panel WE19M1687. The panel can be purchased for from places like partselect.com or repairclinic.com or Amazon or even EBay, etc. for $100-$200+.

The power button is just a piece of plastic mounted to another piece of plastic; it is not electronic. When pushed, it presses against the circuit board, which then turns the unit on/off. When the power button breaks, it typically means the little plastic button has broken off from the plastic panel. Most likely, the problem is the mount point for the button and the button is actually re-usable.

A cheaper quick-fix is to:
  • Remove top screw from back of the front panel
  • Remove main front knob from the panel
  • Remove screw from behind the front knob
  • Grab both sides of the front panel and push/pull up to remove the panel
  • Disconnect the block connector (power) from the circuit board after removing the panel
  • Locate the power button and mounting position
  • Inspect to see if it looks like you can glue the button back into place
  • Buy a small tube of loctite Stik'n Seal Ultra Universal Adhesive
  • Put some Stik'n Seal on the button mounting point for the power button (be generous)
  • Press the button onto the mounting point and hold for a few minutes
  • Add more Stik'n Seal around the edges of the mounting point and the button mount after you have held the button in place long enough so that it sticks
  • Let the whole thing dry for several hours (instructions on the adhesive say 24hrs
  • If you are worried about the button staying seated while the adhesive sets, you can always try tape it into place
  • When dry, replace the front panel by reversing the steps above used to remove the panel: connect the power block, slide the panel back into place, replace the front screw and knob, replace the top screw in the back of the panel
dfeb8167-2645-4694-a2f1-9e6ace623791.gif

Jan 23, 2013 | GE DBVH512GFWW Dryer

2 Answers

Dryer willnot heat


heating eliment is most likely burned out. Better off getting new dryer. But if that is not an option then call a repair person that can replace the heating element.

Nov 22, 2009 | Maytag Neptune MDE5500AY Electric Dryer

1 Answer

Lightning strike power surge partially disabled dryer.(Whirlpool)


If it took a lightning strike something in the heating coil is shorting to ground tripping the breaker. DO NOT Keep trying it, you could cause more damage or even burn your house down.

Sep 29, 2009 | GE Profile Harmony DPGT750EC Electric...

1 Answer

F1 error/touch panel not working on GE Monogram Dual Oven


Usually, the F1 means that either the touch pad or the oven control (also called clock or ERC) is defective and needs to be replaced. If this fault code cannot be canceled, replace the oven control (also called clock or ERC), touch pad, or both.

I recommend a service call for this repair.

Jun 02, 2009 | GE Monogram ZET3058SHSS Stainless Steel...

1 Answer

Dryer won't start


I had the same exact PROBLEM. This was the solution. Find jkenned1 solution reference problems with the buttons. Follow the steps that he recommends however the following is different:

1. You will have to completely disconnect the front control panel from the rest of the dryer. You will have to detach the two bundles of wires from the "brain board". One bundle is connected to the board by a wide connector and the other is connected by a thinner connector. Both connectors are next to each other on the "brain board". Unclip these from the board. If you are computer savy, they connect the same way you connect your hardware to a mother board, you have to depress a tab on the connector and wiggle it free.

2. Once you have the front control panel completely separate from the rest of the dryer, you will have to remove the boards from the control panel housing. This is done by first removing the metal housing which connects the whole control panel to the dryer. I believe there are six screws (I used a socket driver).

3. Once the metal panel is removed, you will see two boards. Remove both boards by unscrewing them from the front control panel housing. They are screwed in by security screws so you may have to go to the hardware store to get the proper screw driver tip. (take the boards with you to show the hardware employee if you have to).

4. Once you remove the boards, you will see mineral stains or deposits (mine were white like calcium) on the boards, especially where the solder connections are. Take a tooth brush and some isopropyl alcohol and clean the mineral deposits off (I used a braun oral B electric tooth brush).

5. Reassemble and you should be back in business.

This would have cost me $464.00 to repair through SEARS. Their own repair person didn't know how to fix the problem other than replace the entire control panel. I am currently researching a way to waterproof the boards. Don't forget to unplug the dryer while you work on this.

This is very simple to do just take your time and be careful. It took me a total of 30 minutes start to finish.

Good Luck.

