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Kawasaki mule 2012 4010 aftr running few minutes temp light will start flashing and efi light comes on then rpms just at idle

I was in it the other day a hose came off of engine lost wtr. idled for about 10 minutes repaired hose and now it starts great but you run for a little while the temp light starts flashing give it gas and efi light comes on

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The thermastat is probly stuck shut replace it with a new one if problem still persist you may have engine damage aka cracked head ect

Posted on Apr 29, 2014

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SOURCE: rattling in engine bay

check your belts and the bolts around that area, sounds like loose bolts causing something to move and rub

Posted on Aug 05, 2013

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SOURCE: #1cylinder not firing on 2003 3010 Kawasaki mule

if its firing ok on other cylinders, unlikely to be pump or fuel filter, focus on electrics, plug, ht lead etc

Posted on Dec 08, 2013

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After running for a few minutes temp light will start flashing when u give it gas efi light comes on and will only idle


There are a few things that can cause this problem, though with it giving temp indicators and fuel problems I would look at things in the following order:

Fuel filters-Check the pickup screen on the pump first, then any in-line filters along the fuel line.

Oil levels-make sure your motor is properly filled with CLEAN oil. If you are running low, you will get friction which will cause heat buildup and can wear the motor out.

Injectors-Run some SeaFoam through the engine if the fuel filters are clean. With any vehicle that sits without regular usage, debris can foul the injectors.

Spark plugs-If your plugs are fouled our burnt out, you'll get improper ignition and pre-detonation or post-detonation. This is VERY bad for your motor.

Ignition timing-if the motor uses a rotary distributor for ignition, ensure the timing is proper.

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22re starts good but after a minute starts to lopes


surge, lopes, hunts, all same. but does it do this hot/cold or both engine temps.?????????
Im and expert on this.... done many and is related to EFI fuel controls
big time..... (ive even programmed Megasquirts to do this)
first the rules then causes.
Rule 1, The EFI controls idle at all times. so that proves.
Macro reasons.
1: EFI lost control. (stuck ISC?)
2: Engine is missiing (too rich, too lean or never tuned up)
3: or both, usually #2 causes 1 ,

there are ways to solve this riddle
my ways are simple
i test the ISC, see if it works, (unplug it or power it with 12v power supply, ) Id clean the ISC first.

this old car 1992 , scan tools are hard to find for OBD1 cars.
so cant look to see if CLosed loop is working, I can with a scope
but you dont have a scope.
you could put in the diagnostic check jumper and hope for an error code to flash out.
you can look as spark plugs (newones work wonder) and see
if its burning fuel correctly (like old school carb days)
black?> white tips>
all engine carbs and EFI all will surge when lean,.
all, and on EFI it will in fact try to stop the surge,
if lean enough the EFI can actually make the surge worse
is it tries desperately to correct the impossible.@!

that be surge.
i learnd that loping my mule one day.. LOL

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Its probably the head gaskets. When you do the compression test its not running and the holes in the gasket could seal up. When it gets hot a hole could appear in the gasket or even a crack in the head.
Its clear from the rising coolant levels that something is putting pressure into the coolant, do the bubbles in the coolant smell of fuel?

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which gave me the following faul codes P0353 Ign coil 3 malfunction and P1357 Ign coil 3 Short circuit to vbatt/over temp I then started up the bike and the EFI light was flashing again. On checking the sensors page of Tuneboy it showed coils 12 & 4 with a dwell reading of 2.1-- whilst idleing but coil three would sit around 2.1 but would then drop right down to 0.4 for a few seconds before coming back up to 2.1ish. So the questions are, what does short circuit to vbatt/over temp mean? I assume that the fault codes and EFI light flashing are connected with the fluctuation of the dwell reading on coil three? Does this mean that coil three is on its way out and that I should order a new one? I should add that the bike is running fine. My main concern is that in two weeks time I'm taking the bike to France for 2 weeks / 2000+ miles and don't want to have coil problems whilst away. On a different subject (although still electrical) can anyone tell me the colours of the tacho feed wire, I have studied the diagram from the Caporider site and in my handbook but still can't find them,I had two coil failures. Both of them exhibited extreme dwell variance.,,,

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