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Re: side panel of the seat has come loose
Panels are held in place by plastic "pins" (to use your words) that are held in place by the shape of the part it is being pushed into.
Either the pin itself is broken, the part holding this plastic pin is broken, or the other piece being pushed into is broken or cracked such that it can't hold the pin in place.
Inspect both the side panel and the part it connects to. Replacement pins can be purchased from an automotive store or a salvage yard. If the receiving end is broken, you may be able to repair with glue or other type of bonding material.
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Pull the drawer out a little bit and look on the sides just behind the front panel. You'll see a little round plastic piece (about 1/2 or 5/8" diameter) with a plastic rib going through the center. That is the head of a plastic pin that holds the panel in place. Get a long-nosed pliers, grab that rib, and pull the pin straight out. Do the other side. Now pull the front panel down and tilt out the bottom a little. Don't let it drop, there is a ground wire that you have to detach before you can put that panel some place else. Putting the panel back on is more difficult, because the door wants to close as you're trying tp push that panel up and back in place. Stick something in the top of the drawer so it won't close. Sometimes it helps to push the glides on the bottom of the drawer back about and inch or two. You have to look underneath to see how to release the catch for the drawer glides.
I found this on an Odyssey forum. It is long, but that panel is not a short process. After you have fixed the wire, you might have to "rehome" the doors. Google this and you should find instructions.
I just finished replacing the passenger 3rd row seatbelt in my 2006 Odyssey, which required removal and replacement of the trim panel. Instructions were enclosed with the new seatbelt ordered from Honda, but I had to scan thru the whole document because the needed info was not in the section about 3rd row seatbelt replacement.
Trim panel removal is not terribly difficult, but is rather fussy and slow work. Basically the panels are held in place by little plastic pins that snap into holes in the underlying metal bodywork. In addition, the rear panel is held at the bottom by the sliding door threshold panel and the rear hatch threshold panel, and at the top by the pillar trim panels flanking the rear window. (These are called Pillars C and D, repectively).
You may as well start by unbolting the 2nd row seatbelt at the floor and on Pillar C. Down at the floor, pull back the rubbery cover and unscrew the bolt using a 14mm wrench. Up above, on the pillar, remove the plastic cover at the sealbelt shoulder height adjustment mechanism. This cover has hooks molded into either side, so gently use a screwdriver to pry them loose and pop off the cover, then unscrew the bolt with your 14mm wrench.
Next, remove the sliding door threshold panel by prying it up with a screwdriver or prybar and getting your fingers under it until you hear and feel the pins pop loose one by one. You will develop a feel for how much force to apply. Use your fingers as much as possible, because you risk marring the plastic edges with steel tools. The threshold panel is hooked into the other trim panels at either end, so work it to disengage.
Fold the rear seat down flat and remove the plastic cover over the seat pivot. Pry the forward side up first and then rotate it rearwards over the pivot, and then disengage and remove it fully.
At the rear hatch, unscrew the two cargo net knobs on the passenger side. The plastic knobs will probably come off like nuts, leaving a steel stud behind, or the stud may remain attached to the knob; either way is okay.
Pry loose and remove the little plate on the rear trim panel "window sill" where the seat belt enters. BTW, keep all these little loose parts together as you go.
On Pillar D (rearmost pillar) there is a small square cover that says something about air bags. Pry this loose at the top, as it is hinged at the bottom. You may need something thinner than a screwdriver (try a pocket knife). Once this is open, remove the Phillips head screw inside.
Pillar C (forward) also has a square "air bag" cover plate, but it works differently. Just pry it straight out, but not all the way out. Just let it dangle.
At this point all the major hindrances to removing the passenger side rear trim panel have been dealt with. Starting back at the rear hatch, pry the panel loose and pull it away from the wall, using fingers as much as possible. Listen for the plastic pins to pop loose as you go. There are two at the rear, four across the "window sill" and two toward the front. There is another pin in the center of the panel, but it will pop loose eventually as you pull the panel away from the wall.
NOTE: The lower trim panel and the pillar trim panels are hooked together, so you have to work those joints to separate them. NOTE: DO NOT TRY TO PULL THE PILLAR TRIM PANELS LOOSE AT THE TOP. First loosen them at the bottom, and then rotate and work them gently free of the headliner. Similarly, the main trim panel should be loosened at either end and along the top before rotating the panel in, sort of pivoting at its base. It is hooked under the rear hatch threshold, so you'll have to work it free by pushing down and rotating.
