My hp-2rnb servo stop working - Hitec HP-2RNB-40 - 2 Channel 40Mhz AM Receiver

The stop lights won't go out until the pedal is depressed, as there is a switch which is activated by the pedal.

A hard brake pedal is probably caused by a defective servo. The hissing noise is probably an air leak in the servo.

Switch the engine on, open the bonnet (the hood..) and see if you can locate the hissing - that'll probably be in the brake servo area.

If you don't know what a brake servo looks like here is a generic image:

Try a brake servo test by pumping the brake pedal until hard and keeping pressure on the pedal and start the engine and if the servo is working the pedal should move down slightly if not servo is faulty
If you have ABS the pump could be faulty and that needs a trained engineer to test and repair if possible

Hi,
This may be similar to what I just fixed on an '00 dodge:
http://www.dodgeintrepid.net/showthread.php?t=89711

Accessing the Integrated Diagnostic System:

Procedure for Automatic Temp Control (ATC) equipped vehicles:

With the engine ON and the vehicle stopped set the temp to 75*F. Next hold down the Floor, Mix and Defrost buttons until the ATC display begins to flash. While the display is flashing, the system will run it's tests and calibrations.

When the display stops flashing, the tests and calibrations are complete.

The ATC display can only display one error code at a time. Any stored codes can be scrolled through by pressing the Panel mode button once for each code. DO NOT press any other button or you will have to start the test over. Note the codes and refer to the list below to determine what system is malfunctioning.

List of Climate Control DTCs:
23: Blend door actuator feedback failure (bad servo)
24: Mode door actuator feedback failure (bad servo)
25: Ambient temp sensor failure
26: ATC In Car thermister failure (ATC only, bad ATC head or ATC head disconnected while battery is connected)
27: ATC in car sensor failure (ATC only)
31: Recirculation door actuator stalled (stuck door or bad servo)
32: Blend door actuator stall failure (stuck door or bad servo)
33: Mode door actuator stall failure (stuck door or bad servo)
34: Engine temperature message not received (ATC only, bad ATC head or bus failure)
35: Evaporator sensor failure
36: ATC control communication failure (bad ATC head or bus failure)
37: Blend door actuator output shorted to battery (bad servo or wiring fault)
38: Blend door actuator output shorted to ground (bad servo or wiring fault)
39: Mode door actuator output shorted to battery (bad servo or wiring fault)
40: Mode door actuator output shorted to ground (bad servo or wiring fault)
41: Recirculation door actuator output shorted to battery (bad servo or wiring fault)
42: Recirculation door actuator output shorted to ground (bad servo or wiring fault)
43: Common door shorted to battery (probable wiring fault, could be a servo that failed in an odd manner)
44: Common door shorted to ground (probable wiring fault, could be a servo that failed in an odd manner)
45: A/C control blend door input open or shorted with respect to ground (MTC only, wiring fault or bad servo)
46: A/C control blend door shorted to battery (MTC only, wiring fault or bad servo)
47: A/C switch failure (MTC only)
48: A/C control mode door input shorted to ground (MTC only, wiring fault or bad servo)
49: A/C control mode door input shorted to battery (MTC only, wiring fault or bad servo)
50: A/C control electric backlite (EBL) switch fails (MTC only)

51: System voltage too low for calibration!!! (check battery cables, battery and alternator!)

run fault codes and look for faulty torque converter clutch servo/solenoid. TGhis has to work to get anything from the transmission Check the TCM as it controls the solenoid/servo unit.

Check that vacuum line to the servo or booster (as it is sometimes called) is attached with no holes in it if that looks good then its probably the servo. the servo is what your master cylinder bolts onto. this happened to mine, to replace simply unbolt master cyl. from serve the unbolt servo by reaching under dash just above brake pedal and pulling carpet down and remove the 2 or 3 nuts or bolts holding servo then pull servo from firewall and replace.

Possible the check valve on the servo won't work,or you do have a cracked plastic pipe connected from engine manifold to check valve or even after the valve towards the servo and makes the brake pedal strong on application but very hard to stop.

The role of servo is toadjust the idle during aircon is load and stabilize the idle during cold start in the morning,it is ok to remove the gear but the idle is too high

Hi
Your ESC is sensing an error. The error is either blade speed or a peripheral device - possibly servo or gyro. Sub the servos one by one. Check the blade tracking. Have you had any crashes lately? You should double check all the head assembly components.

Hi
Assuming the transmitter is still set correctly then the problem is either your receiver is defective or your throttle servo is defective and/or both. Don't start the engine but switch the servo wires. If the switched servo now doesn't work then your receiver is bad, if it does work then the other servo is bad. Good luck

turn your servos around