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I have a really old brother lock 546D. not used for a long time. have oiled. stitch and sewing is fine, but machine is very raspy and noisy. can I fix this?

Posted by Anonymous on

6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

bargainbox
  • 1388 Answers

SOURCE: My bottom thread is loose when sewing a straight stitch

Please TRY the solution BEFORE giving your considered rating.




Ensure that all is clean and free of lint and jams, this is the most likely cause....now for tension troubleshooting .......

This solution is for tension problems...if you cannot form any sort of stitch, the issue is quite different, so please let me know if you need a different problem solved.....

It is quite long, but just work through each section in order.
The "knotting up" can reveal a lot. If you have loose threads on one side or the other, the tension on the opposite side will be the culprit.

QUICK SUMMARY FIRST:
Ensure sharp new needle,
Thread guides and Bobbin are Clean & Clear of lint
Set Top Tesion to 4 ....then....
Balance Bobbin to suit.

TOP THREAD TENSION:
If the looping threads are on the underside as you sew, it is the top tension. Top tension ought to be between 4 & 6 (this variation to allow for the different weights of fabric in your
projects).

IS YOUR NEEDLE SHARP ?
If you are using a needle that has seen quite a deal of work, or you suspect it may be blunt, change it for a new one !

TOP TENSION & GUIDES:
Make sure that when you thread the machine the presser foot is up so the thread goes between the discs and not to one side, top tension between 4 and 6, and that you have threaded through all the guides, including the last one, usually on the needle arm, just above the needle clamp.

It may be there is lint trapped between the discs, this will keep them slightly apart and reduce the actual tension, sometimes dramatically.

If tensions appear correct, and the thread is definitely in the channel between the discs, but still too loose and looping, try raising presser foot and remove your thread.

Now, with a 2" (50mm) wide strip piece of fabric 8 - 10" (20 - 25cm) moistened with methylated or denatured spirit, gently insert the fabric strip and clean between the discs with
a see saw / to and fro action.

In the worst cases, gentle use of a needle to pick & remove the jam may be necessary, but be very gentle and make sure the tension is set at Zero and the presser foot is raised, (to
disengage tension plates).... do not gouge or score the plates, they need a polished surface to work correctly.

BOBBIN TENSION:
Far less common, but if the loose threads are on the top, it is bobbin tension that is loose, it too may have lint in the spring and be giving a "false" tension.

I would not recommend fiddling with bobbin tension without good reason, it may end up with missing small screws and spring pieces, however, you can take the needle plate off to clean
the hook race area (where bobbin case sits)

...this is just good housekeeping, my wife does this every time she replaces the bobbin....

just take it out and clean the bobbin case and the fixed metal hook race with a small brush to remove lint. If there is a significant amount of lint, use a vacuum and small brush to get the worst.

Then wipe all this area with a cloth or cotton bud (Q tip) moistened (not soaked) with methylated spirit, especially if there appears to be fine dirty deposits....oil and lint combine to conspire against you.

If it seems likely that you ......really ....do .....actually .....need .....to adjust the bobbin case, first check there is no lint trapped in the metal spring where the thread is tensioned.

TOP LOADER:
Drop-in Bobbin case will look similar to this image with the tension screw in the middle of the metalwork....

4c76dc1.jpg ...the other screw at one end is holding it all together, so beware....it is not a tragedy to undo the whole lot and clean it, but very gingerly and lay the bits out in sequence and orientation, or you risk tearing your hair out !

FRONT LOADER:
....this is a bobbin case from a front loading machine and works in a very similar fashion to the top loader with drop in bobbin, again, if you dismantle it, take care so you can put it all
back properly.
165ca5c.jpg FINISHING UP
GETTING THE BALANCE RIGHT:
When you are certain there's no trapped lint in top tension or bobbin, set the top tension to 4 and the bobbin tension to a point where you just begin to feel resistance.

Try using good quality thread of contrasting colours so you can more easily spot the changes.

Set your zigzag to one width less than maximum (eg. 5 of 6 ...or... 4 of 5 etc) and sew a sample for a few inches and check the result.... adjust the bobbin tension screw very little at
a time, perhaps 1/16 of a turn.

