Question about Kenmore Dishwashers
You could have a leek in the trap under the bench, (the drain plug)
Check the trap is tight,
Check the drain pipe is connected to the sink correctly
Maybe the water is leaking through the bench (there might be a gap / hole in, or on, the side of the bench) some sika sealant could fix this.
Hope this helps, don,t forget to rate or add a comment
Posted on Feb 10, 2014
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Leaking dishwasher
Are you washing cereal bowls or mixing bowls on the bottom rack? If so, are you placing them in front? Sudden leaks that form huge puddles can often be attributed to improper loading of the dishwasher. Most dishwashers don't have a seal across the tub front. The door closes over it and does a pretty good job of deflecting water back inside the wash cavity. However, if you place bowls in the front on the bottom rack rack they can divert the water right over the tub lip and onto the floor. This is usually the culprit that causes most leaks in dishwashers. Now, if you don't think you have a loading problem, remove the kick panel on the bottom of the dishwasher and check the drain line and pump housing for leaks. Check the door gasket for tears or cracks. Lastly, feel inside the bottom of the door with your hand. You should be able to feel the door insulation. If it is wet, then the problem could be a leak around your soap or rinse-aid dispenser. Depending on the model, some dispensers are mounted to the door with a gasket behind it. Sometimes this gasket can form leaks. I hope this helps.
Posted on Jun 05, 2007
SOURCE: water leak
Mine also started leaking. Element also too hot. Mine has a 20 year warrenty on the tub (which I was NOT aware of) Repairman came today and the whole tub unit and element will be fixed for free! Look in your whirlpool instruction book to see if yours is warrentied. BTW, my dishwasher is only three years old.
Posted on May 03, 2008
HEATED DRY.Turns the drying heater on for fast drying.
ENERGY SAVER (no heat boost). Turns the drying heater off to save energy. Dishes will dry naturally over a longer period such as overnight. lf you need your dishes sooner, open the dishwasher door after the cycle is complete to reduce the natural drying time. Use of this option reduces the electrical energy used by this model approximately 7%. A rinse agent makes water flow off dishes quicker than usual. This lessens water spotting and makes drying faster, too.
Make sure inlet water temperature is correct.(SeePage6.)
Unload the bottom rack first.Water from dishes in the top rack may be spilling in to the
Check for improper loading.Dishes shouldn’t nest together. Avoid overloading. Check the rinse agent dispenser to see that it’s not empty.
Inlet temperature....Good Dish washing starts with hot water, To get dishes clean and dry,you will need hot water.To help you get
water of the proper temperature, your dish washer automatically heats the water in the wash cycle. For good washing and drying , the entering water must be at least 120°E To prevent dish damage,
inlet water should not exceed 150”F. How to test water temperature: Check the water temperature inside your dishwasher with a candy or meat thermometer. Let the dishwasher run through
one fill and pump out cycle, then let the dishwasher fill with water
the second time. When you hear the water stop filling, unlatch the door and slowly open it. Measure the temperature of the water in the bottom of the tub this way: Remove the silverware basket and
place a candy or meat thermometer in the water towards the middle of the tub. If the temperature is less than 120”F,you will not get good washing results. Higher water temperature is needed to dissolve grease and activate powder detergents. If the unit is a long way from the DW you may need to let the water run in the sink until hot before starting the DW....or if is a cold day and water has not been used in a while the pipes could be cold....also if you have just used the hot water ( washer, shower...etc) give it time to recover first before using DW....All of the above mentioned material is straight out of the Users guide...but you may have an element that is going out also...so check the temp of your water and open it during the drying cycle to see if it is hot or at least warm inside...if not your element may need to be replaced...
I hope this helps...have a great day & good luck...please rate my effort.... the Fang.
Posted on Mar 27, 2009
It sounds like you have an Air Gap...a separate device that is used to prevent back flow into the DW. Take off the top of the air gap and see if it is gunked up and or clean it with a shop vac...as well disconnect the line to the drain evac it as well... also there is a reservoir in the back that is attached to the drain pump...take the screws out...see that it is clean and free of debris...be careful as glass or other particles can be in there. Also have you had a new dispoal installed if so the drain plug may not have been removed. As i read more I am certain you have an air gap...make sure it is cleaned and free from obstruction....if this does not solve the problem...here are some other GE specifc things and a link to help......
1. Air gap / Drain hoses
If there is an air gap (located in the sink, near the faucet), check to see if it is clogged. Unscrew the top cap and see if there is anything blocking inside. Note: If there is no air gap installed, the dishwasher might not drain properly.
If the drain hose is clogged, the dishwasher would not drain. If there is an air gap installed, it is very common that a hose going from the air gap into the garbage disposer is clogged. Remove and clean the hose. Make sure to reattach the hose before starting the dishwasher.
Note: If you recently had a garbage disposer installed, it is common to overlook removing the drain plug.
