Question about Kenmore Elite Oasis 27052 Top Load Washer

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While doing testing on my oasisi washer it stop at c8 and i clean out the pipe and drainage tube and still wouldn't go past c8 on the test

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SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: The last 3 times after using my top load Kenmore

DO NOT use Draino or any other drain clog removal chemicals to clean a washer. It could damage the tub seal, drain lines and/or pump & impeller. If you wish to clean the washer, you need to access the drain pump and remove the drain lines and flush them out. The following link explains how you can access and remove the pump:

I would recommend you UNPLUG the washer and take it to a location where you can flush water through it. Preferrably outside, or in a garage. If you lie the drain hose on the floor and fill the wash tub with a garden hose, simple gravity will flush water through the tub basin, drain pump and drain lines.

If you have any questions about these procedures, please post back and let me know. I hope you find this information helpful.

NOTE: The drain pump has only one moving part (the impeller). It is a common place for debris to collect. Remove the two drain hoses on the pump to inspect.

Posted on Jun 25, 2010


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My zanussi washer zwh6160 p stopped working yesterday. It stopped with a load in it. We gad to manually drain it, then git the door open. We cleaned the filter and inlet pipe filter. We switched it on

Considering that machine did not show any error first check that is not activated option "rinse hold" what mean's "stop drum with full of water". I advise you to make a simple test that will show you where the problem is. In the washing machine or somewhere else. Disconnect the drain hose and lift it up to 1m in height and its end hold over the tub or some larger container. Select short drain program and press the start / pause button. If drain hose ejects a solid water stream then is a problem in-house installation of drain water. If does't or poorly drain water then is problem in the washing machine.


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I am getting a d5 error on my samsung front load washer

One common error with these machines Is that the water level sensor pipework has a small hole. The pipe is connected to the drum, and as the unit rotates it will cause the rubber tubing to be degraded. If a small tear appears it will cause the sensor to malfunction - when there is no negative pressure as the water drains (or vacuum) it assumes the water is still there/. Either find the tear and repair with bicyle repair kit, or if the tear is near to the sensor connector - cut off and reattach slightly shorter tube.

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I have a Campbell Hausfeld WL651500AJ and it wouldn't go past 50PSI. I went ahead and looked up the issue and found many people with the same problem, most of which people said the reed valve were the

Air compressors generate a huge amount of heat compressing air. It is not unusual for the copper tube to be too hot to touch after three minutes of running. Replace the tube and see if it fixes your problem. Another common cause of only getting to 50psi is a bad seal between the piston and cylinder. There is no need to use sylicone to seal anything on the pump, just make sure all the gaskets are in good condition and all screws are very snug, don't overtighten as stripped bolt hole threads are a bear to fix.

Dec 23, 2011 | Campbell Hausfeld 26 - Gallon Air...

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My washer has a LD in the minute screen how do i get this off

LD is an error code relating to poor drainage. Check the drain hose and/or pipe for a clog. It's also possible that debris could have worked itself into the drain pump, causing a delay in drainage. Fixing your drainage problem will fix the LD error code.

Jun 05, 2011 | Whirlpool Cabrio WTW6600SBT Top Load...

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My badger 9 disposal just stopped working. It is less than 2 years old. The blades turn freely, the reset button is in. It does not make any noise. Any other ideas?

1) Test disposal is getting electricity and switch is not bad.
Pull out switch so you can test wires:
Switch in ON position.
Use ordinary tester and test each brass screw to bare ground wire.
Tester should light up on each screw.

2) Next open wire connection at disposal and test & check wiring.
Be careful under the sink. Do not touch anything metal while working on live electricity.
Stay on completely dry surface.

3) In event of bad disposal, I wrote installation tips.
These tips do not include installing new disposal and taking old one back in same box as if it was a defective product.

