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Check fluid in tilt &trim in a 225 yahama out boarb motor

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Usually, if you have trim tilt issues its because the seals on your trim ram(s) are failing and youre losing fluid. Prolonged issues with leaking seals make it more worth while to replace the unit, rather than spending the money to fix seals and whatever else has since corroded or failed. That being said, there is a plug, typically a phillips head or flat head, at the bottom of the trim pump, that is where you can drain or fill the fluid. VERY IMPORTANT!!! Have the motor trimmed completely up and have the trim locks holding motor up before opening plug, you can easily kill yourself or others if that motor were to lower very suddenly. Also, this procedure is best followed step by step with the manual. Skipping a step will leave air in the system and could potentially allow the motor to kick up while running, or not stay trimmed up. Unless mechanically inclined, take to a mechanic, it will save you money, time and grief. Hope this helps, feel free to ask more about this if needed.

Posted on Jun 22, 2014

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: Volvo-penta aq271c, trim will go down, but not up.no pwr at relay

First check the switch-- does it have power, then check the solenoid to see if it works-- there are two. One is for down, One is for up. If you get power from the solenoid-- outgoing-- check connections going to pump motor.

Posted on May 17, 2009

  • 5 Answers

SOURCE: tilt-trim not tilting down after being tilted all the way up

check the solinoid you should have two,one for up and one for down,you can test by putting a screwdriver on both neg and pos contacts at same time,if thats not it check to make sure nothing came unpluged

Posted on Jul 26, 2009

canbruce75
  • 1776 Answers

SOURCE: how to service a tilt/trim on a 50 hp yamaha

To check the fluid level, tilt the motor up and engage the tilt lock lever. Open the bolt on top of the tilt/trim reservoir. The fluid should be even with the bottom of the bolt hole. If not add some fluid. When you put the bolt back in, run the trim up and down a few times. That should purge any air out of the system. Always be on the lookout for any leaking hoses or fittings. Hope this helped and best wishes.

Posted on Aug 31, 2009

  • 53 Answers

SOURCE: want to replace the trim/tilt motors on my 1995

no. a unmodified transom bracket may need to be moved not removed. Since the tilt motor is out you will need to manually lift the engine. you can see the picture diagram at www.yamaha-motor.com. click on outboard motors,parts and service, view parts catalog. find your year make and model by following steps listed at top. select power trim and tilt assembly. in the picture you will see the location of the Manuel release valve on the starboard side. turn the Manuel release valve then lift the engine. tie it up or use a stand to keep it up,do not use the tilt lock. with the engine in full tilt position, you can see the motor. some brackets are modified were you can remove the motor without moving the transom bracket. If unmodified you'll need to follow these steps. (1) lower the engine back down.the steering arm needs to be removed from the steering cable and swung forward. do not remove steering arm from engine. on the starboard side of the engine you will see the steering cable going into the steering cable tube. (2)a 1 1/6 nut secures the cable to that tube remove it and slide cable out do not remove it.(3) lift engine again and secure it. your about to remove the motor mount bolt so make sure you secure the motor completely (4)remove upper and lower transom to bracket bolts remove bolts on the port side only.(5) you will see three bolt that go through the transom bracket to the trim and tilt assembly. remove them.(6) if all bolts are removed you will be able to slide the port transom bracket to the left out of the way(7) remove tilt/trim motor.

Posted on Nov 03, 2009

  • 15 Answers

SOURCE: need to replace the trim/lift motor on a 225 hp

There are lots of deals on line for better prices, get exact model and year. Have a pro marine tech install it, because of liability and no loss of money out of your pocket.

Posted on Apr 16, 2010

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1 Answer

Have evinrude 225 etec and the hydraulic tilt will not tilt motor all the way up


Hey Hunter,
First, make sure the manual release screw is seated tight.(port side of engine mount) ..Does the pump run and just not lift? Does the motor jump and jerk while you are trying to trim up? Can you lift the engine by hand while you are trimming? Have you filled the fluid reservoir with fluid? - There is a cap with a slot on the reservoir - MAKE SURE the engine if at full tilt - fill the reservoir.. you can use Dexron type III transmission fluid.... check these items and reply to me.

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1 Answer

Will low fluid level cause power trim/ tilt go not hold position


Low fluid level will cause it to fail to actuate and not go up or down, can also let it not hold position as well. Filling to proper leevel with specified lubricant is recommended. If you allow the level to go too low, the pump will pull air and could burn out.

Sep 21, 2014 | Yamaha Tilt Trim Motor, 40-90 HP Outboards...

1 Answer

How do I check my tilt&trim fluid in my 225 yamha out board


Tilt the motor all the way up and put on the tilt lock. The resorvoir on the trim unit will have a 17mm or 18mm head on the plug. Pull the plug and fill with fluid until it runs out of the hole. Reinstall plug and your done. DO NOT over tighten the plug b/c it will pull the theads out of the reservoir.

