Question about Televison & Video
Check fan number warning comes on and tv shuts itself off every time it is turned back on. I need to be sure I order the correct fan for my Samsung DLP tv (model number is listed above).
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Tv shuts itself off
Look for the computer processor inside the TV. It needs to be cleaned. A can of compressed air will work. The processor is overheating and causing the tv to shut off. Look for the small fan that is supposed to keep the processor cool then remove the dust.
Posted on Jun 09, 2009
I have a Samsung model HL-S6186 since 2006 and one month out of a 5year extended it would cut of by itself. I would turn it back on and it just progressively worse. After looking at the stories on the internet with others who had similar problems, i ordered a new lamp online for $ 56.00 with the same specs. Put the lamp back and found out that there was arching where the lamp connects to the rear. I dissembled everything cleaned the contacts and repaired the one burnt connector on the new lamp with a connector from the old lamp. Turned the tv on and now i got a check fan #1 problem. ordered an exact lamp fan from Amazon.com for $ 15.00. When it arrived i pulled everything apart and replace the fan, still got a check # 1 fan error message. I was able to download a free service schematic that covers the HL-S5086 Tv. After studying the signal flow i pulled out the DMB board and use a cheap multimeter from Radio Shack that had an audible continuity check position. Just to clarify a few points, on the DMD board the top female connector is from the Lamp ballast/Driver, the middle female connector labeled #cn805 on the board says fan # 3, when it is actually fan # 2 for error messages, and the bottom female connector on the board is labeled fan # 2 , when it is actually fan # 1 for error messages. With the DMD board in my hand and checking the continuity between all three pins of the connector, i discovered that i didn't get continuity between the top most pin where the color code is yellow for the the negative signal that the DMD board is looking for when all is working with these tube axial fans. Sure enough i realize that in my disconnecting the # fan connector i must have cause the solder joint to come loose or it must be a manufactory flaw in the process. The other two connections soldered on the board were solid.After shaking the female connector with receiving pins i decided to resolder the whole connector. This could be very delicate. For some reason the point where the # 1 fan signal gets to the DMD processor would not solder right. Not wanting to destroy the delicate $ 269.00 board , i just soldered a piece of earphone insulated fine wire from the connector point on top to the underside of the printed circuit board just before the signal goes to it's first component.I then cut out a 1/4 inch section of the trim metal that snaps on to the DMD board to insure that it won't tear loose my work. I then Check the continuity between the connector pin where the signal comes from the fan and the underside and i got an audible continuity sound. I put everything back together and my problems are solved. I only need to re-adjust the 4 tension screws that surround the heat sink to place the picture dead center. Be careful when you pull on all connectors, ensure that you bend the tabs the tug gently. Hope this helps someone out there. Incidently i have working and troubleshooting this problem for two weeks, in the meantime due to the basketball and the Super Bowl coming i panicked and went out and purchased my first Samsung 59 inch Plasma Tv package deal with a Blue Ray DVD player an glasses. The 2006 DLP Tv is workin great and the picture is much brighter than before. I have an extra new fan now in case the old # 1 lamp fan fails.
Posted on Jan 30, 2012
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