Jul 14, 2008 | Kenmore Elite HE4 Electric Dryer

2 Answers

Control panel locked light is on


ck for a button with hold to lock under it hold button 3-5 sec

Jul 02, 2008 | Whirlpool GEW9250 Electric Dryer

2 Answers

GE DPGT750GC Gas Dryer Problem


Using the
Troubleshooter
To locate Troubleshooting Tips for common dryer
problems:
1
Press the HELP button.
2 On the Touch Screen, select TROUBLE
SHOOTER
.
3 On the Touch Screen, select the problem
description from the list. You can use the arrows
at the right of the screen to scroll up and down
through the list of additional problems.
4 On the Touch Screen, select a possible cause
for the problem and follow the on-screen
instructions to find a solution.


Pressing the HELP button then selecting HOME
SCREEN HELP
allows you to find additional
information on features found on the Home
Screen. Touch any pad on the Touch Screen for
an explanation of that feature. To exit the feature,
press the BACK button.

DID YOU ATTACH THE SERIAL CABLE?
Attach the serial cable for washer and dryer
connection to the serial port on the back of
the dryer.
Attach the other end of the cable to the
washer before pushing the washer into its
final position.

Problem Possible Cause What To Do
Dryer won’t operate Control panel is asleep • This is normal. Press POWER, the
touch screen or any button to activate
the control panel.
Dryer is unplugged • Make sure cord is plugged securely into
a working outlet.
Controls are not set properly • Make sure the cycle was set correctly,
close the lid and press START.
Fuse is blown/circuit breaker • Check house circuit breakers/fuses.
is tripped Replace fuses or reset breaker.
NOTE: Electric dryers use two fuses
or breakers.
Electronics need to be reset • Unplug dryer, wait 2 minutes, plug
back in and press POWER.
START was not pressed after • Press START.
a cycle was set
Door was opened during • Close the door and reset cycle, to the
the dry cycle beginning if necessary. Press START.
Dryer is too cold • If the dryer has been exposed to
temperatures below freezing for an
extended period of time, allow it to
warm up before pressing POWER.
Otherwise, the display will not come on.
Hope some of this helps. here is a link to the manual:
http://products.geappliances.com/ProdContent/Dispatcher?REQUEST=SKUOBJECTS&DOCUMENT=Use%20and%20Care%20Manual&SKU=DPGT750GCPL

Nov 29, 2007 | GE DPGT750GC Gas Dryer

9 Answers

Dryer not working


Front Panel lights not working? Dryer inside light does work? I fixed this twice already on my dryer. Please read this whole explanation I live in New Orleans where the humidity is very high. I have a laundry room where my Washer and Dryer reside. Kenmore HE4T. I noticed that when I shut the laundry room door, my central A/C pulls hot air from outside the house via the dryer exhaust duct. This causes moisture to build on the inside of the dryer and especially the front control panel. Did you ever see moisture on your dryer?s door even when there were no clothes in it? The moisture collects on the Silicon board that controls the dyers function and basically causes a short. This is what I do to fix it. You will need a ¼ nut driver or socket. 1. Confirm that you have power to the dryer <- is the inside dryer light on when you open the door. YES- keep reading.. NO ? find the circuit breaker and reset it. 2. UNPUG THE DRYER! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! 3. Find the 3 screws in the back of the dryer that hold the dryer lid on. Unscrew them and slid the lid back and lift off. Is there moisture on the inside of the lid? 4. Find the 2 screws that hold down the front control panel. They should be silver and will be on top. Do not remove the inside gold screws. 5. Find the 3 screws that hold down the power control panel on the top left side of the dryer. Probably has a high voltage warning sticker on it. 6. Lift the power control panel (sheet metal) part and move it to the right so it lays on the dyers drum. There are some wires attached to it and unless you are a very handy person, I wouldn?t remove them. 7. Lift the front control panel straight up until it comes out of the dryer. There should be some wires that attach this piece to the power control panel. If you are handy, you can remove these 2 clip-on wires from the power control panel by squeezing the black connector locking clip and releasing it from the panel. 8. If you flip the control panel around you may notice moisture on the green silicon chips. Get a hairdryer and take your time to dry them. 9. Dry all components of the dryer with a hairdryer. 10. Put everything back together except for the lid and all the screws. Remember that the front control panel slides down first and then the power control panel sits on top second. Plug the dryer in and see if you get lights, but don?t start the dryer. Unplug the dryer and replace all the screws and the lid. The problem is that once the dryer gets wet from the moisture, it never dries enough for it to start working again. This is a bad design from Sears/Whirlpool. I learn my lesson that just because its more expensive doesn?t make it more better. I now keep my dryer and washer door open all the time even when there are no clothes in it. This lets the moisture escape into the house rather than collect in the dryer. I hope this helps at least one person. Thanks Jason Kennedy from New Orleans

Nov 19, 2006 | Kenmore Elite HE4 Electric Dryer

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