At normal operating temperature, dashboard lights dim, clock dims

It is possible that you have a faulty alternator. You do get rare occasions where a faulty unit slips through the system and gets sold. Please read this all the way through as it give more than one way to check for where the problem could be.
How old is the battery? They are considered 'Old' once they are over 5 years old. If you know how to use a multimeter try this.
You'll need to check both the alternator and the battery. For the battery - With the engine OFF test the DC voltage of the battery. It should be somewhere between 12.6 and 13.2 volts. Anything lower than 10 volts and it could be a faulty battery. Even a fully charged battery can struggle to supply power if it is old or worn out.
For the alternator - Start the vehicle and retest the battery voltage. It should read somewhere between 13.7 and 14.7 volts. If it's noticeably lower (or higher) it is most likely the alternator.
If you don't have a multimeter you can try a basic test. Get a helper to stand in front of the vehicle. With the park brake On turn on your head lights THEN start the engine. Your helper is watching for a significant dimming in the headlights. The lights should dim as you crank the engine then brighten again. Next turn everything else on, including the stereo, A/C, courtesy light. This is to put the battery and alternator under heavy load. If the headlights dim noticeably It is possibly the alternator.
Most companies often have a guarantee or a warranty on the alternator so a replacement shouldn't cost you anything.

Check the belt tension on the alternator belt, belt may need replacing. Also the battery may be week, so have that 'load' tested. Most batteries don't last more than 5 years

Combination of brake and battery light mean the alternator is not charging. after you wait for a wile the battery recover some power and will run again but as soon the power drop below 9V the engine die. Test the charging system and replace the alternator
Good Luck

Wouldn't be a fuse, but it seems as if the alternator is still not putting out normal power, or else your battery has a problem taking a charge. Better have the battery tested for a dead cell. also see what a voltmeter says about alternator output now. If you have an electrical problem in the wiring somewhere or in the alt. charging controls, then possibly one or more of the diodes in the alternator may got burnt out. That means the alternator puts out less power.
On some newer cars, the engine computer, pcm, controls the rate of charge of the alternator. So you have to be careful diagnosing -know how your system operates. That's why mechanics always ask for year, make, model, and engine size if applicable.

Alternator. Have it tested with a voltmeter while on the car and running. Or take it off and have it tested. The current to run the car and the accessories is from the alternator when the engine is running. The battery light coming on alerts you that the alternator is not doing its job.

Sounds like the alternator is not fully charging the battery -- could be faulty alternator (including faulty voltage regulator), or just bad connections between battery / alternator / ground.

More info, please let me know.

Charlie

hey ! guyz i dnt knw for sum reason my dash board lights are not working, i have checkd the fuse and the bulbs buh they are perfect can ny1 tell me whatz wrong wiv ma 1998 honda civic dashboard lights.

maybe something shorting out drawing power did u have alt tested before switching out to make sure it was bad- sum auto stores such as auto zone/advanced auto can do a load test on vehicle for free will show if their is an excess draw on elect or if new alt is faulty (does happen) check serpentine belt and pulleys belt may be slipping then check ground strap , starter for draw or some other accessory

Could be a loose or dirty battery connection, poor battery, or alternator. Check all the cables and connections to your starter. Clean your battery posts. Have your alternator and battery checked. It sounds like you are either running off just the battery or just the alternator. One of them is not right.

Not sure why yours lasted so long because I replaced the alternator in my '95 SL2 SIX (6) times before the engine self-destructed at 56,700 miles. They run hot because they receive little airflow where they are mounted and are physically too small to deliver the kind of power required of them.
Most chain auto parts stores will test your alternator free and I suggest you do that before growing more frustrated with it and possibly land in a dangerous situation caused by the failure of it.