Question about Hamilton Beach BrewStation 47665

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Need to replace cord

Son removed all wire nuts instead of replacing them one at a time. Now I have 9 wires coming out of the bottom of the coffee maker and do not know how they go back together. There are 2 blue, 2 white, 2 red, 3 black - one smaller diameter than the other 2 and one gray wire. Where can I find a wiring schematic so I can connect the cord properly?

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Do you know anyone else who has the same coffee maker as you? borrow it from them and check your wiring from there.
you can get these coffee makers from amazon and wall mart.
I don't have one so cant take a photo for you.
Hopefully someone out there will see this, have one and help out.

Note: Electricity can cause serious injury even Death.
Isolate your power supply from the mains switchboard.
Switch off and Unplug your appliance from the wall socket before attempting any repairs.

if you remover the cover further and dismantle you should find clues for each wires location.
Hope this helps a bit
Good luck and take care

Posted on Feb 10, 2014

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4 Suggested Answers

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SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: leaks after coffe dispenses

I've found that the reason is usually because the "coffee tank filter screen" is sitting crooked in its placement and causes the valve to be propped open. But with boiling hot coffee in the tank, it's hard to fix. Sometimes we can tap it with a butter knife and it will sit back into place, and sometimes we've drained all the coffee into a pitcher, waited for the plastic parts to cool, repositioned the filter, and put the coffee back in and turned the pot back on. Depends on how far the valve is propped open and how quickly the coffee is coming out. Hope that helps! :)

Posted on Jun 11, 2008

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Leaking Coffeepot

it is the rubber seal it just pulls off push new one on

Posted on Jun 14, 2009

  • 5603 Answers

SOURCE: i have had my coffee

I have a different brand but mine has a thermos inside of the coffee pot itself. The seal at the top kept leaking. Solution was to put some food-safe grease on the seal AND most importantly was putting some on the plastic parts of the screw on the bottom that puts pressure on the bottom of the thermos. The threads gaul and one cannot tighten the screw to put enough pressure on the bottom of the thermos to get a good seal at the top.

Not sure if yours is this type, but if it is this might be a solution to try.

Posted on Mar 18, 2011

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Replace cord in Rowenta Iron


0) Unplug the iron.

1) Remove the (2 or more) screws holding the plastic bottom plate (that the iron stands up on).
The screws are likely to be #20 Torx "Security" screws -- for which you will need a special bit for your nut/screwdriver. A kit of various sizes of Torx security bits will cost you about $10.

2) Remove the plastic cord-holder assembly from the iron.
2a) If the cord-holder is held in place with screws (you are in luck!), simply unscrew them. If you see no screws, then it is being held in place by several (probably 4) plastic tabs that you must simultaneously release. This makes the job much more fiddly. Use a small/medium blade screwdriver to carefully bend and hold each of the plastic tabs out of the way of the latches. You'll need one screwdriver per tab/latch! Take care not to break the tabs...
2b) Carefully wiggle/pull/work the cord-holder assembly out of the iron taking care not to bend the pins of the integral plug (inside the iron) that are seated in the cord-holder socket. Basically, with the iron resting on its metal surface, pull/pry/wiggle the cord-holder straight upward until the cord-holder (socket) pulls free of the (3 or more) stiff wires that function as a "plug".

3) Note that there are 2 crimp-on connectors attaching the 2 wires of the cord to the rest of the wires in the iron. Take a photo of the wires and jot down notes of which wires are connected together. NOTE: One of the cord wires is "neutral" and is attached to the wider spade at the plug end of the cord. Typically the "neutral" wire is marked with a white stripe or ridge down length of the cord. Don't mix up the "neutral" wire and the "hot" wire when you re-connect them in a later step!

4) Cut off the crimp-on connectors and separate all the wires.

5) Remove the cord from the system of zig-zagging "strain-relief" notches that hold the cord securely in place. You may have to remove a small plastic clip first.

6) Cut off 6 inches of the cord. (Or supply a new cord, if the cord has been shortened too much in previous repairs.) This eliminates the broken section wire within the cord. You may use an ohm meter to verify that both wires have a low resistance again (less than 1 ohm).

7) Route the cord back into the "strain-relief" notches in the cord-holder. Don't forget the plastic clip (if there was one)...