You may find you are playing with this balance for some little while and if you are putting the needleplate on and off each time begin to think it cannot be correct to do this.....BUT....it is,
and eventually, you do get a "feel" for the correct tension and then it happens quite quickly.....as a user you won't be doing it very often unless there is lint built up (or are there small hands at work around the house !?!?!)

OTHER ISSUES:
If you live near the ocean as we do, salt air can play havoc with metalwork inside and out, so to help minimise this, keep a few small packets of dessicant (silica gel) in your machine
case....no case ? then make some sort of cover !

Same applies in any damp or humid environment, keep your machine dry and dust free.

Budget for a proper full service every couple of years (more often if heavily used) and if you don't use your machine for a few years, be aware that old oil will dry out and combining with
dust and form a "clag" like glue (another reason for some sort of cover, even a teatowel !)

FINALLY, A WORD ON THREAD:
If it is worth spending the time, energy and money on making something that you would like to give lasting enjoyment......use quality thread, .......it may seem to cost a little more at the
time, but the results, ease of use and added longevity will be worth the extra, and as a bonus, your tension troubles may be fewer and further between, because there is a more consistent diameter with good thread, and less compensating to be done by your tension plates and less thread breaks !


Posted on Jul 24, 2008

vash4me
  • 5 Answers

SOURCE: Machine sews zigzag although stitch is set at 0 for straight

It must be a design flaw- things don't always last like they are supposed to. I would personally check the physical reason it is not responding... knowing what it would take to make it stop moving- or whatis causing it to. *perhaps the switch isn't working to stop it- or the mechanism that controls it is worn down. If it was new- I'd return it- but there are only a few options at this point.

Posted on Jan 13, 2009

  • 69 Answers

SOURCE: Brother vx790, my stitches are reversed ( top is on botom & bottom is on top )

It sounds like your tensions are out of adjustment. Your upper tension should be between 3-5 and make sure the tension in your bobbin case is not too tight as well. Pull the thread through the bobbin case and make sure it comes out with a small amount of resistance. If no resistance, tighten the tension just a bit, if too much resistance, loosen it just a small bit at a time.

Posted on Feb 12, 2009

  • 188 Answers

SOURCE: needle stuck in right position, will only sew tiny,tiny stitches

oil it. down the shaft if you can get to it. and where ever there is a hole it always helps.

Posted on Mar 26, 2009

  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I get an E6 message while trying to sew on my Brother cs-6000

Here is the online manual for your machine. http://www.brother-usa.com/ModelDocuments/Consumer/Users%20Manual/UM_CS_6000_ES_2000_EN_185.PDF

Posted on Mar 30, 2009

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1 Answer

My brother lock 546D has seized what can I do


Ooh, do not use WD-40 or old sewing machine oil. WD40 will work for a short time but turns to gunk quickly and just add to the current problem. The old oil has solidified and turned to glue.

Pick up some liquid Tri-Flow Synthetic Lube (hardware store or bike shop). Apply 1-2 drops every place that metal rubs on metal. Do NOT oil belts, synthetic parts, or tension disks.

Then direct heated air from a handheld hairdryer into the internal mechanism. You may have to repeat alternating lube and heat. If the oil has solidified and seized, this activity should loosen it.

In the future, be sure to keep the machine cleaned and lubed (even when in storage). An overlocker requires more frequent lube since it stitches so much faster than a sewing machine. If you want, you can pick up oil that is especially for sergers--it is usually a lighter weight than regular sewing machine oil.

...