Long before this point, I was wondering if I could get at the seatbelt retractor spool behind the trim panel without completely removing the trim panel. However, there was a hard plastic a/c duct in the way, so I had to completely remove the trim panel to get at the duct. It turned out there wasn't much holding the duct in place and I was able to loosen it enough to get the old seat belt spool out and the new one bolted in.
Reinstall everything in reverse order. One tip I can offer concerns the little square plate on the Pillar C trim panel, the one I said to leave dangling. This gizmo is actually a long plastic stud. When I finally managed to pull the Pillar C trim panel loose from the main trim panel, this stud fell out. It is molded in tan plastic (my van has tan interior) but it had a separate black piece on the end. I thought I would never get this stud/plate back in place during reinstallation. Here's the trick: take the little black piece loose from the stud, and install it first by itself by pushing it into the hole, making sure the cross-shaped hole is aligned correctly to match the tan stud. The small black piece is analogous to a nut, and the tan stud is like a bolt. Put the "nut" in first, then poke the "bolt" in on top of it. Otherwise, the stud forces the "nut" to expand BEFORE IT CAN ENTER THE HOLE in the metal bodywork, and no amount of pushing or pounding will force it in.
Not sure that I can help you. You will most likely have to remove the seat bottom and maybe the seat back. The seat bottom can come out in 2 different ways. There maybe a bolt on each side of the seat bottom that holds the seat in, or on some you just have to push back hard then pull up on the front of the seat. Some are very hard to get out. the back of the seat be held in by bolts. Then you should be able to remove the 1/4 trim. The 1/4 trim is held on by ribbed push plugs that slip into the trim panel. you can either a panel removing tool or you can use a screw driver and long nose pliers. Be carful that you do not brake the plastic that holds the fastener, but if you do you can drill a small hole and put a sheet metal screw in it. If you do not find the plastic is making the noise might look for a peace of welding rod that the robot left in the car or if the windows go up and down that the bracket are loose or maybe broken. Good luck Jerry
You should be able to, if you can get the panel off. They are held by some screws in hidden places, and plastic push pins around the bottom and up the sides. If the bottom and sides are loose, the pins may have broken off. Parts stores will have new ones for sale. The pins are inserted into the back side of the panel, and are pushed into holes in the door frame to hold the panel secure. It is a really simple attachment process-the difficulty is getting the panel off to replace the pins.
You will have to fix your panel with epoxy or get one from salvage yard
I use crazy glue to put things in place Then slide plastic water tubing from home depot over the screw posts Then epoxy -do all that on the inner damaged side Takes a week to repair those type items or several
Where is it loose?
If you mean the plastic fasteners, like bullet clips, or rubber things that go around the bottom and up the sides, they fit into slots in the heavy cardboard backing of the panel. You slide the old one over a bit and free it and slide the new one in. If the bottom is floppy, loose, or the sides, you just need 2 or 3 inches clearance to put new fasteners in. If you can get a good look at one, you will see which way they slide or are pushed over to remove them. There's about 6 or 8 along the bottom, but 3 well placed ones would hold it tight. If you can't get to them, though, or if you mean another fastener (I think there's only rather small screws and those plastic pins.) then you will have to take the panel off. First remove all screws, some may be hidden behind a speaker screen or a little square trim piece. Then slip a blade or thin screwdriver under the panel to pry out the plastic pins. Start at the bottom and work up the sides. When all are popped out, the panel should be loose. Lift out and up to clear the panel out of the window channel`. Pull all the electrical connectors you need to to get the panel free. Well, good luck. Hope I've helped you some.
I have never taken the side panels off of a machine like yours but I did find a diagram that may help.
First remove your seat. There are two bolts that hold the back of the side covers down and two bolts that hold the front of the top cross over cover. Once you have the three push tabs at the front of each cover off and the four bolts on the back of the side covers and top cover, I believe you should be able to pop the back top cover straight up with it still attached to the back of the two side covers by the two under bolts at the very back. The top cover and the side covers will still be attached by two bolts at the very back that come up from under neath. Here is a diagram showing the 6 push pins in the front and the 6 bolts in the back.
There are 3 T30 torx screws to loosen. one in the handle area (pop out the disc) and two in the upright portion of the handle area (pop out the insert). after the screws are out then you can pop of the panel starting on one side and working down across the bottom and then up the other side. the panel is held on with plastic push pins. go to auto parts store and get a tool for removing plastic push pins. after you have popped all the pins hold it by the sides and gently lift up and it will come loose from the window trim. to totally remove the panel disconnect the yellow and green door handle cables and unplug the window and door lock switches. Peel back the liner in the area of the mirror. roll down the window and you will be able to access the 4 (10mm) screws that hold the mirror on. take out the screws and unplug the power lead and you can reverse for installing the new one.