8) Strip all wires, exposing about 3/8" of copper on each.

9) Referring to your notes and photo, re-connect all wires using proper-sized plastic wire-nuts for secure connections.

10) Re-attach the cord-holder to the iron body. Make sure you line up the stiff wire pins with the cord-holder socket. Push the cord-holder into place and secure it (via screws or snap-in-place plastic tabs).

11) Replace the plastic cover, taking care to position the wire-nuts and wires to allow it to drop into place without forcing it. Secure the cover with screws.

12) Plug in the iron and test it out!

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1 Answer

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There is no internal fuse (at least I've not seen or replaced any) on Bosch dishwashers. The most typical problems for Bosch are: 1) one of the power cord connections to the internal wiring is corroded and doesn't make a contact; or 2) the power button has failed.

The number one is so far the most common problem. To check: Turn off the power to the dishwasher by any means necessary. Remove the kick panel on the bottom. There should be a small metal box with power cord and 2 or 3 wires coming into it. Remove screw(s) holding the cover on that box. There should be 2 or 3 wires connected to the power cord wires by wire nuts. Any burnt insulation or wire nut will be the problem area. Cut burnt wires, remove 1/2" of insulation and clean of both connecting wires to bare copper. If you have an electrical contact grease - apply to copper. Install new wire nut.

Good luck,
Vlad with First Choice Appliance, Sacramento, CA

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1 Answer

The electric cord plastic jacket melted and burned through wire on one spot. Can the cord be replaced


I am currently attempting to do that myself. You need to separate the liner from the outside part. Using a pair of pliers, loosen the round nuts (found on the bottom) holding the unit together & separate. You'll find that the unit won't come completely apart because of the wiring. There is a heating band, held together by a spring, around the inner liner. Remove the spring to release the band. This should allow you to remove the inner liner & give you access to the wiring. At this point, you'll need to clip the appliance cord by the little wire nuts. The hardest part will be getting the cord out; there is a strain relief grommet that holds the cord in place and prevents it from being cut by the sheet metal where the cord goes through. I broke this strain relief on my crockpot and am currently looking for a replacement. Once I find a cord relief, I should be able to reconnect the wiring, the heating band and assemble the unit. Be careful not to cut yourself on the sheet metal!

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This procedure worked for replacing the cord on my Hoover U6425-900. At a minimum, you will need a number 2 Phillips screwdriver, wire cutter, and two electrical wire nuts and electrical tape. Remove the accessory tools from the storage compartment. Remove two screws, these are recessed. Remove the cover from the bag compartment, remove two screws located at top corners of bag compartment. You may have to open the side filter door but the accessory tool storage compartment should be free at this point and can be removed. You should see the power cord and related wiring. If you have a digital camera you could take a photo at this point in case you need a point of reference. Make note of the power cord strain relief routing and length of wire. Too much wire will make reattaching the storage compartment difficult and the routing prevents the cord from being pulled out.
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1 Answer

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1 Answer

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please rate service.

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  1. Remove rear retaining screws of RH front wheel splash shield for access to antenna lower retaining bolt.
  1. Remove lower retaining bolt.
  1. Remove radio antenna nut (18865) from top of motor tube and remove electric antenna through fender/splash shield access.
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Installation
  1. To install, reverse Removal procedure.
  1. Tighten top radio antenna nut to 6-8 Nm (54-70 lb-in).
  1. Tighten lower electric antenna retaining bolt to 5.8-7.8 Nm (51-69 lb-in).
  1. Check operation of electric antenna and radio chassis .

    Automatic Electric Antenna


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mast
Mast, Power NOTE: A power antenna mast which is bent or broken can be replaced without replacing the motor and tube assembly.
Removal
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  1. Loosen retaining nut inside tube using 14 mm (9/16 inch) socket, and slide nut part-way up mast.
  1. Raise antenna to run plastic drive wire at bottom of mast out of motor. Note direction of teeth on plastic drive wire.
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  1. Run motor down while pushing on plastic drive wire until about 305 mm (12 inch) of wire has been drawn into the tube. Stop motor and insert bottom of antenna mast into tube. Lower mast.
  1. Slide contact tube and radio antenna nut down antenna mast. Tighten nut to 0.45 Nm (4 lb-in).

  2. Raise and lower antenna several times to ensure proper operation.
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