2. Broken belt
Some dishwasher models use a belt to drive the pump. Replace the belt if found broken.
Note: Sometimes the belt would just come off the pump. Even though it might not be broken, it is recommended that you replace the belt, because it is probably too stretched out.
Some models have two impellers inside the pump - one, wash impeller, takes care of the wash cycles, the other, drain impeller, drains the water out. If the drain impeller is broken (broken blades, shaft), the dishwasher would not drain. Replace any broken pump components.
4. Drain solenoid
Some models (for example most GE dishwashers) use a drain solenoid to drain water out. Sometimes the solenoid gets stuck, preventing the water from draining out. Try to free up the solenoid. If unsuccessful, you might have to replace the pump assembly.
If the motor is stuck, it is sometimes possible to free it up by manually spinning the motor.
Replace the motor if defective.
Replace if defective (note: uncommon problem).
Here is some GE specific info and a link.....
GE dishwashers will have a sump entrance screen ( #4 ) that should be removed and checked for any gookus, see 1 or 2 screws on the cover top, which is behind the lower spray arm. Almost all ( some newer GE dishwashers have a separate drain pump and motor - but for our purpose, we will talk about the most common GE dishwashers ) GE dishwashers have a drain solenoid ( #1 ) that can fail and stop the draining. If the solenoid cannot pull in the silver plunger, the drain port will not open to allow the motor and pump assembly to drain the water out. The solenoid can be ohmed with an ohm meter for continuity, or tested to see if it is receiving 110-120 volts AC. Many GE dishwashers have a self clean filter ( #3 ) inside at the back. The draining water must pass through a plunger in the self clean filter body. This can get clogged up, or the plunger may twist and distort and not allow the draining water to get past. The filter can be removed from the inside and the plunger will twist out of the self cleaning body for testing/checking. Next obstacle for the draining water in the back flush valve ( #2 ). This valve can twist or distort and block the water flow as well. The drain port will need to be accessed to check this flapper valve, the drain port will untwist from the self clean filter body. All hoses in-between the items mentioned above and the drain hose itself all the way to the house plumbing should be checked for restrictions.
Some extra filter, draining tips and pictures....
During the wash and rinse modes of the cycle, soiled water falls down the back of the tub and into the filter area. The water comes through the filter and back into the tub. During the wash and rinse periods all ( we hope! ) the water will pass through the filter. The soil will settle into the collection chamber and is held there. When the dishwasher goes into the pump out mode the water in the sump is pumped through the collection chamber. This closes the piston valve to the inside of the tub. The pump flushes the collection chamber of all the food soil and pumps it down the drain. A check valve is located in the drain line port. This valve allows the water to flow in the drain direction only and prevents the water from coming back into the tub. The drain line check valve must close in the back flow direction or the piston valve in the collection chamber may not reopen into the tub after the pump out is complete. Water should "fall" through the filter and go back into the tub....the heavier food particles go down into the chamber and are collected.
Here is a link for you to check out...I have all this info in my data base but since it is in PDF format it does not translate well to this format...
I hope this helps...it is always useful to include the Model #...more specific instructions can then be provided
Good Luck and good day.....please rate my effort...the Fang
Posted on Mar 28, 2009
I have this same dishwasher,and have had the same problems that have been described in this forum..
LG model#LDS5811.I bought it from Home Depot as a scratch and dent with no warranty available for about $400.00.
The problems I have seen on my own and have read online have been Intermittent leaks on the left side door,as well as both sides.And in some cases,even wiring and motor problems.
In my case,the water was coming from a leaking O-ring behind the evaporator housing in the door,as well as a small hole in the drain hose in the part of the hose on the left side where the hose loops up the side of the machine behind the panel before it comes out of the back.
You will need to take the left side panel off to undo the wire holding the hose in place as well as remove the bottom plate over the motor to gain access to remove the hose from the pump to get the hose off of the machine.Simply replace the hose.You can order online or buy a replacement at an Appliance Repair store as I did.
To repair the door leak,you will need to remove the lower outside panel that is under the control panel.Inside the door,you will need to turn the vent cover at the top of the door counter clock-wise one-forth turn and remove the entire evaporator unit as a whole.You will see a 1.5 inch O-ring.
I repaired this by getting G.E 100% silicone that you can purchase at a Home Repair store like Lowes or Home Depot and sealing around both sides as well as putting a good bead on top of the O-ring itself,and wipe off the excess after re-installing.
I performed these repairs over a month ago,and have had very good success.No leaks to be seen.I am a A\C,Refrigeration Tech by trade,and have done alot of Appliance repair/installation as a side trade from being a maintenance technician at some very large Grocery chains the last 20+ years.
I completely dissassembled this machine and have found it to be a decent product,but some shoddy materials and questionable assembly practices have created these problems,but good sound engineering.
I hope this helps someone with the problems with this machine so it wont be a total loss.
Posted on Mar 15, 2010
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