Oct 08, 2016 | Brother Sewing Machines

1 Answer

Should I trade my Singer Merritt 3130 for Brothers JX2517


A: You asked, "Should I trade my Singer Merritt 3130 for Brothers JX2517". Ultimately, it is up to you, as to whether you prefer the more vintage aspects of the Singer-Merritt 3130, or the sewing feel you get from the newer Brother JX2517. If you have been sewing on a Singer-Merritt 3130 which is in proper adjustment for some time and you are used to the sound and feel of this heavier machine, I think you will have more than half the answer already.
However, do compare your Singer Merritt 3130 it to the Brother JX2517. Though I have not used that particular model Brother, I have sewn on several modern "plastic" Brothers, that all sewed very well (most Brothers are great machines), but were all much louder and more rattly than the three Singer Merritt models I own (two Models 4552 (the first one I owned quickly became my favorite GO-TO machine for most tasks) plus one more modern "plastic" Singer Merritt 9618, that I was quite impressed with too, though it is a different ball game.
The Brother JX2517, looks as if it has a lot of bells and whistles, and does 17 stitch patterns and a 4-Step Buttonhole; it might be OK for you, but you must do some sewing tests with both. Because this Brother it is a modern machine, it won't take much maintenance, but if something goes wrong you probably will not be able to fix it yourself, and will need to take it into a repair shop (where, unfortunately, they may just want to sell you the next new model they have in stock).
When it gets down to really sewing, the added fancy stitches will not matter to you at all. What you will want is a machine that lays the stitches down where you want them, predictably and reliably without missing a stitch, jamming or fouling. Try them side by side without the pressure of a salesman standing over you, nibbling your ear and praising the new machine and pointing out the limitations of your old machine. Test sewing on very thick folds of denim and also on very thin layers of cotton, rayon or even silk, but mostly test the type of stuff you usually sew. Look closely at the stitches, if either machine does not produce nearly perfect stitches, then you cannot make a decision right then, that is not until both have been properly adjusted to sew nearly perfect stitches (which I am sure both can be so adjusted). Only when both machines are sewing at their best, can you really compare the two for the finer details.
Try closing your eyes to just "Listen" and "Feel" each machine as it sews, but don't get your fingers caught ! Which machine would you enjoy sewing with in the long run. The answer should be clear, but if not, there is always another option.
ALTERNATIVE: If you are still not sure which is better for you, and if you are still hell-bent to buy yourself a new toy, then don't "Trade In" your Singer Merritt 3130, but instead Bargain with the Salesman or Owner, to get them to give you the "Trade-In Discount", without giving up your old machine. I did this on a new Singer CG590, but be careful, you may end up with more sewing machines than you have room for. Keep sewing.
Sincerely,
-- Amender (2016 FEB 24)

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HOW TO CHANGE THE OLD BELT ON THIS MACHINE


The one thing on a sewing machine that needs the most repair work is the belt. The sewing machine belt is a piece of rubber that makes the wheel turn and the needle go up and down in a sewing motion. If the belt is in bad shape, the sewing machine will not work. Sometimes while sewing you may notice a burnt rubber smell. When you smell this, you know it is time to change the belt. Changing a sewing machine belt is fairly easy; just make sure you have the proper belt.

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CAn a brother lock 9290 sewing machine do just a straight stitch?


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What are the types of sewing machine for t-shirt making?


almost any machine can be used to sew tee shirts. all you really need is a stretch stitch and overlock stitch which event the most basic machine has these days. try using an old shirt that you no longer wear and try different stitches, stitch lengths until you are satisfied with the results,

Oct 29, 2010 | Brother LS-2125 Mechanical Sewing Machine

1 Answer

I sewed small zig zag stitches with no poblem but when sewing a larger zig zag stitch, the machine is noisy, and 2 needles\r\nhave broken. whats wrong?


I would call Brother, at 1-877-276-8437 and find out what they think is the problem, and have them advise you where to take it. In the meantime, make sure nothing is up in the shaft where you needle goes in, try to clean it out. That is really a strange problem. Good luck.

Oct 10, 2010 | Brother CS-8072 Computerized Sewing...

1 Answer

I've been doing a lot of sewing over the past week and now the bobbin area sounds really noisy -like metal rubbing. The stitching is fine it sounds terrible. Do I need to oil the machine, and if so, where...


Hi. Your machine is probably just dirty. Have you cleaned out the lint? It will build up in the bobbin area and cause all kinds of problems unless you clean it out. A small brush works wonders. Take out the bobbin and bobbin case and clean all that old lint out. At the same time you clean the machine, you should also oil it. Use regular sewing machine oil and put one drop in all the oil ports (see my photo of an oil port at robbiesews.blogspot.com). If you don't see the oil port, the old rule of thumb was one drop of oil wherever a metal part rubs against another metal part.

I clean and oil my machines after every 8 hours of sewing and I think that's pretty much what the manufacturers recommend, although some new machines are self-oiling. Check your manual to be sure. (Self-oiling machines still need the lint cleaned out regularly.)\

Hope this helps!

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