When I worked apartment maintenance, we replaced disposal with same size and brand disposal.
That way we didn't have to change out sink basket or move pipes around under the sink.
How to: Disconnect 2 nuts on p-trap and trap falls loose.
Rotate steel connector disk that holds disposal to sink basket, and disposal comes off.
Before installing new disposal.
Attach electric wire to new disposal.
Attach dishwasher tube to new disposal. Knock out plug inside dishwasher opening.
Push new disposal up into place, and attach to old sink basket.
Use new connector washer.
Attachment ring catches at three points, all three have to connect.
You can use bottle jack to lift disposal if you have problem.
Re-assemble tubular pipe.


You might want to install new sink basket that comes with new disposal because it looks shiny and new.
Buy a tub of plumbers putty also.
Remove old sink basket and clean sink opening.
Put finger-size roll of plumbers putty around sink opening, and then push new strainer basket into plumbers putty.
Tighten basket from below, wipe away excess putty around sink opening.
Install new disposal as described above.


Tips for tubular pipes:
When taking apart tubular pipes, start at p-trap and take apart as few pieces as needed to do job.
On image above, loosen both upper and lower nuts, trap falls loose, and then work on disposal.
Any tubular drain pipe that gets moved while working under sink needs to be disassembled, cleaned and re-assembled.
Metal pipes have rubber washer >> always use new rubber washers.
Plastic pipes have plastic washers > plastic washers can be cleaned and re-used.
Plastic washers have flat side that goes toward nut, tapered side away from nut.


When reassembling tubular pipe, we use rectorseal on washers and joints.
Slap a good amount on washer just before pushing washer in place and attaching nut.
Rectorseal will ensure tubular drain pipes won't leak.

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Jan 02, 2011 | Ace Hardware InSinkErator Badger 5, 1/2 HP...

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I keep getting a E 4 signal. A Bosche rep told me the signal is due too much soap in the washer and can be cleaned out with softner. No luck. The cycle starts but stops in the middle with water left...

You can find this issue addressed on another site....

Due to popular request, here is more information on the E:04 problem, and some assorted tips:

If you get the E:04 error, he first thing to try is turning the washer off and back on again. You will more than likely have to begin the cycle over, but sometimes this will clear the message.

Since clogging up the drainage pipe, I have gotten that E:04 message when I've used too much laundry soap. I think that's the main reason people see that message. Just turn the washer off and start the cycle again WITHOUT adding any additional soap. I think the suds somehow make the washer think the drainage pipe is clogged.

The other thing that can happen is a genuine clog, like in the case I described in my review. The Bosch is excellently engineered to protect the pump from damage. There is a circular panel on the front of the washer that hides the drainage hose. Remove this panel (simple, but there is a knack to it) and you can pull the drainage hose out. Keep a bucket handy because the hose will be full of water. You may lose a little bit of skin off your hand during this process, and it's best if you can have the salesman demonstrate this procedure for you. That panel is not the easiest thing to remove. You have to reach in past some sharp metal to get to the drainage pipe. Wrap a towel around your hand and BE CAREFUL. It's definitely worth a shot if saving a service call is worth it to you (and clearing out clogs are NOT covered by the basic warranty). My service man assured me that removing this panel would not invalidate the warranty, but you may want to check with your dealer before you open up yours.

It's been about six months and I still adore my washer. I've found the Temp Boost setting is best for cotton towels, Delicates is great for, well, delicates, the Warm Permanent Press setting is great for jeans, and Cold Permanent Press great for most clothes. To avoid getting small items stuck between the glass and the rubber inner seal, do not overload the washer. If I try to wash too many socks, one will now and then end up in that small space. You can cram one big thing in the washer and it will still get clean (I regularly wash a bathroom carpet in there), but DO NOT cram it full of lots of little things. Follow the helpful loading instructions for each cycle.