Feb 09, 2014 | Boating

1 Answer

Evinrude 50 HP outboard tilt and trim


sounds like the motor has give out . the clicking is probably the relays

Jun 14, 2013 | Boating

1 Answer

Power tilt and trim has no electric power to it?


I had the same problem with my 50HP 1998 Johnson outboard trim and tilt. What I found, after removing the trim and tilt electric motor, was that the brush holders and brushes had gummed up to the point where the brushes were seized up and no longer making contact with the armature's commutator. Fixing this problem is rather simple. Before starting, note that it could be wise to obtain a few inexpensive parts that may need replacement: the large O-ring between the tilt motor base plate and reservoir housing, and new motor brush springs. Even without these parts, you can at least do a temporary though effective repair if you need use of the boat right away, and I'll explain how.
To get started, first you need to loosen the small pressure relief screw, to left of the larger drain plug screw on the tilt/trim fluid reservoir base. Loosen about 2 and 1/2 turns. Then you can manually tilt the engine up and engage the locking lever to keep the engine raised.

power-tilt-trim-no-electric-power-lprqsg1xrvtxvcti0x1fazpm-3-0.jpg
You should be doing this with the boat out of the water and on a trailer on dry ground. Lay out a drop cloth on ground, beneath the tilt/trim unit to catch any screw that might fall when removing the tilt/trim motor, as you probably will drop one and it will be almost impossible to find without the drop cloth in place. Looking at the tilt/trim motor housing, you will notice that there are three small screws which fasten the housing to the base plate, and 4 larger phillips head screws that fasten the base plate to the fluid reservoir. You want to remove the 4 large screws. Getting at the two screws behind the tilt/trim motor is the hard part with the engine attached to the boat, but it is made relatively easy by using an appropriate tool. I used a 3/8 inch drive socket with a driver extension, fitted to a socket of the correct size to insert a large phillips head drive bit. To prevent the drive bit from falling out of the socket, I used a dab of silicone sealant inside the socket before inserting the drive bit. Here's a photo of the tool I used:

power-tilt-trim-no-electric-power-lprqsg1xrvtxvcti0x1fazpm-3-1.jpg
This tool would have been better suited for the job if it had been a quarter inch shorter. I had to lift the engine a bit more, to gain clearance, by placing a wedge under the locking lever. For each of the 2 large screws behind the tilt/trim motor, apply a dab of silicone sealant to the tip of the phillips driver bit before removing the screws. This will help to prevent removed screws from falling, though you may still have one or both drop. If one or both fall, but don't fall to the drop cloth, use a magnetic pick-up tool to fish them out before attempting to remove the tilt/trim motor from the fluid reservoir, otherwise a screw could fall into the reservoir and be difficult to remove. With all the screws safely removed, you can now lift the tilt/trim motor away from the reservoir housing. It is fitted to the housing snugly, so you will probably have to gently tap against the motor housing a few times before it will budge. Here's a photo showing the underside of the motor, with its baffle and motor shaft pump drive socket in place.

power-tilt-trim-no-electric-power-lprqsg1xrvtxvcti0x1fazpm-3-3.jpg
If you don't see the motor shaft pump drive socket as shown in this photo then it will either be found attached to the hydraulic pump, or may have fallen into the fluid reservoir, in which case you will need to find and remove it. You will need to carefully remove the large rubber O-ring that you see here surrounding the round baffle plate. With the tilt/trim motor removed, the pump reservoir is now exposed as shown below, and you should cover the reservoir immediately to prevent any debris or insects from falling into the fluid. Notice that the hydraulic pump's drive shaft, which the drive motor's shaft socket fits over, is shown at the center of the reservoir. I removed fluid so that it would be visible in the photo.

power-tilt-trim-no-electric-power-lprqsg1xrvtxvcti0x1fazpm-3-6.jpg
After you cover the reservoir to protect it, you can remove the round baffle plate from the tilt/trim motor base, and you can remove the motor housing and armature from the base plate after removing the three small phillips head screws. Next, remove the brush holders from the base plate, and what you see will look pretty much like the photo shown below. You will notice that there is some rust and corrosion where some water had evidently leaked in past the large O-ring. You'll want to remove the rust and other deposits from the housing and the brush holders, and you can also remove the reddish-brown plate seen here to clean beneath that.