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2 Answers

Water overflows in washer

hi friend,
    Water Inlet Valve
  1. The water inlet valve connects the hot and cold water lines before entering into the washer, combining the two by means of solenoids in the appropriate proportions. The valve can become worn over time to the degree that it cannot close itself entirely, meaning water will continue to flow through it until the solenoids engage and shut off the flow. This can easily result in an overflow. To test the water inlet valve, first unplug the washing machine and disconnect the valve from the machine's back. Have a bucket handy because, if the valve is faulty, a good amount of water will drain from the valve when you disconnect it. A replacement water inlet valve is inexpensive and easily swapped out for the old one, provided you remember to turn off the water pressure leading to the hoses.
  2. Water Level Switch
  3. The water level switch is also known as the pressure switch. There should be a clear plastic tub running down from the control console to end near the bottom of the washer's drum. As water fills the drum, it rises within the tube as well, compressing the air already in the tube against the pressure switch. If the tube has become brittle and cracked, it will allow air to escape, preventing pressure from building inside and throwing the switch. Test it by blowing into the end. You should hear a click from the control console. If you do not hear anything, then either the pressure switch is broken or the tube is cracked. Remove the tube and the switch, which should be connected to the control console. The console can be accessed in various methods, depending on the exact model of washer you own. You should be able to remove the console by following instructions in the appliance's ownership manual. Blow directly against the pressure switch once you gain access. If it clicks, then the tube needs to be replaced; if it does not, then the pressure switch itself needs to be replaced.
  4. Drainage Problems
  5. The water outlet pipe near the base of the washer can become clogged with debris over time. Since washers continuously drain out dirty water and replace it with clean water as they wash clothes, it's possible that if the outlet valve or pipe is obstructed, the washer will overflow. Turn off the water and electricity leading to the washer and detach the outlet pipe, both at the machine and the wall. Run water through the pipe until the flow coming out is strong and clear and contains no sediment. If the pipe was clean to begin with, then the pipe running through the back of the wall to the drain may be the culprit. The pipe fitting should be female ended, identical to that of a garden hose. Attach a garden hose and slowly turn the water on until it's running at full force. The line should be cleared by the water pressure after 10 minutes of this. Attach the drain hose and turn the water and electricity back on.
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2 Answers

Washer is leaking out of overflow tube

check the drainage pipe, the hose goes into and make sure its not clogged, once you know there are no obstructions reattach the drain hose. be sure it goes a couple of inches into the pipe but has a little space for air flow between hose and pipe. I this doesnt fix the problem the hose made need to be raised, it should enter the pipe several inches higher than the washer. Hope this helps

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Washer wont run or drain

hi friend,
step 1
Check to make sure that the lid locks properly upon closing. You can do this by closing the lid and listening for an audible "click." If you don't hear one, you may need to replace the latch.
  • Step 2 Pull the washing machine out from the wall.
  • Step 3 Remove the draining pipe that runs from the back of the washing machine and into your drain by unscrewing the square panel that holds it in place.
  • Step 4 Tip the drainage pipe into a bucket. If nothing comes out, you have a blockage.
  • Step 5 Push an unbent clothes hanger into the tube. Try to force any obstruction through the pipe, or try and hook it and pull it out. It is most likely a small item of clothing, a hairpin or some other small obstruction.
  • Step 6 Drain the tube into the bucket when you've removed the blockage.
  • Step 7 Screw the panel back onto the back of the washing machine.
  • jQuery('.article ol .image').each(function(i,e){ var $this = jQuery(this); $this.find('img').error(function(){ jQuery(this).remove(); $this.remove(); }); }); Tips & Warnings
    • If this method does not clear your washing machine, call a professional repairman. Any repairs past the drainage tube are best left to a professional.
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    i dont know if this is right but your washer might be old or it might need a flu pipe. the other reason is that one of the other pipes like the drainage pipe is blocked or old or rusty and cant let water past it, since your drainage pipe is different from the washing pipe the water stays their and you need to turn the spin cycle on to let it pass through the washing pipe instead of the drainage pipe.

    Dec 27, 2008 | Kenmore 46462 Front Load Washer

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