power-tilt-trim-no-electric-power-lprqsg1xrvtxvcti0x1fazpm-3-10.jpg
If either or both of the brush holder springs is damaged, they will need to be replaced. For an effective yet temporary repair, until you can obtain the correct springs, either visit the local hardware store or take apart a few ball point pens until you find a similar diameter spring that you can use. I actually cut such a spring in half to get two springs of appropriate length. Notice that the tips of the brushes are curved to fit against the armature's commutator, and when reassembling them into the brush holders you want the curvature to be properly placed. With the base plate ready for reassembly, grasp the tilt/trim motor housing in one hand, as shown below, and pull the armature out of the housing. It will require that you pull ******* the armature, because the housing's field magnets want to keep the armature in place.

power-tilt-trim-no-electric-power-lprqsg1xrvtxvcti0x1fazpm-3-15.jpg
With the armature removed, wipe clean the interior of the housing as well as any accumulation on the armature. Lubricate the bearing surfaces at both shaft ends. Clean the commutator with some 400 grit wet-or-dry sanding paper so that it shines as seen above and push the armature back into the motor housing. Now you're ready to reassemble everything. Reattach the motor housing to the base plate, making sure that you hold the brushes into the brush holders, against brush spring tension, to prevent damaging the brushes. The mating surface of the motor housing to base plate, as well as the mating surface of the base plate to pump reservoir, should have a light bead of silicone sealant applied, as we've already seen that without that the unit is prone to some amount of water leakage. Don't tighten the screws fully, as you want to allow the sealant time to cure before doing so. This will give you a better seal. When reinstalling the tilt/trim motor with attached base plate into the pump reservoir, carefully line up the drive socket of the motor shaft with the hexagonal hydraulic pump shaft so that they will come together properly. Since the base plate fits snugly in the reservoir housing, you won't be able to turn the base plate to obtain alignment. Tighten down each of the four large base plate screws slowly and equally to draw the base plate into the reservoir housing evenly, but don't tighten all the way until the silicone sealant cures. Then tighten the 4 large screws and the 3 smaller ones, and you're power tilt should be ready to go after ensuring that the fluid is topped off. Top off the fluid and retighten the screw shown in the first photo before unlocking and letting the engine down with the power tilt. You should raise and lower the power tilt several times to purge air from the system. Air is purged by loosening the smaller screw in photo #1, and then retightening it after you hear the air escape, after which additional fluid should be added with the large upper screw of the reservoir housing removed and then replaced.

Jul 04, 2012 | Sierra International 18-6756 Marine Power...

1 Answer

The trim/tilt on my 97 Johnson 150 outboard is not moving. Tilt motor runs. Some time ago my mechanic told me not to run the tilt all the way to the top, which is, I think, what happened. Any ideas on...


Make sure there is not a spring loaded locking lift latch engauged. If there is you will see a little movement and then the motor will sound slower. If there is no movement and the motor runs the same speed with no change you are low on hydraulic tilt and trim fluid.

Please take a moment and rate my answer............ Thanks

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1 Answer

Were do i put hydraulic oil in my honda 75 outboard motor


Raise the motor all the way up and lock the support mechanism in place. As you are looking at the back underneith of the motor, you should be able to see the three trim/tilt rams. Just to the right of the center ram, you should be able to see a plasic cap about 3/4" in diameter. Unscrew the cap and fill with power tilt and trim fluid (you can also use dextron II or III) until it is filled to the bottom edge of the hole. Put the cap back on. Run it up and down a few times, then check it again. You may have to add a little more fluid if you had some aid in the system.

Hope that helps.

Mike

Hope that

Aug 15, 2010 | Boating

1 Answer

How to service a tilt/trim on a 50 hp yamaha outboard. I think the fluid is low as the trim will leak back down after raising the engine.


To check the fluid level, tilt the motor up and engage the tilt lock lever. Open the bolt on top of the tilt/trim reservoir. The fluid should be even with the bottom of the bolt hole. If not add some fluid. When you put the bolt back in, run the trim up and down a few times. That should purge any air out of the system. Always be on the lookout for any leaking hoses or fittings. Hope this helped and best wishes.

Aug 31, 2009 | Boating

1 Answer

My 1978 140 evinrude electric trim tilt motor working but wont lift or lower happend suddenly after it lifted.maybe the pump?


First make sure you are not in transit mode. Some outboards have a lever which keeps the motor tilted for trailering. You should have a fuse for the tilt motor, check that. If the pump is turning and it sounds like it is whining you are pushing air and either lost your hydraulic fluid or have an air bubble in the system. Check your fluid reservoir.

Jun 06, 2009 | Boating

2 Answers

Where do i put in hydraulic fluid in a johnson 225 boat motor


if its an outboard you will see a reservoir near the cylinder on back, be careful and set the shallow drive lever so the weight is off the hydros when you open it, there can be up to 3000psi if it has weight/pressure on it

once added you have to blead air bubbles, go up then down at least 10 times

also a boat parts store(phone book) may be able to help you

Jan 02, 2009 | Plumbing

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